Body lift time

[Jon Brown]

Finally got a garage so time to fix the car, been sat since January when the ball went through the clutch fork.



I knew the outriggers were shot so completed a 2” inch this weekend and surprisingly not that difficult to do.

Usual rot!




Bit scary when the seat belt reel mounts were only attached by some previous body sealant


I’ve now stripped the front suspension to replace a rotten and have the shocks to send back to gaz to rebuild.

Just waiting for the outrigger kit and replacement wishbones to arrive, no powered coat for this home build.

Whilst I’ve got the body raised up a bit any tips for tackling the diff bushes, looks like an evil job?

[Jon Brown]

Also, anyone know what paint is used under the wheel arches?

[Jon Brown]

Amazingly the main chassis is very good, probably where oil has been leaking and protected quite well, it’s a silver chassis and these tend to be a bit better from memory.

Just a few suspension arms to change and tidy up and the ball joints to change.

Definitely recommend doing a partial lift, makes access much easier. Seriously missing the car and it’s supposed to be my wedding car for October so the sooner it’s done the better

[Jon Brown]

phazed said:

Hi Jon. Good work!

I have my outrigger kit and will do mine in a couple of weeks.

I’m not lifting the body but doing it in place.

How about making up some strengthening plates for the seats?

Thought it was about time I got round to it, couldn’t do it outside though.

I hadn’t even thought about seat mounts, might add that on the list

[Jon Brown]

Engineer1949 said:

totally agree with dunk why not get it right off allways something lurking including rusted chassis rails that look good but powder coat has held up and the rail is rusted from within, seems false economy to go that far and not go the extra mile body off shotblast the whole thing recoat, rebuild good for 30 years with modern coatings.


john

I agree, it may seem mad but I want to use the car this year and if I did the complete body off and strip down it would take months for me to complete all of that and I have other priorities at the moment.

This should hopefully be complete in a couple of weeks and can enjoy the car properly for the first time in at least a year.

[Jon Brown]

Managed to get the knackered clutch fork out, quite a heafty hole



Definitely need small hands, had to unscrew the pivot bolt whilst the clutch arm was still connected. Those that have tried might know what I’m on about.

Just need some grease and fingers crossed I can get the new one in, don’t want to have to take the gear box out if avoidable.

[Jon Brown]

The clutch fork was a pain in the backside but managed to get it in and slightly easier than I thought, again my long thin hands made it an easier task.

All the rot has been cut out and new metal welded in, no need to cut any fibreglass but some repairs are needed from previous hack jobs (not mine).

Just some tidying and painting to go





My shocks have returned from gaz after a rebuild as at least one was leaking. Just got to finish putting the front suspension back together with the new lower arms and then it’s radiator and fuel tank after the body has been dropped down and bolt on.

Not the easiet jobs to have done but rewarding...hopefully back on the road in a few weeks time

[Jon Brown]

We managed to lift the body up a bit higher at the front. Just enough to get the torch up in there, but it is tight. I have to admit that I left that bit to my welder friend