Sc-Power Supercharger kit
Discussion
https://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-supercha...
I am wondering if this kit was still available.
Anyone approached them recently?
They also seem to be shy to mention prices on their website, does anyone know their current prices?
I have a spot spot for superchargers and I am weighing all the options for power increase on my stock 4.0.
The Powers kit looks neat and gibes opportinity to do it in stages.
Can somebody with first hand experience tell me about how useable this kit is in the very basic configuration like no IC / chipped 14CUX / the smaller Rotrex unit?
Thanks
G
I am wondering if this kit was still available.
Anyone approached them recently?
They also seem to be shy to mention prices on their website, does anyone know their current prices?
I have a spot spot for superchargers and I am weighing all the options for power increase on my stock 4.0.
The Powers kit looks neat and gibes opportinity to do it in stages.
Can somebody with first hand experience tell me about how useable this kit is in the very basic configuration like no IC / chipped 14CUX / the smaller Rotrex unit?
Thanks
G
OK, explain me please. It’s a lowish compression engine and the basic kit makes 4-5psi. Ignition advance can be altered somehow on the dizzy, right? Why is it a big risk to run it without further knock prevention/protection? The fuelling if set correctly also can help in preventing knock. I mean che chip can be done the way it keeps fuelling on the rich side in the most dangerous rpm range.
Boosted LS1 said:
I fitted a couple of these superchargers many moons ago. Fabbed up the mounting brackets and fed pressure straight into a holley carb. For 5 psi boost there's little point in an intercooler. I added a really simple water injection system.
I like simple projects, there's no need to make it difficult.
Yes, I was also thinking of Wi if it is absolutely necessary to have some form of knock prevention.I like simple projects, there's no need to make it difficult.
I saw 100+C intake temp on my SC’d Mx5 wwithout IC and constant 30-40C after IC install. The car was running on Megasquirt with knock detection so I could see the difference in maximum timing advance we could apply without and with IC. Also virtual dyno gave some kind of idea of what amount of hp was robved by high IATs and pulled back timing. But that’s a higher comp engine and it was on 8-9psi boost.
The Chimaera is different. I’d never put miles long IC tubes in it’s engine bay, it is just nor right for me. The ICless sc install is compact and somehow elegant what suits to the car. Even at 212 hp the car gives the illusion of effortless performance. It’s all anout that big lump amd the way it does it’s job and the way it looks.
The sound of a blow off valve or a sreaming roots supercharger or the looks of the engine bay with a mix of miles long tubes and blue silicone joiners is something that doesn’t suit to the spirit of the car. Just my feeling, I don’t mean to effend anybody:-)
I know, melted pistons are also mot very elegant but still, I prefer the neat look of the non IC SC install.
The Chimaera is different. I’d never put miles long IC tubes in it’s engine bay, it is just nor right for me. The ICless sc install is compact and somehow elegant what suits to the car. Even at 212 hp the car gives the illusion of effortless performance. It’s all anout that big lump amd the way it does it’s job and the way it looks.
The sound of a blow off valve or a sreaming roots supercharger or the looks of the engine bay with a mix of miles long tubes and blue silicone joiners is something that doesn’t suit to the spirit of the car. Just my feeling, I don’t mean to effend anybody:-)
I know, melted pistons are also mot very elegant but still, I prefer the neat look of the non IC SC install.
....I am going arround in circles.....it’s always the same.
Thank you guys for the comments, I forget Fi than.
The thing is I can’t spend on smaller things until the engine/power thing is sorted. I feel like I spend from the same pocket on not important things while the engine remains untouched and every time I drive the car I dream about more power.
The engine is healthy what makes it even worse as I have no excuse to spend money on it. I’ve bought an MC1 cam kit because I think it is time for a new cam at 76k miles and the dyno result of 212hp confirmed my theory.
Today I looked into V8D engine packages and there are some good deals but some things are not clear.
A 4.6 long block with phantom head, good cam is about 4k
I want to keep the 4 litre capacity because of legal restrictions (I live in Hungary) so I’d go for a V8D built long block with stage 3(?) head and an MC1 or Stealth cam. It can be bigger cc but it must be built arround the 4.0 TVR block.
Can it be done under 4k?
I don’t know how should I calculate the value of my engine? Once the MC1 cam will be swapped in it will produce healthy hp. I am not sure it would be sensible to use this engine as a basis for a V8D build, they sell reconed 4.0 short block for 1.3k, it would be more sensible to have the build made on that basis.
Thank you guys for the comments, I forget Fi than.
The thing is I can’t spend on smaller things until the engine/power thing is sorted. I feel like I spend from the same pocket on not important things while the engine remains untouched and every time I drive the car I dream about more power.
The engine is healthy what makes it even worse as I have no excuse to spend money on it. I’ve bought an MC1 cam kit because I think it is time for a new cam at 76k miles and the dyno result of 212hp confirmed my theory.
Today I looked into V8D engine packages and there are some good deals but some things are not clear.
A 4.6 long block with phantom head, good cam is about 4k
I want to keep the 4 litre capacity because of legal restrictions (I live in Hungary) so I’d go for a V8D built long block with stage 3(?) head and an MC1 or Stealth cam. It can be bigger cc but it must be built arround the 4.0 TVR block.
Can it be done under 4k?
I don’t know how should I calculate the value of my engine? Once the MC1 cam will be swapped in it will produce healthy hp. I am not sure it would be sensible to use this engine as a basis for a V8D build, they sell reconed 4.0 short block for 1.3k, it would be more sensible to have the build made on that basis.
It all sounds sensible but....what do you think robbed that much hp from your engine other than the worn cam shaft? Was it low on compression?
It is not the capacity I must retain it is the engine code (first 4? digit of the engine number) what must be the same or maybe another tvr chimera engine - 450 or 500 - can be legilized in my car if there’s proof that the engine was available for this car. In other words it must be a tvr block from the same model generation.
It is not the capacity I must retain it is the engine code (first 4? digit of the engine number) what must be the same or maybe another tvr chimera engine - 450 or 500 - can be legilized in my car if there’s proof that the engine was available for this car. In other words it must be a tvr block from the same model generation.
Edited by Supercharged5 on Monday 15th February 17:05
My car is the only TVR ever registered in the country :-)
It is also not an option sourcing a complete car 450 or 500 as the registration is expensive (~1500£) and there’s customs from 01 january if I import it from the UK. It would also be tricky to sell mine. It’s the only one here but it’s RHD and everyone echoes the same story about how unreliable these cars were.
Regarding performance expectations and getting used to the next level / always wanting more I know this very well... 10 years of mx5 ownership, six cars, mk1/mk2 NA/Turbo/M45SC/Mp62SC from 110 hp to 240hp and the itch for more every time I half finished the current project.
I don’t want to do it on this car. I’ll make a compression/leak down test and if it says that the engine internals ar OK I’ll have the Mc1 cam installed and that’s all. If something is worn in the head I’ll swap it for a stage 3/4 maybe and leave the bottom part of the engine untouched until it developes a problem or shows signs of wear.
If the compression test shows poor numbers caused by piston/ring/cylinder wear I think I will go for a V8D overhauled long block with pocketed pistons and a good head. Their website shows good options but it’s hard to figure out how much would such a long block cost if I can’t give them my engine as exchange item.
It is also not an option sourcing a complete car 450 or 500 as the registration is expensive (~1500£) and there’s customs from 01 january if I import it from the UK. It would also be tricky to sell mine. It’s the only one here but it’s RHD and everyone echoes the same story about how unreliable these cars were.
Regarding performance expectations and getting used to the next level / always wanting more I know this very well... 10 years of mx5 ownership, six cars, mk1/mk2 NA/Turbo/M45SC/Mp62SC from 110 hp to 240hp and the itch for more every time I half finished the current project.
I don’t want to do it on this car. I’ll make a compression/leak down test and if it says that the engine internals ar OK I’ll have the Mc1 cam installed and that’s all. If something is worn in the head I’ll swap it for a stage 3/4 maybe and leave the bottom part of the engine untouched until it developes a problem or shows signs of wear.
If the compression test shows poor numbers caused by piston/ring/cylinder wear I think I will go for a V8D overhauled long block with pocketed pistons and a good head. Their website shows good options but it’s hard to figure out how much would such a long block cost if I can’t give them my engine as exchange item.
Edited by Supercharged5 on Monday 15th February 17:04
“Here’s a list of the most power the stock engine of the MX5 / Miata can take, reliability depends a lot on the health of the engine and how it’s used, launches or high rpm will kill rods and oil pumps quickly, as well as gearboxes. “
https://bofiracing.co.uk/how-to-keep-your-turbo-mx...
Too much torque at 2.5-3k rpm bends the stock rods, that’s the first limitation on a miata block. An aggressive pulley ratio on the bigger Eaton supercharger (mp62) generates 8psi from 2k rpm what is too much for the rods if the ignition is not pulled back at that rev range.
https://bofiracing.co.uk/how-to-keep-your-turbo-mx...
Too much torque at 2.5-3k rpm bends the stock rods, that’s the first limitation on a miata block. An aggressive pulley ratio on the bigger Eaton supercharger (mp62) generates 8psi from 2k rpm what is too much for the rods if the ignition is not pulled back at that rev range.
spitfire4v8 said:
Exactly so how is that the fault of the supercharger ? If you know the limitations of a system, yet go beyond that, youve got to expect trouble. that's not the supercharger's fault.
This is why things like turbos and nitrous get a bad rep. It's largely the human element that cocks it up.
I don’t blame the supercharger. But it ‘s a fact that an oem Mx5 engine can not produce rod bending torque level without Fi.This is why things like turbos and nitrous get a bad rep. It's largely the human element that cocks it up.
Preignition is always a big danger afaik it causes psiton melt.
Higher power fi’d mx5s usually have some form of knock protection, at least mine had an oldfasioned standalone knock protection device called J&S Ultrasafeguard. It even had a led display to show how much timink it pulls when it hears knock.
It gave very good feedback of what is too much timing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6o0NnDG7lXU
Spitfire4V8 let’s forget mx5s.
And forced induction.
I convinced myself to keep it NA.
If I install a V8D 4.6 (assuming that I can somehow bend the rules and have it registered as a legit TVR engine) what power level can each package give on OEM ECU?
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/l...
I’d go for stage II or III , can these engine versions produce 280hp or lets say good 450 level performance?
If I go for one of these what can I do with my original long engine?
And forced induction.
I convinced myself to keep it NA.
If I install a V8D 4.6 (assuming that I can somehow bend the rules and have it registered as a legit TVR engine) what power level can each package give on OEM ECU?
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/l...
I’d go for stage II or III , can these engine versions produce 280hp or lets say good 450 level performance?
If I go for one of these what can I do with my original long engine?
Belle427 said:
Could you not ask them if they can use your existing block as the base and keep the engine number?
Someone will correct me if I’m wrong but I think the blocks are the same apart from some cross bolting on the main bearings.
The 4.6 should be a very nice upgrade and from what I’ve read and produce close to 300 Bhp.
My engine code is 37A4OP. I must retain it or I can have other TVR RV8 engines fitted if it falls in the same or better emission category but this change necessitates some administration.
I have no idea how could I use an RR block but it’s huge administration work I guess.
It is always an option to build something on the basis of my engine but it is too good to be molested.
The best would be to sell it as a whole and swap in a 450 or 500 engine but I have no illusions... it won’t be easy to sell my 4.0 in Hungary and also not easy to source good condition 450/500.
Selling the car is no option for me.
Actually your engine would’ve been a good option if you intended to sell it.
Someone will correct me if I’m wrong but I think the blocks are the same apart from some cross bolting on the main bearings.
The 4.6 should be a very nice upgrade and from what I’ve read and produce close to 300 Bhp.
My engine code is 37A4OP. I must retain it or I can have other TVR RV8 engines fitted if it falls in the same or better emission category but this change necessitates some administration.
I have no idea how could I use an RR block but it’s huge administration work I guess.
It is always an option to build something on the basis of my engine but it is too good to be molested.
The best would be to sell it as a whole and swap in a 450 or 500 engine but I have no illusions... it won’t be easy to sell my 4.0 in Hungary and also not easy to source good condition 450/500.
Selling the car is no option for me.
Actually your engine would’ve been a good option if you intended to sell it.
Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 4th March 16:12
This would be the logical next step than:
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/war... for 1200£
Or maybe this for 900 if I can’t afford the big valve one. http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/pha...
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/war... for 1200£
Or maybe this for 900 if I can’t afford the big valve one. http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/pha...
Belle427 said:
I went with the Warriors, paired with their cam and 3 stage intake package I was told this would yield 40 to 50 bhp.
Not cheap at roughly £3000 though.
I still think it’s better to put the money into a S/C kit even if you have to wait a while, it’s a no brainier for me.
Huh, it is always FI what seems to be more economical when we sum up all the costs of NA tuning. But it’s tuning and engine refeshment at the same time.Not cheap at roughly £3000 though.
I still think it’s better to put the money into a S/C kit even if you have to wait a while, it’s a no brainier for me.
Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 7th March 07:51
Do you have adjustable pushrods? Strongly recommend them for sporty cams. I won’t falliw their recommendation with the MC1 and I feel somewhat guilty and stressed about it... what if my mechanic sees out of tolerance lash when he imstalls the new cam?
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