Midget Lower Fulcrum Pin

Midget Lower Fulcrum Pin

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Discussion

Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Thursday 16th February 2017
quotequote all
Hi.

I'm in the process of refreshing the front suspension of my '78 Midget.

The lower fulcrum pin is starting to give me a bit of a headache.



It's had several soakings in penetrating oil from both ends.
I've tried a big screwdriver, spanners on big screwdrivers (that have a hex just below the handle) and hammer & punch, but it hasn't budged.

Has anyone here come up with a fancy solution?

I have googled it, but it would be nice to get any ideas from others on here who have experience with this.

Thanks!


Edited by Martin350 on Thursday 16th February 01:51

PositronicRay

27,084 posts

184 months

Thursday 16th February 2017
quotequote all
Impact screwdriver, I take it, it's is a RH thread?

Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Thursday 16th February 2017
quotequote all
Well I'm not 100% sure, but I have a Haynes manual for the Midget (handily came with the car) and there's no mention of left hand thread.

A work colleague also suggested an impact driver today, so I'm about to try that when I get home.

Thanks!

Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Friday 17th February 2017
quotequote all
It seems that this pin is made of some super hard steel!

I tried the impact driver, it chipped chunks off the bit.

I tried another impact driver bit with my impact gun, chipped another bit.

Then I removed the cork seals and with a thin cutting disc in the grinder cut through the pin both sides of the kingpin.
I was going to replace the pin anyway so that didn't matter.



The seized part of the pin, inside the kingpin, was then pressed out. It took around 3 tons at its peak.



The ends of the cut pin left in the suspension arm then have to be removed.
The end with the slot in it unscrewed easily.
But the other end (on the right) has no slot and is more than finger tight, so I'm not sure how this is going to come out yet.


hidetheelephants

24,676 posts

194 months

Friday 17th February 2017
quotequote all
It needs a nut or a bit of bar welded onto it, then wind it out with a spanner or mole grips.

Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Friday 17th February 2017
quotequote all
I don't know how I didn't think of that, maybe a lot on my mind and a bit tired, if I get time I'll do that after work tomorrow! smile




Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Friday 17th February 2017
quotequote all
Sorted! smile


Flying Phil

1,598 posts

146 months

Monday 20th February 2017
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Well done!

Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Monday 20th February 2017
quotequote all
Thanks.

Just got the other side to do now, and that is proving to be more of a challenge!

hidetheelephants

24,676 posts

194 months

Monday 20th February 2017
quotequote all
Job jobbed! smile

AdrianR

822 posts

285 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
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You didn't say if you tried heating it. Often works well - part of the reason why welding studs/nuts on works.

Before reassambling, clean wishbone and examine carefully for stress cracks.

Martin350

Original Poster:

3,777 posts

196 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
quotequote all
I didn't use any heat other than the two small welds, I really must get another blow torch.

The other side has a seized cotter pin which I've not yet managed to shift, and that needs to come out before the fulcrum pin can be removed.

I've read about the lower arms cracking, so yes, they will be thoroughly cleaned and inspected.