emission test failure, 400 pre-serpetine, cat-model
Discussion
pre-mot visit in my garage for testing emissions turned out the following:
engine warm:
2,8% CO, ~800 HC at idle-speed, fast idle (3000rpm) similar values
car is running fine, starts well, pulls well.
for a short test we unplugged the ECU.
after re-connecting, we started engine and Co/HC readings where suddenly quite low @idle...until throttle was opened the 1st time....than readings went up again and stayed high.
car is a 400, pre-serpentine, cat-model, pre-cats removed, ignition-leads and coil are new.
any ideas where to check first?
engine warm:
2,8% CO, ~800 HC at idle-speed, fast idle (3000rpm) similar values
car is running fine, starts well, pulls well.
for a short test we unplugged the ECU.
after re-connecting, we started engine and Co/HC readings where suddenly quite low @idle...until throttle was opened the 1st time....than readings went up again and stayed high.
car is a 400, pre-serpentine, cat-model, pre-cats removed, ignition-leads and coil are new.
any ideas where to check first?
Edited by LLantrisant on Thursday 15th November 13:13
i thought it might be more the coolant temp sensor giving too low readings, hence the ECU thinks that engine is on cold-start?
anyway....i found inside the documentation-folder of the car a rovergauge cd-rom and and USb cable....is this diagnostics tool suitable for testing all sensors`?
the problem is, the car has no registration at the moment, so i cannot drive in a garage to check with a emission tester....now it was just an exemption, as a freind of mine picked-up the car with dealer-plates for driving to the mot-station and pre-mot check in usually "emission" friendly garage
high CO & HC is usually indicating: to much unburnt fuel or too rich.--correct?
feedback for ECU is done by the oxygen sensors --> correct?
anyway....i found inside the documentation-folder of the car a rovergauge cd-rom and and USb cable....is this diagnostics tool suitable for testing all sensors`?
the problem is, the car has no registration at the moment, so i cannot drive in a garage to check with a emission tester....now it was just an exemption, as a freind of mine picked-up the car with dealer-plates for driving to the mot-station and pre-mot check in usually "emission" friendly garage
high CO & HC is usually indicating: to much unburnt fuel or too rich.--correct?
feedback for ECU is done by the oxygen sensors --> correct?
Edited by LLantrisant on Thursday 15th November 19:42
just to clarify: the car is not road legal....so i cannot do ANY test drives nore any "burn the cat-out of dirt" drives.
now back to rover gauge:
went to my car today, searched for the ECU and? it was underneath the dash!!! must have been altered from the former owner i guess
ok....nevermind i thought, but where the heck is this ECU-diagonostic plug no.2?
i can just find the black conector no.6
my car is a very early 1993 chimeara.......than i searched again the footwhell....and i was lucky to find the plug
now back to rover gauge:
went to my car today, searched for the ECU and? it was underneath the dash!!! must have been altered from the former owner i guess
ok....nevermind i thought, but where the heck is this ECU-diagonostic plug no.2?
i can just find the black conector no.6
my car is a very early 1993 chimeara.......than i searched again the footwhell....and i was lucky to find the plug
Edited by LLantrisant on Saturday 17th November 12:25
managed to connect rovergauge.....but there isnt any fault code shown.
but i guess this is due to the fact that i have disconnected the battery b4? isnt it?
if its like that....how long does the engine need to run ntil a fault code may appear.
please keep in mind, i can only run the engine in my home-garage as the car is not road-legal.
but i guess this is due to the fact that i have disconnected the battery b4? isnt it?
if its like that....how long does the engine need to run ntil a fault code may appear.
please keep in mind, i can only run the engine in my home-garage as the car is not road-legal.
Edited by LLantrisant on Saturday 17th November 21:23
ok...here we go.
cold start in garage (winter arrives):
ignition ON, engine NOT running:
engine is warming up (idle):
engine becomming warmer (idle):
engine becoimming warmer (throttle a bit open)
engine now warm (idle):
engine warm but off, ignition ON:
Fault-Codes: None
but se thing seems not ok with1 of the oxygen sensors?
cold start in garage (winter arrives):
ignition ON, engine NOT running:
engine is warming up (idle):
engine becomming warmer (idle):
engine becoimming warmer (throttle a bit open)
engine now warm (idle):
engine warm but off, ignition ON:
Fault-Codes: None
but se thing seems not ok with1 of the oxygen sensors?
Edited by LLantrisant on Sunday 18th November 13:21
at the moment its quite cold here...so takes ages until the fan´s kick-in....and my neighbours are not so amused when i´m reving the car for so long time.
what i can see, with engine at 2000rpm that 1 oxygene sensor is at 6% , the other at 100%.
and the CO & HC readings are extreme high...means the oxygen sensor says "lean", the ECU is giving more fuel...and CO& HC is going up.
in theory this should mean the oxygene sensor is giving wrong info...or am i wrong?
what i can see, with engine at 2000rpm that 1 oxygene sensor is at 6% , the other at 100%.
and the CO & HC readings are extreme high...means the oxygen sensor says "lean", the ECU is giving more fuel...and CO& HC is going up.
in theory this should mean the oxygene sensor is giving wrong info...or am i wrong?
yes...i have the plug- extenders, new lucas leads (no fancy silicon, hocuspocus-internet-aftermarket-raceleads) and new ngk plugs, but.....the car was only started in my garage, multiple times in the past months, but never driven...only just recently pre-mot it was driven n trade-plates for 30km to a local-garage for emiision test and the other day back.
as said, car is NOT road-legal.....all tests/investigations can only be done in my home-garage
as said, car is NOT road-legal.....all tests/investigations can only be done in my home-garage
car has been taken off the road, exported, now in process of re-registrting in his new location.
technically the car passed local MOT, but new reg-documents cannot be issued as long as i do not bring a valid emisson-test certificate, hence car is not road legal and cannot be driven , even 1m, on a public road.... i have now 3.5 weeks left to bring the certificate, otherwise the MOT test will expire and i have to do all again.
back to the car:
i´m still waiting on mr. dpd-man bringing me a pracel with the special socket for removing the oxgygene sensors....and mr. dhl-man a parcel with 2 new oxygene sensors.
temperature sender was changed 1 year ago (invoice found in folder), MAV 2 years ago, but the rotor and cap is also a good advice, as those are the only parts in the ignition system which i havent changed.
technically the car passed local MOT, but new reg-documents cannot be issued as long as i do not bring a valid emisson-test certificate, hence car is not road legal and cannot be driven , even 1m, on a public road.... i have now 3.5 weeks left to bring the certificate, otherwise the MOT test will expire and i have to do all again.
back to the car:
i´m still waiting on mr. dpd-man bringing me a pracel with the special socket for removing the oxgygene sensors....and mr. dhl-man a parcel with 2 new oxygene sensors.
temperature sender was changed 1 year ago (invoice found in folder), MAV 2 years ago, but the rotor and cap is also a good advice, as those are the only parts in the ignition system which i havent changed.
Edited by LLantrisant on Tuesday 20th November 10:59
finally my lambda-probe socket arrived today....changed sensors within 5min...connected rover-gauge and here we go:
when engine is warmed-up and lamda-probes start to regulate, they are "dancing around" zero on both banks...depending on throttle position. long-term trim shows zero.
looks like we have a result? (provided the CO-& HC readings would have improved too, but i can already "smell" a difference on the exhaust)...what do you think?
by the way i checked also dizzy-cap and rotor: they are new (i had them replaced , but didnt remember)
short term
long term:
when engine is warmed-up and lamda-probes start to regulate, they are "dancing around" zero on both banks...depending on throttle position. long-term trim shows zero.
looks like we have a result? (provided the CO-& HC readings would have improved too, but i can already "smell" a difference on the exhaust)...what do you think?
by the way i checked also dizzy-cap and rotor: they are new (i had them replaced , but didnt remember)
short term
long term:
today it was the time for the "offical" emission-test: car passed!!!!
what i want to mention is:
i have thrown-out the TVR-recommended spark-plugs (the ones with recessed electrode) even they had been only fitted since a few weeks & had around 50miles on the clock and I fitted "standard" plugs:
better start
smoother idle
smoother acceleration
in general a more stable engine run
what i want to mention is:
i have thrown-out the TVR-recommended spark-plugs (the ones with recessed electrode) even they had been only fitted since a few weeks & had around 50miles on the clock and I fitted "standard" plugs:
better start
smoother idle
smoother acceleration
in general a more stable engine run
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