Jobs, Progress and Questions!
Discussion
I have made some decent progress on the Chim, and thought I should just keep it all in one thread. I may put a less a "questiony" thread in Readers Cars, but this is a better home for what I have done and what issues I am trying to sort.
Firstly, progress!
I have bled the coolant after fitting the otter switch and both the gauge and Rovergauge are fairly happy with the temps, woo! The fans come on at the expected temp as well.
Also, a full oil change has been completed, not without a couple of boo boos (never actually done it before..first time doing it on my TVR, brave or stupid?), especially getting the wrong oil filter. Thankfully, since I have a Serp, I got away without having to prime the oil pump, even though I had to nip to ECP (in the other car) to get the right oil filter midway through! I did also overfill it a bit, thats what I get for reading the Internet and ignoring the bible, will not do that again!
When the Mrs first saw the car, she said it looked like the batmobile, and since the centre caps on the Imola's were missing and I didn't feel like spending £80 straight away with Racetech to get them, I went a bit rogue..
I suspect not to eveyone's taste, but they are just a bit of fun for now and were cheap.
Finally, I have fitted the new temp gauge sender in the Rover hole but I haven't been able to get it all the way down, it seems very tight etc. I'll need to look at it a bit closer another day, and make sure I haven't been a moron, but it was definitely going in fine and then just seemed to stop.
The main issue though that I am trying to solve (and may have caused another..) is that when I change gear, the rev counter jumps about. I did do some logging on Rovergauge, although the laptop went to sleep part way through the drive (must fiddle with power settings for the next go), but even looking at the logs I did get, what I see on the rev counter is not reflected in the logs.
After some reading, I decided to replace the ignition coil and amplifier, and got a Bosch one with amplifier off eBay to try, and this is where I think I have made an error. Instead of just removing the coil from the bracket and sticking with my current ignition amp, I took the whole mounting off, which mean't I had to undo a bolt on the Plenum to remove the bracket.
Switching the cabling over etc was fine, but when I went to refit it all, the bolt going into the Plenum never tightens up. It seemed to have some sealant/gunk on the thread which I cleaned off, but still, it seems to tighten but then just keeps turning, which also means the bracket for the coil is loose and moves about. I suspect this might have also broken the Plenum seal itself as at one point on a quick test drive (to see if the rev counter was sorted), I got a serious amount of hesitation, but unfortunately this was the point the laptop had powered down and then the hestitation never came back.
I should get the bolt out and take a picture, but at no point did I overtighten it, it just never really tightened up when I put it back. Any thoughts? Am I just being a cabbage and should try harder? I have ordered some new bolts, they aren't expensive so its worth a try.
After I sort this, next job is to get some new tyres, Rainsport 3's (I have 16" Imola's all round), in the following sizes -
Front - 205/50R16 87Y
Read - 225/50R16 92Y
Is that reasonable?
I am also watching eBay for a decent set of the E38 Brembo's, at which point I'll tackle the brake upgrade.
Firstly, progress!
I have bled the coolant after fitting the otter switch and both the gauge and Rovergauge are fairly happy with the temps, woo! The fans come on at the expected temp as well.
Also, a full oil change has been completed, not without a couple of boo boos (never actually done it before..first time doing it on my TVR, brave or stupid?), especially getting the wrong oil filter. Thankfully, since I have a Serp, I got away without having to prime the oil pump, even though I had to nip to ECP (in the other car) to get the right oil filter midway through! I did also overfill it a bit, thats what I get for reading the Internet and ignoring the bible, will not do that again!
When the Mrs first saw the car, she said it looked like the batmobile, and since the centre caps on the Imola's were missing and I didn't feel like spending £80 straight away with Racetech to get them, I went a bit rogue..
I suspect not to eveyone's taste, but they are just a bit of fun for now and were cheap.
Finally, I have fitted the new temp gauge sender in the Rover hole but I haven't been able to get it all the way down, it seems very tight etc. I'll need to look at it a bit closer another day, and make sure I haven't been a moron, but it was definitely going in fine and then just seemed to stop.
The main issue though that I am trying to solve (and may have caused another..) is that when I change gear, the rev counter jumps about. I did do some logging on Rovergauge, although the laptop went to sleep part way through the drive (must fiddle with power settings for the next go), but even looking at the logs I did get, what I see on the rev counter is not reflected in the logs.
After some reading, I decided to replace the ignition coil and amplifier, and got a Bosch one with amplifier off eBay to try, and this is where I think I have made an error. Instead of just removing the coil from the bracket and sticking with my current ignition amp, I took the whole mounting off, which mean't I had to undo a bolt on the Plenum to remove the bracket.
Switching the cabling over etc was fine, but when I went to refit it all, the bolt going into the Plenum never tightens up. It seemed to have some sealant/gunk on the thread which I cleaned off, but still, it seems to tighten but then just keeps turning, which also means the bracket for the coil is loose and moves about. I suspect this might have also broken the Plenum seal itself as at one point on a quick test drive (to see if the rev counter was sorted), I got a serious amount of hesitation, but unfortunately this was the point the laptop had powered down and then the hestitation never came back.
I should get the bolt out and take a picture, but at no point did I overtighten it, it just never really tightened up when I put it back. Any thoughts? Am I just being a cabbage and should try harder? I have ordered some new bolts, they aren't expensive so its worth a try.
After I sort this, next job is to get some new tyres, Rainsport 3's (I have 16" Imola's all round), in the following sizes -
Front - 205/50R16 87Y
Read - 225/50R16 92Y
Is that reasonable?
I am also watching eBay for a decent set of the E38 Brembo's, at which point I'll tackle the brake upgrade.
ianwayne said:
The fronts were 205/60 x 15 on early cars and then 205/55 x 15 (225/50 x 15 on 500s with power steering). I realise you may not get the correct speed rating in these sizes and on my last Chimaera I settled for 205/55 x 15 with a V rating. A 205/50 x 15 may look a bit lost in the arch.
Thanks, but I have 16 inch Imola's front and rear, rather than 15's at the front. However, pretty sure I can get a Rainsport 3 in 205/55 for a 16 rim (they also have a Y speed rating).Would a 55 profile be better? That would mean going to a 55 profile at the rear as well though, since the wheels are the same size.
Penelope Stopit said:
The temp sender may have a tapered thread and won't go in all the way
Yes, I've just re-read ChimpOnGas's thread and realised I've probably over done it a bit, although it definitely worked etc, so will keep an eye on it.The Plenum bolt is definitely more of a concern right now. I need to re-check that bolt, and sort it. I didn't check the fault codes when running Rovergauge (dont ask why, didn't even think about it) but my long term fuel trim, when I got home, was +100% on both banks, which could be all sorts of things but it could be sucking in air from a leak I've created between the Plenum and the base. Going to link up the log I did get and hopefully someone with more knowledge of the 14CUX can take a quick glance.
Link - https://www.dropbox.com/s/6akurowi1eqvfsg/2019-08-...
ianwayne said:
Doh! My mistake not noticing you have 16" front wheels. 205/50 x 16 has only 5m more in diameter than 205/55 x 15. Within the tolerance of wear on a tyre so would be fine.
That said, early Chimaeras had 225/55 x 16 on the rear.
Thanks, thats great!That said, early Chimaeras had 225/55 x 16 on the rear.
Unfortunately the Plenum has been less simple. I took another look at the bolt, and it looks to be sheared off to me, but I can see through the hole in the Plenum, so there is nothing stuck. The bolt just turns though.
What do we think? I'll try one of the new bolts when they arrive, but it seems odd? The bolt isn't threaded either, from what I can see.
In other fantastic news, I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir has a crack in it, and that crack is wet. Googling is indicating a Mk3 Fiesta part, is that right? It looks..delightful, so might pay someone to do that.
Is the Plenum base removeable, is this the trumpet base? While the stuff on the bolt was not thread lock, it looked more like sealant, I am guessing it has been bodged and left in the past so my confidence about the thread in the base is low.
Will see what a new bolt does, but am not optimistic!
I suspect I'll need to add a thread tapping kit etc into my toolbox.
Will see what a new bolt does, but am not optimistic!
I suspect I'll need to add a thread tapping kit etc into my toolbox.
Is it worth replacing the brake master cylinder at the same time as doing the reservoir? The TVR Parts version is £175, but have seen the Fiesta ones on Fleabay. These come with both the cylinder and the reservoir, the cylinder may not be the right one, but can be had for about £40. In that case, I'd just remove the brake cylinder and use the reservior.
Steve_D - Thats a good idea, thank you. I had considered trying the existing bolt without the coil bracket, and honestly not sure why I didn't, but won;t have time to try for a bit now as it is my daughters first birthday and fiddling with cars is not a high priority for certain members of the family. 
I am going to remove the plenum as well, at some point, to check what is under there, since it has likely been removed at some point. Nothing in my paperwork suggests why, but it does have silicone hoses from the plenum to the AFM and then onwards to the air filter. I just need to pick up a gasket set and some sealant etc before I tackle that.
Re the brake reservoir, is it worth changing the master cylinder at the same time? This is apparently the right part - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Master-cylinder-TRW-PMH... I think?
I am going to remove the plenum as well, at some point, to check what is under there, since it has likely been removed at some point. Nothing in my paperwork suggests why, but it does have silicone hoses from the plenum to the AFM and then onwards to the air filter. I just need to pick up a gasket set and some sealant etc before I tackle that.
Re the brake reservoir, is it worth changing the master cylinder at the same time? This is apparently the right part - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Master-cylinder-TRW-PMH... I think?
Thank you! I will be careful on the bolt. My existing one is about 85mm, but when dropped in without the coil bracket it tightens up nicely, although you can feel it coming through the plenum base, so a 90mm will work but might need a little trimming.
The Plenum has definitely been off before, the mesh under the windscreen has definitely been bent up and not put back.
I'll pick up some sealant and get the plenum off and check out what is lurking under there.
The Plenum has definitely been off before, the mesh under the windscreen has definitely been bent up and not put back.
I'll pick up some sealant and get the plenum off and check out what is lurking under there.
ianwayne said:
Looks like you have the edge trim missing off the mesh grill too. You can see it on the right hand side of this photo (not my car, I did a google search!!). Not critical but covers the sharp edge:
Thank you, I hadn't noticed that at all. I can only imagine my engine bay looking that tidy.Any idea on where to get the trim?
New bolt (90mm) arrived yesterday and in an unexpected moment of quiet, fitted it. Now the coil doesn’t flop about, but I made sure not to tighten it too far, mainly just enough to secure the coil bracket.
Simple things make stuff just feel better. I’ll replace the other bolts with nice shiny ones after I have the Plenum off.
Simple things make stuff just feel better. I’ll replace the other bolts with nice shiny ones after I have the Plenum off.
Starting to think I got a pup.
Took it out for a run tonight to drop something off for the wife (a common theme) and as the car warmed up, the hesitation/shunting got worse, until eventually the car cut out and won’t start. The rev counter needle was going crackers as well.
Of course I didn’t have the laptop plugged into it to log it.
Currently waiting for the AA again.
Not the fuel pump itself this time, it primes etc.
Could the replacement coil/ignition amp be causing this? I know it could be a air leak in the Plenum as well so will need to take that off when home.
This is not endearing the car to the wife!
Took it out for a run tonight to drop something off for the wife (a common theme) and as the car warmed up, the hesitation/shunting got worse, until eventually the car cut out and won’t start. The rev counter needle was going crackers as well.
Of course I didn’t have the laptop plugged into it to log it.
Currently waiting for the AA again.
Not the fuel pump itself this time, it primes etc.
Could the replacement coil/ignition amp be causing this? I know it could be a air leak in the Plenum as well so will need to take that off when home.
This is not endearing the car to the wife!
Right, am home. After a while the car started up once she had cooled and I got home. I did notice that now if going to 2k rpm or above, the Rev counter starts jumping and if you keep going, shunting starts.
Am going to check all the plugs (I have replacements to fit so will do that at the same time) and will check the Plenum and AFM. Anything else?
Will plug the laptop in and read the error codes, reset the ECU and give it a run and let it warm up and see what we get as well.
Am going to check all the plugs (I have replacements to fit so will do that at the same time) and will check the Plenum and AFM. Anything else?
Will plug the laptop in and read the error codes, reset the ECU and give it a run and let it warm up and see what we get as well.
Thanks, I have new HT leads (that won't be using the extenders) and plugs to go in, but hadn't thought about touching the dizzy. Will add that to the list.
As it happens, for now, the shunting issue seems solved. I put the new amp on, made sure it had a liberal amount of thermal paste applied and took it out for a drive (with the laptop connected and logging this time, plus all the power settings sorted so it wouldn't sleep on me). Gave it a good 30 minute run, and seems fine, some town driving and higher speed NSL roads, no shunting and drove very well (with a possible hesitation at around 3500-4000 RPM, but it was so slight and happened maybe once or twice I wasn't entirely sure it really happened). I didn't go far, just in case I had to nurse it home.
The jumping rev counter is still present when changing gear (usually up I found), but that doesn't show in the log, so is something else.
Unfortunately, as with everything, one step forward, two steps back. I actually looked at the fault codes this time, and the only ones present were for both Lambda sensors. Since I didn't know how old they were, I cleared them and set off for the drive. The long term fuel trim last time I had the laptop connected seemed high, so I wanted to watch it. 0 for both, the entire drive. Hmm. Short term also didnt move. And yes, the codes are back. Interesting, since the first time I logged it, I was definitely getting info from the lambda's. So that is the next thing to look into, although I wonder if I caused this with the drive last night?
Log - https://www.dropbox.com/s/l68e4w9nd9hki2u/2019-08-...
In any case, once time permits, will stick a multimeter on the lambda's and connections etc, to see where the issue might be.
As it happens, for now, the shunting issue seems solved. I put the new amp on, made sure it had a liberal amount of thermal paste applied and took it out for a drive (with the laptop connected and logging this time, plus all the power settings sorted so it wouldn't sleep on me). Gave it a good 30 minute run, and seems fine, some town driving and higher speed NSL roads, no shunting and drove very well (with a possible hesitation at around 3500-4000 RPM, but it was so slight and happened maybe once or twice I wasn't entirely sure it really happened). I didn't go far, just in case I had to nurse it home.
The jumping rev counter is still present when changing gear (usually up I found), but that doesn't show in the log, so is something else.
Unfortunately, as with everything, one step forward, two steps back. I actually looked at the fault codes this time, and the only ones present were for both Lambda sensors. Since I didn't know how old they were, I cleared them and set off for the drive. The long term fuel trim last time I had the laptop connected seemed high, so I wanted to watch it. 0 for both, the entire drive. Hmm. Short term also didnt move. And yes, the codes are back. Interesting, since the first time I logged it, I was definitely getting info from the lambda's. So that is the next thing to look into, although I wonder if I caused this with the drive last night?
Log - https://www.dropbox.com/s/l68e4w9nd9hki2u/2019-08-...
In any case, once time permits, will stick a multimeter on the lambda's and connections etc, to see where the issue might be.
Edited by Monsterlime on Tuesday 27th August 12:06
Thats interesting, there is a what I presume to be a ground wire attaching directly to the amp bracket (just attached to a screw on the bracket and goes into the connector between the amp and the coil), but is there a better solution, ie should I run one to the chassis ground? When I'm testing the lambda's, I'll test the ground on that as well.
I've checked the ground for the ignition amp, seems fine, very low resistance. I suspect I damaged the previous one when the bolt was loose, oops.
I am waiting on a dizzy cap and rotor arm, and when they show up, I'll replace the plugs, leads, cap and arm all together. I did notice the king lead was not on fully on the dizzy cap so made sure that was snug. I also cleaned up a few connectors (although I will get some connector cleaner to do some of the harder to access ones).
While messing about with the wiring, I found some items that raised more questions!
What are these connectors doing? Is this normal or should I unpick this and simplify it?
What is this? I could not find anything that it would plug into, which seems odd/worrying.
I am waiting on a dizzy cap and rotor arm, and when they show up, I'll replace the plugs, leads, cap and arm all together. I did notice the king lead was not on fully on the dizzy cap so made sure that was snug. I also cleaned up a few connectors (although I will get some connector cleaner to do some of the harder to access ones).
While messing about with the wiring, I found some items that raised more questions!
What are these connectors doing? Is this normal or should I unpick this and simplify it?
What is this? I could not find anything that it would plug into, which seems odd/worrying.
Steve_D said:
First picture is a pair of resistors. one is in the line to the tacho the other is in the line to the ECU. Both are there to protect from spikes in the voltage.
The second pic is the same style connector used for Lambda sensors but I believe in this case it is a redundant connection for aircon compressor.
Steve
Thank you! That is helpful, especially re the resistors. Do you know the type/rating of them? Since my rev counter does jump when changing gear, but Rovergauge doesn't show this, I wonder if one resistor is past its best. I can run the multimeter over them, but may just replace them. Next time I am out there I will take a closer look and see if I can get a part number off of them, they do look identical.The second pic is the same style connector used for Lambda sensors but I believe in this case it is a redundant connection for aircon compressor.
Steve
I'll hide the other connector away for now and tape it up.
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