Trying to fall in love again
Discussion
Hi all, hope your enjoying the fine weather today.
I have been thinking of selling the Chimaera, I took it for a MOT yesterday which it passed, the weather was good so indulged myself in a bit of a spirited drive, and have been out again today, but!
There are 3 things that stop me using it more often, and the reason I only covered 500 miles between MOT's.
1 - When I bought the car, from the charming double act that lied through their teeth, the car wouldn't run after 100 miles and I had to get recovered on the way home, I know, this was the point I should have asked for my money back, but I thought it would be a simple thing so didn't.
It turned out that the ignition and charging system had really been messed about with, anyway, to cut a long story short, having replaced everything at least once the car now runs, and runs well on the open road, The issue is slow speed, traffic, manoeuvring etc. The car shunts so much it removes all the pleasure out of a drive.
2. The cabin gets uncomfortably hot, I have changed the heater valve but it has not made a difference, even the drivers side additional fan/vent seems to blow hot!
3, If I fall in love with it again, a power steering conversion is a must.
My main concern is number 1, so my question really is:
Will a standalone ECU cure the shunting issues, I am looking at megasquirt, I know there are potentially better brands but budget is an issue.
I would want to get rid of the MAF and hopefully the stepper motor. I am handy with a spanner and have a good understanding of wiring, so how difficult it is to go MS, I would get it mapped by a professional. Are there any other benefits of going MS?
As for 2, any suggestions, have I missed something?
And 3, any reports on the Corsa electric column, again how difficult etc.
Any comments, advice or recommendations really appreciated.
Cheers
Frank
I have been thinking of selling the Chimaera, I took it for a MOT yesterday which it passed, the weather was good so indulged myself in a bit of a spirited drive, and have been out again today, but!
There are 3 things that stop me using it more often, and the reason I only covered 500 miles between MOT's.
1 - When I bought the car, from the charming double act that lied through their teeth, the car wouldn't run after 100 miles and I had to get recovered on the way home, I know, this was the point I should have asked for my money back, but I thought it would be a simple thing so didn't.
It turned out that the ignition and charging system had really been messed about with, anyway, to cut a long story short, having replaced everything at least once the car now runs, and runs well on the open road, The issue is slow speed, traffic, manoeuvring etc. The car shunts so much it removes all the pleasure out of a drive.
2. The cabin gets uncomfortably hot, I have changed the heater valve but it has not made a difference, even the drivers side additional fan/vent seems to blow hot!
3, If I fall in love with it again, a power steering conversion is a must.
My main concern is number 1, so my question really is:
Will a standalone ECU cure the shunting issues, I am looking at megasquirt, I know there are potentially better brands but budget is an issue.
I would want to get rid of the MAF and hopefully the stepper motor. I am handy with a spanner and have a good understanding of wiring, so how difficult it is to go MS, I would get it mapped by a professional. Are there any other benefits of going MS?
As for 2, any suggestions, have I missed something?
And 3, any reports on the Corsa electric column, again how difficult etc.
Any comments, advice or recommendations really appreciated.
Cheers
Frank
Thanks for all the info.
I have already changed the advance vacuum from the standard ported one, not sure if this has made a difference really, I have also disconnected the stepper motor when the engine was hot as recommended on a thread here.
How much does ignition timing help with shunting, I have set the timing using a strobe light to the info found here, cant remember the details.
I am interested in the re mapping of the chip, I'm not sure if my chip is removable, I have had the ecu opened to check for dampness, are they all removable? Where can you buy a spare chip to play with.
As far as cabin temps, heater valve replaced and closes correctly, I'm sure its heat soak, but so much of it!
Cheers
Frank
I have already changed the advance vacuum from the standard ported one, not sure if this has made a difference really, I have also disconnected the stepper motor when the engine was hot as recommended on a thread here.
How much does ignition timing help with shunting, I have set the timing using a strobe light to the info found here, cant remember the details.
I am interested in the re mapping of the chip, I'm not sure if my chip is removable, I have had the ecu opened to check for dampness, are they all removable? Where can you buy a spare chip to play with.
As far as cabin temps, heater valve replaced and closes correctly, I'm sure its heat soak, but so much of it!
Cheers
Frank
The car is a 4.0 HC, I haven't checked compression or looked at the cam, but there is certainly no tappet noise so I assume the cams not to bad.
Essentially, is the fuelling an issue with the lucas ecu, if not, is it worth looking at ignition only ecu?
I'm in Cornwall, so everywhere is a long way to travel, lol
Essentially, is the fuelling an issue with the lucas ecu, if not, is it worth looking at ignition only ecu?
I'm in Cornwall, so everywhere is a long way to travel, lol
Is the 435 cam used in the 4.0 HC the same cam as in the 4.3L? I can't seem to find any info re the HC cam.
I can have a look at the cam, shouldn't be to hard to remove the inlet and have a looksee, but would like to at least know where I can get a cam if required before I do.
Would a worn cam actually cause shunting in itself? I have read about the double valve springs being harder on the cam in the HC.
Cheers
Frank
I can have a look at the cam, shouldn't be to hard to remove the inlet and have a looksee, but would like to at least know where I can get a cam if required before I do.
Would a worn cam actually cause shunting in itself? I have read about the double valve springs being harder on the cam in the HC.
Cheers
Frank
Once again thanks for the comments, so back to basics, what actually is the root cause of the shunting, I've been doing lots of research and its tying my head in knots here, lol
Plenum size, smooth bore intake, trumpet lengths, inlet temperatures, cam type/wear, drivetrain slack have all been discussed.
I thought it was simply a combination of fuelling and timing, hence my initial question whether a standalone ECU would cure it.
The car idles smoothly, if I had a really lumpy race cam I can understand low down drivability, but the idle would be terrible to start with. My theory was that at cruise/ low revs the ECU is still delivering fuel and distributor spark but both in either the wrong amount or at the wrong time.
I am prepared to spend some money to "fall in love again" or is it really a case of "they all do that" and apart from spending thousands you have to live with it.
Plenum size, smooth bore intake, trumpet lengths, inlet temperatures, cam type/wear, drivetrain slack have all been discussed.
I thought it was simply a combination of fuelling and timing, hence my initial question whether a standalone ECU would cure it.
The car idles smoothly, if I had a really lumpy race cam I can understand low down drivability, but the idle would be terrible to start with. My theory was that at cruise/ low revs the ECU is still delivering fuel and distributor spark but both in either the wrong amount or at the wrong time.
I am prepared to spend some money to "fall in love again" or is it really a case of "they all do that" and apart from spending thousands you have to live with it.
Edited by Franky boy on Sunday 25th August 14:19
Hi All,
As an aside, I also have a BMZ z4 coupe 3.0 si, a great car, reliable, comfortable, great fuel economy but, soulless to drive.
Back to the Chim,
Been playing a bit today, mainly with the timing. I have retarded this from what it was, 12 deg BTDC to what is showing as 8 deg btdc, I have used a wooden skewer in plug hole 1 and think I have TDC correct, not sure if the strobe is calibrated or not. This was done with the vac disconnected.
Findings: with the vac back on the idle raises a touch and timing advances a bit, now T'd into fuel regulator vacuum. The shunting has reduced to, given what it was, a liveable amount, still worst in 1st and 2nd in town, better 3rd an above cruising at 30 and above.
I'm not sure whether its me or actually happening, but the throttle response seems a bit slower and possibly not pulling as well as its was through the rev range, but of course there is no way of knowing without a RR.
What are the dangers/drawbacks of running this timing, if indeed the figures are correct.
TIA
Frank
As an aside, I also have a BMZ z4 coupe 3.0 si, a great car, reliable, comfortable, great fuel economy but, soulless to drive.
Back to the Chim,
Been playing a bit today, mainly with the timing. I have retarded this from what it was, 12 deg BTDC to what is showing as 8 deg btdc, I have used a wooden skewer in plug hole 1 and think I have TDC correct, not sure if the strobe is calibrated or not. This was done with the vac disconnected.
Findings: with the vac back on the idle raises a touch and timing advances a bit, now T'd into fuel regulator vacuum. The shunting has reduced to, given what it was, a liveable amount, still worst in 1st and 2nd in town, better 3rd an above cruising at 30 and above.
I'm not sure whether its me or actually happening, but the throttle response seems a bit slower and possibly not pulling as well as its was through the rev range, but of course there is no way of knowing without a RR.
What are the dangers/drawbacks of running this timing, if indeed the figures are correct.
TIA
Frank
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