fuel pump not priming - search results

[Chimp871]

Need to restart thread due to more tests.

Fuel pump won't prime.

Will work with direct 12v feed.
Ecu and fuel pump relays tested and fine (yes, did try a spare pare of relays)
Relay sockets are ok and blue plug shows 12v for 2 or 3 seconds when immobiliser engaged (85/86).
There is 12v across contacts 30/87
Only getting 7 or 8 v to pump live cable at pump (yellow) and the same to the cable in the connector block in passenger b pillar. Not sure why.... Battery is 12.4v
Fuel pump black wire seems to have good continuity when measured against exhaust (0.2)

So ecu seems to be working as both relays are firing, just don't know why I have a voltage drop.

Any way linked to the stty immobiliser?

Edited by Chimp871 on Sunday 22 July 19:04

[Chimp871]

Cheers, will take a look.

Is the bypass designed to take out the fuel pump relay? Just curious

[Chimp871]

Well thanks to all, this weekend job is lined up.

I'll probably do more multimeter tests along the wires to terminal points listed above before cutting wires, but it gives me plenty to go off.

SteveD - I'll message you.
peneloppeatoppit (ever thought of a shorter username ) - please delete your post , I've noted it down, and agree it needs to go. I've deleted my earlier post outlining fuel relay wiring to pump.

Ps - I secretly hope its the immobiliser as I'm down to only the 1 working dongle to disengage the immobiliser and I've not trusted it for a while.

Pps - have already installed the infamous bypass but is currently in 'factory' mode. I suppose changing it to bypass will help determine if immobiliser is at fault.

Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 23 July 22:59

Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 23 July 23:03

Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 23 July 23:06

Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 23 July 23:09

[Chimp871]

Just wanted to get back on what happened but it all works now

After using the multimeter more and more, it was pointing towards to immobilizer after everything checked out ok including the inertia switch.

So I whacked the immobiliser and presto the pump primed but only then for the car to refused to crank. Another whack on the immobiliser and it worked!

So there you go, I know my starter circuitry very well now and am pleased all is well and the problem isolated.

I'm tempted to spend £350 at abacus and get a replacement alarm system (with boot release) or just leave it and see how I get on.

Thanks to all for their input and help.

[Chimp871]

So did get the abacus alarm kit with boot release and 2 keys around 380 to 400 quid.

It is indeed plug and play and colour coded, basically you can't mess up. Boot release is a 5 minute job, you spend more time threading the wire than soldering it.

At first though the car would turn but not start as the fuel pump didn't prime and thought here we go again. Unplugged and replugged the immobiliser to alarm connection and it started up. The instructions do say to do this last....

Anyway, should have done this years ago and works flawlessly. Nice touch being you do get a new siren and all new cables, I only used the siren cable as the old one near the bumper was looking horrible.

[Chimp871]

i spoke to abacus about this and they recommended to put inside the car as it'll crucify the burglars ears and won't destroy neighbour relations.

So using the new cable I kept it under the dash.