Discussion
i intermittently get a very rough running, it feels like i have lost at least half the cylinders, there is only enough power to maintain speed for 1 or 2 minutes, it then coughs for a while before returning to normal.
I would like to check the signal to the injector signals, my understanding is that both banks have a constant 12v and are switched on the negative via pins 11 and 13 on the ECU, if i used LEDs fixed in the dash area so i could monitor then what are your thoughts on how / where to connect, dirrect to the injectors, the switch signal at the ECU, just the negative at the injectors???
One other observation from someone following is that they claimed they could smell petrol during this misfire, could a permantly on be possible and would it flood one bank or semi flood both ???
Interested in any thoughts or experiances others may have had
I would like to check the signal to the injector signals, my understanding is that both banks have a constant 12v and are switched on the negative via pins 11 and 13 on the ECU, if i used LEDs fixed in the dash area so i could monitor then what are your thoughts on how / where to connect, dirrect to the injectors, the switch signal at the ECU, just the negative at the injectors???
One other observation from someone following is that they claimed they could smell petrol during this misfire, could a permantly on be possible and would it flood one bank or semi flood both ???
Interested in any thoughts or experiances others may have had
Hi Steve
Do you see any problem with just connecting directly to the injectors?, I assume my led situation would be off before starting, high speed flash while running, off if I loose the supply or ground,
To monitor for your negative short scenario I guess connecting from injector negative to ground would light up full time if it happened and pulsing during normal operation?
Paul
Do you see any problem with just connecting directly to the injectors?, I assume my led situation would be off before starting, high speed flash while running, off if I loose the supply or ground,
To monitor for your negative short scenario I guess connecting from injector negative to ground would light up full time if it happened and pulsing during normal operation?
Paul
Hi
I looked at the noid lamps, as you say they dont cost much, but also not so easy to use for an intermittent fault that only lasts 1 or 2 minutes, i looked in the engine bay but couldnt see an easy way to connect a lamp, what i could really do with is a male to female adaptor to fit between the injector and its plug and make a connection there, has anyone seen such a thing?, if not then i will have to try at the ECU connector and see what it shows, i have had that all apart last year and checked and cleaned all the pins, but it looked good
I looked at the noid lamps, as you say they dont cost much, but also not so easy to use for an intermittent fault that only lasts 1 or 2 minutes, i looked in the engine bay but couldnt see an easy way to connect a lamp, what i could really do with is a male to female adaptor to fit between the injector and its plug and make a connection there, has anyone seen such a thing?, if not then i will have to try at the ECU connector and see what it shows, i have had that all apart last year and checked and cleaned all the pins, but it looked good
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/WRjV67v5.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/RKPMKcdE" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/RKPMKcdE.jpg)
Thanks Steve, the pin identification is great, not what i expected though, i was thinking that next to 1 would be 14 and the 27 ?, but there is obviously some cable colouring variation on mine, maybe they ran out of the proper stuff that day
Penelope, great, that would certainly do the job, Steve D option would also do it.
Today i have been out for a lot of driving, 200 miles with friends, it first misfired for a very short time after 3 or 4 miles, then again maybe at 50 miles, again at maybe 100 miles, we then stopped for lunch, after this it was running very rough most of the time and eventually full time, it wouldnt even tick over any more, i pulled over and took the ECU out from being tucked behind the kick board and beside the battery to just laying on the floor, started driving for 15 minutes but still the same, stopped at another place for 15 minutes, started up and it revved ok but tickover was rough, asked my wife to give the cables / relays a little kick and started driving again, virtually straight away everything worked perfectly and drove home for another 1.5 hours with no issues at all.
I have tried moving the cables around while at tickover to see if i could hear any change, but nothing, so im now thinking about testing another ECU, my question is that there obviously some very expensive TVR 14 CUX around, or some much cheaper Land rover ones, are they all compatible as long as i swap my chip into it ??
I will show the existing one on the next reply as the photo is on my phone
Penelope, great, that would certainly do the job, Steve D option would also do it.
Today i have been out for a lot of driving, 200 miles with friends, it first misfired for a very short time after 3 or 4 miles, then again maybe at 50 miles, again at maybe 100 miles, we then stopped for lunch, after this it was running very rough most of the time and eventually full time, it wouldnt even tick over any more, i pulled over and took the ECU out from being tucked behind the kick board and beside the battery to just laying on the floor, started driving for 15 minutes but still the same, stopped at another place for 15 minutes, started up and it revved ok but tickover was rough, asked my wife to give the cables / relays a little kick and started driving again, virtually straight away everything worked perfectly and drove home for another 1.5 hours with no issues at all.
I have tried moving the cables around while at tickover to see if i could hear any change, but nothing, so im now thinking about testing another ECU, my question is that there obviously some very expensive TVR 14 CUX around, or some much cheaper Land rover ones, are they all compatible as long as i swap my chip into it ??
I will show the existing one on the next reply as the photo is on my phone
My date code of 0595 looks like maybe it is number 5 from 1995, if someone could confirm that this is how to read the date code and at what number and date they changed to removable chips that would be great, I don’t mind swapping chips when there is a socket but don’t really want to swap round soldered ones.
Hi Steve
I cant really use the new one with the Land rover chip as i guess i cant go for a good thrashing or drive it for a few hours that it normally takes to play up, so i will go for fitting a socket, i have had no luck finding information on how to determine which ecu has a socket or not, a couple of guys have opened them up for me but all are soldered so far, do you know the part number for the socket ??
Paul
I cant really use the new one with the Land rover chip as i guess i cant go for a good thrashing or drive it for a few hours that it normally takes to play up, so i will go for fitting a socket, i have had no luck finding information on how to determine which ecu has a socket or not, a couple of guys have opened them up for me but all are soldered so far, do you know the part number for the socket ??
Paul
Fox TVR430, would you have the external details on the ECU, is it the same as mine thats pictured higher up the thread ?
Steve D, yes it only happens when hot, especially if the ECU is mounted by the battery annd then enclosed with the carpeted section in front of the battery which closes everything in, generally everything works well if i leave the ECU laying on the floor, so i will fit the new one, mount it beside the battery and close it in and go for a long gentle cruise.
Paul
Steve D, yes it only happens when hot, especially if the ECU is mounted by the battery annd then enclosed with the carpeted section in front of the battery which closes everything in, generally everything works well if i leave the ECU laying on the floor, so i will fit the new one, mount it beside the battery and close it in and go for a long gentle cruise.
Paul
Thanks for the thoughts and info all
I have considered the cabling and stripped back all the covering as well as the connector cover, everything looks very good, I have also tried moving it around with engine running as well as getting my wife to do the same while driving, but I cannot create the fault this way unfortunately.
I have also read that all 14 cuz had a socket after a date, but I cannot find it either, also that all TVRs had a socket , unfortunately anyone selling a TVR one wants several hundred pounds more, so I will test tonight on the Land Rover system and see what happens, the only problem being how long to test for as the fault can be very random and I have considered twice before that I had fixed it, first time I found that 3 chip pins were bent over rather than inserted into the socket, second time was after bypassing the immobiliser, both times all problems disappeared for a few months before returning, so very frustrating
I have considered the cabling and stripped back all the covering as well as the connector cover, everything looks very good, I have also tried moving it around with engine running as well as getting my wife to do the same while driving, but I cannot create the fault this way unfortunately.
I have also read that all 14 cuz had a socket after a date, but I cannot find it either, also that all TVRs had a socket , unfortunately anyone selling a TVR one wants several hundred pounds more, so I will test tonight on the Land Rover system and see what happens, the only problem being how long to test for as the fault can be very random and I have considered twice before that I had fixed it, first time I found that 3 chip pins were bent over rather than inserted into the socket, second time was after bypassing the immobiliser, both times all problems disappeared for a few months before returning, so very frustrating
Hi Loubaruch
I fully agree that most faults end up being something basic, but this isnt a sudden dive into injectors and ecu, i have been playing with this fault on and off for the last 3 years since i bought the car, during that time i have stripped down the electrics and connectors as far as possible, replaced some components, tried measuring various voltages or connecting LEDs at various points but its so erratic that i have never been able to pin point the issue, or issues, i also intermittently have a complete cut out which cannot be reset just by restarting, it fires up for a few seconds and then cuts out, but a reset of the immobiliser always sorts it out.
But all through the time it has been very evident that it all works much better with the ecu on the floor rather than tucked away somewhere neater, i have also heard from friends following in Caterhams that there is a heavy petrol smell while having the rough running issue, so i thought a quick swap of the ecu was going to be an easy check, if it doesnt fix it then i simply resell it so no real cost involved
I have also spent most of my life in the troubleshooting game and although i dont generally like just swapping parts sometimes with very intermittent problems it is the only way unless you wait for the issue to become full time, at which point its easy to find and correct, but while i might do 1000 miles running perfectly and then the next run its a complete pig, so any possible thoughts of a better route forward are greatly appreciated as apart from these little occasional gremlins the car runs very well.
Paul
I fully agree that most faults end up being something basic, but this isnt a sudden dive into injectors and ecu, i have been playing with this fault on and off for the last 3 years since i bought the car, during that time i have stripped down the electrics and connectors as far as possible, replaced some components, tried measuring various voltages or connecting LEDs at various points but its so erratic that i have never been able to pin point the issue, or issues, i also intermittently have a complete cut out which cannot be reset just by restarting, it fires up for a few seconds and then cuts out, but a reset of the immobiliser always sorts it out.
But all through the time it has been very evident that it all works much better with the ecu on the floor rather than tucked away somewhere neater, i have also heard from friends following in Caterhams that there is a heavy petrol smell while having the rough running issue, so i thought a quick swap of the ecu was going to be an easy check, if it doesnt fix it then i simply resell it so no real cost involved
I have also spent most of my life in the troubleshooting game and although i dont generally like just swapping parts sometimes with very intermittent problems it is the only way unless you wait for the issue to become full time, at which point its easy to find and correct, but while i might do 1000 miles running perfectly and then the next run its a complete pig, so any possible thoughts of a better route forward are greatly appreciated as apart from these little occasional gremlins the car runs very well.
Paul
I have Rover gauge but don't really know what to do with it, can I record while on a run to see the difference between good and bad periods or do I need to monitor the screen continuously?
I may well come and see you at Loton, its close enough to me that I can hear the cars while in my garden, but I don't think you would be able to lend me the ecu for long enough to test fully due to the inconsistency, but thanks for the offer
Paul
I may well come and see you at Loton, its close enough to me that I can hear the cars while in my garden, but I don't think you would be able to lend me the ecu for long enough to test fully due to the inconsistency, but thanks for the offer
Paul
I have had lamps connected to the fuel pump and coil but didn’t see any issues , I had them taped to the top of the steering column for easy visibility , I was going to connect to the injectors but it’s not so easy to access, I was about to try a couple of weeks ago but couldn’t confirm the pin layout before I needed to drive again , unfortunately my cable colours don’t seem to match the standard, but I will probably do that as well as test the RR ecu
for curiosity what is it about an aftermarket system that makes the improvement, the control itself or the replacement of cables and other components?, i must admit that i can see my loom has had some damage and repairs over the years and i was wondering about whether it can just be replaced?
Paul
Paul
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