Body off questions
Discussion
I’ve got a car that’s nearly A1 condition ( my own estimation 
) but I fear the chassis is rusty.
Without a minimum of a 4 inch body lift it’s impossible for a specialist to check areas of riggers as body sits on top of them and you can’t even get a thin tool along them properly to check on mine so I’ve decided I have to check and fix whatever I find.
As I’ve replaced much that bolts on to the chassis already I’m expecting to remove and then remount everything without much drama.
So with removal of the four corners/ engine/gearbox and Diff out so leaving me with a chassis and I’ve got chassis repairs in hand so welding etc can be discounted from my list.
What should I be looking at replacing that I’m bound to be forgetting.
Brake and fuel lines.
Bushes.
Cable ties
Bolt kit
Wheel bearings although mine are sound and one already replaced.
Gearbox/Dif mounts
Engine bay and front end had a new bolt kit so don’t need that.
New exhaust tray as mines ratty.
I’m trying to do this on the lowest budget by having as usual good friends around me with skill I don’t possess. I have a mate who will weld gussets and anything I like for small change.
So it’s just what else is likely to cause cost that I’m not seeing.
Advice dearly appreciated.
I always knew I’d bloody do this,,, but it’s the right decision for me and whoever might own it in the future, so here goes
ETA this has come about not because I think I need riggers, more my top chassis rails that run along side the cyl heads and hot exhaust were not protected until about 3 years ago,when I rubbed them down and re painted them as Powder coat had long since disappeared. This is the area that’s the problem.
I can’t see how that can be replaced properly without removing body. One tube that once access is gained will be replaced with an hr or two work but requiring a lot of work to get at it.
I was close to selling the car until this but in my heart always had some doubts and honestly I might not do this again so just completing a circle I started 8 years ago but using my noggin rather than just my cheque book,,,
Wish me luck.
A pic of a nearly car,,,,
I’ve nearly finished it
) but I fear the chassis is rusty.Without a minimum of a 4 inch body lift it’s impossible for a specialist to check areas of riggers as body sits on top of them and you can’t even get a thin tool along them properly to check on mine so I’ve decided I have to check and fix whatever I find.
As I’ve replaced much that bolts on to the chassis already I’m expecting to remove and then remount everything without much drama.
So with removal of the four corners/ engine/gearbox and Diff out so leaving me with a chassis and I’ve got chassis repairs in hand so welding etc can be discounted from my list.
What should I be looking at replacing that I’m bound to be forgetting.
Brake and fuel lines.
Bushes.
Cable ties
Bolt kit
Wheel bearings although mine are sound and one already replaced.
Gearbox/Dif mounts
Engine bay and front end had a new bolt kit so don’t need that.
New exhaust tray as mines ratty.
I’m trying to do this on the lowest budget by having as usual good friends around me with skill I don’t possess. I have a mate who will weld gussets and anything I like for small change.
So it’s just what else is likely to cause cost that I’m not seeing.
Advice dearly appreciated.
I always knew I’d bloody do this,,, but it’s the right decision for me and whoever might own it in the future, so here goes
ETA this has come about not because I think I need riggers, more my top chassis rails that run along side the cyl heads and hot exhaust were not protected until about 3 years ago,when I rubbed them down and re painted them as Powder coat had long since disappeared. This is the area that’s the problem.
I can’t see how that can be replaced properly without removing body. One tube that once access is gained will be replaced with an hr or two work but requiring a lot of work to get at it.
I was close to selling the car until this but in my heart always had some doubts and honestly I might not do this again so just completing a circle I started 8 years ago but using my noggin rather than just my cheque book,,,
Wish me luck.
A pic of a nearly car,,,,
I’ve nearly finished it Edited by Classic Chim on Wednesday 23 May 15:36
Cheers boys, need the humour as I’m close to cutting a fuel line,,,,,,
Thanks Dunc.
Yes engine mounts were new and still sit high, clutch last year so close to what you say.
Heat shielding for engine bay a good one.
As would be some protection of top main rails around engine area.
after seeing a chassis blasted and some of the Tvr welds,,,, I’d do better let alone my mate, he will scream when he sees them
I better start reading up on lifting the body off.
Thanks Dunc.
Yes engine mounts were new and still sit high, clutch last year so close to what you say.
Heat shielding for engine bay a good one.
As would be some protection of top main rails around engine area.
after seeing a chassis blasted and some of the Tvr welds,,,, I’d do better let alone my mate, he will scream when he sees them
I better start reading up on lifting the body off.
My point about requiring a lift is because the body sits almost or actually on top of the riggers aspecially the l/h side right about where they rot near the front.
So a camera inside the tube will hopefully show daylight or holes but if it’s corroded but not gone through as such you’ll reveal nothing.
I like The screwdriver idea and pushing down as that will give me some idea of strength.
I swing from assuming it will all be rottin based on the STORIES of late chassis to thinking it’s probably fine and this is more about knowing what I’ve got. Every test they’ve had from mot men and a good mate it’s always passed but that doesn’t mean much.
If I choose to sell the car I have to be able to say with honestly how it is,,, and that’s without rotten chassis parts.
I’m in a position where I sell the car now and loose a fortune or do the chassis myself and loose a smaller fortune,,,, but fortunes change so maybe a year down the line when I’ve got this done I’ll have no intention of selling it.
The riggers are the riggers, it’s the top tubes I’m more concerned about because that can’t be repaired with body on so with that in mind I’m going to remove front wheels and possibly a manifold to take a proper look and try some strength tests. If it passes that then maybe I’ll get away with riggers or just a re paint.
The camera idea as all the advice above is all good and let’s face it if you have to or wish to sell one without rigger replacement you need good evidence as to there condition.
Ok some chassis are in a bad way,,,,,,, usually the very old ones and I’ve seen riggers from cars around 95/96 totally destroyed so the new chassis old chassis thing is not strictly correct. My late chassis as is another car produced with the white powder coat with 50,000 miles on the clock and just like mine, main sections and top tubes are in good condition and there’s very little if any loss of powder coat. On any car this old now it’s all down to if they had chassis protection long before now.
Infact another 2000 year Chim with similar mileage had what looked like an almost new chassis and no rust on riggers at all. My view was it never hit water but still.
So are we saying every Tvr after 98/99 will have a rusting Chassis.
That’s clearly not true,,,, they all rust.
So a camera inside the tube will hopefully show daylight or holes but if it’s corroded but not gone through as such you’ll reveal nothing.
I like The screwdriver idea and pushing down as that will give me some idea of strength.
I swing from assuming it will all be rottin based on the STORIES of late chassis to thinking it’s probably fine and this is more about knowing what I’ve got. Every test they’ve had from mot men and a good mate it’s always passed but that doesn’t mean much.
If I choose to sell the car I have to be able to say with honestly how it is,,, and that’s without rotten chassis parts.
I’m in a position where I sell the car now and loose a fortune or do the chassis myself and loose a smaller fortune,,,, but fortunes change so maybe a year down the line when I’ve got this done I’ll have no intention of selling it.
The riggers are the riggers, it’s the top tubes I’m more concerned about because that can’t be repaired with body on so with that in mind I’m going to remove front wheels and possibly a manifold to take a proper look and try some strength tests. If it passes that then maybe I’ll get away with riggers or just a re paint.
The camera idea as all the advice above is all good and let’s face it if you have to or wish to sell one without rigger replacement you need good evidence as to there condition.
Ok some chassis are in a bad way,,,,,,, usually the very old ones and I’ve seen riggers from cars around 95/96 totally destroyed so the new chassis old chassis thing is not strictly correct. My late chassis as is another car produced with the white powder coat with 50,000 miles on the clock and just like mine, main sections and top tubes are in good condition and there’s very little if any loss of powder coat. On any car this old now it’s all down to if they had chassis protection long before now.
Infact another 2000 year Chim with similar mileage had what looked like an almost new chassis and no rust on riggers at all. My view was it never hit water but still.
So are we saying every Tvr after 98/99 will have a rusting Chassis.
That’s clearly not true,,,, they all rust.
I’ve not been thinking about it much but have found a few pics from when I rubbed them down and covered them in rust inhibitor. I then painted them white but this is the n/s before.
I’m feeling more encouraged looking at this pic so it’s all down to how the top rails are fairing. I don’t have rust in the usual areas on the riggers and they appear to be quite strong.
I will be using a camera and even drilling the odd hole if needs be because only now I’ve considered selling it do I feel I have to know for my own conscience and for any future owner some documentation to support the claim a standard chassis even a late one doesn’t have to be rotten.
I’m feeling more encouraged looking at this pic so it’s all down to how the top rails are fairing. I don’t have rust in the usual areas on the riggers and they appear to be quite strong.
I will be using a camera and even drilling the odd hole if needs be because only now I’ve considered selling it do I feel I have to know for my own conscience and for any future owner some documentation to support the claim a standard chassis even a late one doesn’t have to be rotten.
Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 26th May 22:51
BIG DUNC said:
They don’t look too sad. All hinges on the top rails.
Yep. Manifold off then. Pita but only now I have serious buyers interested have I decided I have to be sure. I’ve also seen a few cars with good heat protection added in that area so if they are indeed solid then treating them now with added protection should see them last a long time yet when you think about it,,, it’s all in the prep as they say
Thing is I also have a mate who worked on Tvr in the past for a few of the big players back in the day and a few race teams etc so almost want to do it to use his skills while he’s still around, he’s talking of living on a boat
Nothing like a banging Tvr with fresh chassis,,,,,, big job though.
I’m under no illusions as to how much effort that will take.
This mate has made petrol tanks for bikes and mad stuff so welding a TVR chassis.
Chops bike frames up and re arranges them, what a guy and he used to be super fast at down hill mountain bike racing, 40 Laps round the TT course, wheelies in 6th gear, headcase so I’d love him to work on my car
Edited by Classic Chim on Sunday 27th May 08:10
kris450 said:
Hahahah, excellent and thanks Kris I’ll be reading all night now
I should know more over the next few days as it’s going on the jacks and wheels are coming off to properly inspect it.
Wish me luck.
My mate says he has a prodder that finds all rot out,,, he we go!!!
I’ve had a look and I’m more confident than I was a week ago so what will be will be.
Fingers crossed.
Yours is a W reg 450
So is mine,,,,, I’ve just started to read it. Brill I’m hooked already.
I haven’t looked at the body off pics yet,,, I’m to fearful of what I’ll see
Fortune favours the brave and all that... I’ve read a number in the past but your format is great. 12 simple steps by the looks of it
piece of cake 
I’ll let you know if I’m inspired by tomorrow
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 31st May 22:35
Am I the only Tvr owner that swings from total dedication to thinking I should sell it on an hourly basis.
I drove to Powers last week, I left home fully convinced it was time to let it go to a new owner, 15 miles later I’m convinced it’s the best car on the road and I’d be mad to sell it
Imagine if I did have a nice shiny chassis, would I have to spend much on it in the next ten years,,,,, not a penny really if I drive it with care. I’m super mechanically sympathetic and the days of thrashing about.
I seriously want to keep it I know that.
If I add up the cost of a few things I’ve had done it’s way over 15k and the list has only got down to number 4
I decided to stop there for now!!!
A chassis seems like a small detail in comparison although a lot of work.
I’d just like to do it if my back could handle it as I know I’d really enjoy it. Hard work but so satisfying.
Hmmm!
I drove to Powers last week, I left home fully convinced it was time to let it go to a new owner, 15 miles later I’m convinced it’s the best car on the road and I’d be mad to sell it
Imagine if I did have a nice shiny chassis, would I have to spend much on it in the next ten years,,,,, not a penny really if I drive it with care. I’m super mechanically sympathetic and the days of thrashing about.
I seriously want to keep it I know that.
If I add up the cost of a few things I’ve had done it’s way over 15k and the list has only got down to number 4
I decided to stop there for now!!!
A chassis seems like a small detail in comparison although a lot of work.
I’d just like to do it if my back could handle it as I know I’d really enjoy it. Hard work but so satisfying.
Hmmm!
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