Discussion
Hi
I have seen many discussions on proffered ride height, varying between 140 to 150 front and maybe 10mm extra on the rear, mine was setup by a TVR specialist 2 years ago but seems rather low, 112mm front 122mm rear measured to the underside of the outrigger, if I try the finger in wheel arch method I find the fronts are level with the arches and the tears have one finger space, so I guess I need to lift everything, is there an easy way to do this without a ramp, or is it wheel off , adjust, next corner etc and just keep going around and around until it looks good?, this sounds rather time consuming??, also I find that after jacking up the car sits a little high for a while, is it best to just bounce each corner a few times to settle its position faster???
Thanks Phazed, I hadn’t considered rolling it? But one I don’t understand is why there are so many thoughts on the height, I just assumed there would be a tech sheet that gave s definitive figure, is that not the case?
One other thought , as I am changing by quite a considerable amount, do I need any wheel adjustment checks done after??
One other thought , as I am changing by quite a considerable amount, do I need any wheel adjustment checks done after??
I only normally have the weekends available to do such things and at best my local guys only work Saturday morning, so i will go for the Phazed solution, just one thing i dont fully underside is how rolling the car back and forward settles the suspension, surely it doesnt move if the surface is flat ??
Adjustment should be easy as the units are only 2 years old, have a light oil coating and have never seen rain, so hopefully all ok
Adjustment should be easy as the units are only 2 years old, have a light oil coating and have never seen rain, so hopefully all ok
So i adjusted the ride geight today, the advise from Phazed to go 4 turns was a very good starting point, i ended up with between 4 and 6 turns between all 4 wheels and have 140 front 148 rear, i guess that seems a reasonable figure from the multitude of recommendations i have seen and obviously much higher than i had before.
Now on to alignment, i have seen it recommended many times to only go to a TVR specialist for this, but again, is there not a recommended spec that any decent alignment place can set it too?, i just dont have many options for specialists and certainly no one local
Now on to alignment, i have seen it recommended many times to only go to a TVR specialist for this, but again, is there not a recommended spec that any decent alignment place can set it too?, i just dont have many options for specialists and certainly no one local
So I was at my local tyre supplier today getting tyres for an mx5 and asked them who was best locally for 4 wheel alignment, obviously they are, so I asked if they had a set up on the equipment for a TVR, they came back and said yes, I took a look to check and couldn’t see a Chimaera, but a Griff, I guess they are the same, but the data as shown in the pic I took is completely different to the one shown for Mathew Poxon, any thoughts on what is what anyone ???
i have been in touch with my closest specialists but there availability and costs are rather high, £160 for one £230 the other, so i searched for local guys with a Hunter, £65, i asked if they had settings for a Chimaera so they checked and said no, i asked about manually entering them if i gave them but they said that this is not possible, i guess ishould have asked about Griffs or Cerberas, are these the same and ok to use as suggested above??
Hi
I spoke with someone who uses the Hunter system, for the Chimaera the recommend the below
This is different to what Phazed has recommended in some areas, being completely unskilled in this area I don’t know what changes the drive in what way, but I couldn’t completely follow the setup for the Griff as some of the settings were outside the written recommendations, especially the red areas, could someone please help me to understand so I can get this thing set up, it feels pretty bad at the moment at anything above normal speeds, what I would like ideally is an easy everyday normal drive but also feeling confident around the bends at higher speeds on the odd occasion
Thanks
I spoke with someone who uses the Hunter system, for the Chimaera the recommend the below
This is different to what Phazed has recommended in some areas, being completely unskilled in this area I don’t know what changes the drive in what way, but I couldn’t completely follow the setup for the Griff as some of the settings were outside the written recommendations, especially the red areas, could someone please help me to understand so I can get this thing set up, it feels pretty bad at the moment at anything above normal speeds, what I would like ideally is an easy everyday normal drive but also feeling confident around the bends at higher speeds on the odd occasion
Thanks
Are Cerberus settings the same as a Chimaera ??, Hunter suggest the same nominal but different tolerances, also see original TVR recommendations with differences between the Chimaera and Griffith ??
I have no problem with spending the money to have it done right, but it appears that some specialists have very different views, mine was previously set up by one but it was much too low and kept grounding, surely if you have the right spec and the right equipment the result should be the same wether it’s from a specialist or not, or am I missing something??, it’s also practically difficult for me with the specialists due to the distance and lead times involved
Paul
I have no problem with spending the money to have it done right, but it appears that some specialists have very different views, mine was previously set up by one but it was much too low and kept grounding, surely if you have the right spec and the right equipment the result should be the same wether it’s from a specialist or not, or am I missing something??, it’s also practically difficult for me with the specialists due to the distance and lead times involved
Paul
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