My project MGB GT.
Discussion
I've always loved the MGB GT but out of the 50 odd cars I've owned since learning to drive I've never owned one.
I have driven a few B GT's over the years though and it really stood out as a nice drive, so much nicer than the Spitfires I ever drove.
It's a 1969 (same year as me
), chrome bumper B GT with nice wire wheels and in an excellent colour (I prefer this red to the more popular blaze - orangey red colour).
The interior is quite tidy and the body is pretty good.
It does need a little work however but was only £2300 with 9 months MOT & same amount of tax.
I've done a few little jobs already and it's a very satisfying car to work on and simple (so far) too.
The work will be done as and when I can afford it and have the time which is not really an issue as this is a car I intend to keep until I'm too old to drive
I'll update this thread as I undertake more work but for the time being, here are a few photos:-
I have driven a few B GT's over the years though and it really stood out as a nice drive, so much nicer than the Spitfires I ever drove.
It's a 1969 (same year as me
), chrome bumper B GT with nice wire wheels and in an excellent colour (I prefer this red to the more popular blaze - orangey red colour).The interior is quite tidy and the body is pretty good.
It does need a little work however but was only £2300 with 9 months MOT & same amount of tax.
I've done a few little jobs already and it's a very satisfying car to work on and simple (so far) too.
The work will be done as and when I can afford it and have the time which is not really an issue as this is a car I intend to keep until I'm too old to drive
I'll update this thread as I undertake more work but for the time being, here are a few photos:-
Edited by Kentish on Tuesday 14th April 23:48
I've been having trouble starting the B regardless of whether it is hot or cold.
So, I took a look at the B tonight and the choke is all working fine and I set the carbs fast idle correctly to around 850 rpm, it was set too high at 1200 rpm but once set correctly I noticed the car is hunting indicating a rich mixture. I need to check the workshop manual for the correct idle setting as 850 was a guess. I wound it up slightly to just under 1000 rpm and the idle is a lot smoother with no hunting.
The K&N twin air filters look quite dirty so I'm going to replace those.
The carbs appear to be in quite good condition with no play in the linkages to speak of and I gave them a thin coating with lithium grease followed by a liberal coating of silicone spray to get everything nice and smooth and free and it all seems OK.
I'm not going to mess with the carbs too much now the idle speed is OK.
I'll first go through making sure the correct distrubutor cap, rotor arm, points, condensor, plugs, coil and ballast & leads are fitted. I'm also going to check all chassis earths and also the live connections between battery and starter etc - just to make sure.
I took the broken bakelite steering wheel off too and replaced it with a new Mountney leather wheel and new boss. The only trouble was the horn button and connections were completely different between each wheel so I had to fabricate a new push system and connector to fit into the new horn push with an adjuster stud screwed into the push and then adjust that until the push made contact with the stud (used a continuity tester on a mutimeter to check this), once in place the stud would make contact with the sprung connector coming up through the column which appeared to have a circlip missing so I made a new retainer from a fibre washer which worked well. I cleaned the paint off the inside of the boss where the horn push side contact is located and bent the side contact out slightly to obtain a tighter fit. Popped the horn push into place and connected the horn up, pressed the new horn push and perfect, I have a working horn again!
One job down
Then I noticed a leaking rear wheel cylinder
It's only to be expected on a 40 year old car that's maybe done 3k miles in the past 6 years. And I'm having fun, I got a real buzz out of making the connector up for the horn and it all working perfectly - only a small thing I know but really satisfying when you make up your own parts
So, I took a look at the B tonight and the choke is all working fine and I set the carbs fast idle correctly to around 850 rpm, it was set too high at 1200 rpm but once set correctly I noticed the car is hunting indicating a rich mixture. I need to check the workshop manual for the correct idle setting as 850 was a guess. I wound it up slightly to just under 1000 rpm and the idle is a lot smoother with no hunting.
The K&N twin air filters look quite dirty so I'm going to replace those.
The carbs appear to be in quite good condition with no play in the linkages to speak of and I gave them a thin coating with lithium grease followed by a liberal coating of silicone spray to get everything nice and smooth and free and it all seems OK.
I'm not going to mess with the carbs too much now the idle speed is OK.
I'll first go through making sure the correct distrubutor cap, rotor arm, points, condensor, plugs, coil and ballast & leads are fitted. I'm also going to check all chassis earths and also the live connections between battery and starter etc - just to make sure.
I took the broken bakelite steering wheel off too and replaced it with a new Mountney leather wheel and new boss. The only trouble was the horn button and connections were completely different between each wheel so I had to fabricate a new push system and connector to fit into the new horn push with an adjuster stud screwed into the push and then adjust that until the push made contact with the stud (used a continuity tester on a mutimeter to check this), once in place the stud would make contact with the sprung connector coming up through the column which appeared to have a circlip missing so I made a new retainer from a fibre washer which worked well. I cleaned the paint off the inside of the boss where the horn push side contact is located and bent the side contact out slightly to obtain a tighter fit. Popped the horn push into place and connected the horn up, pressed the new horn push and perfect, I have a working horn again!
One job down
Then I noticed a leaking rear wheel cylinder
It's only to be expected on a 40 year old car that's maybe done 3k miles in the past 6 years. And I'm having fun, I got a real buzz out of making the connector up for the horn and it all working perfectly - only a small thing I know but really satisfying when you make up your own parts
wildoliver said:
The wheel cylinder is a simple job on the b.
Don't waste your money replacing the KNs, just wash out in petrol and re-oil, you will be surprised how much rubbish comes out.
Bs should be easy starting engines, if they don't it is (provided the carbs have fuel in and the engine is turning over at anything more than a crawl) always ignition and usually the points being dirty. If it doesn't start at all then it's normally the condenser but in 15 years of MGB ownership I've only had it once.
Clean the points, scrape the fur off the pegs inside the dizzy cap, polish the top of the rotor arm (where the centre point connects) with a bit of emery (don't polish the end though that goes to the pegs just gently scrape with the end of a screwdriver, only if really dirty, you don't want to be taking any metal off. The check the leads are clean and making good contact, clean and gap the plugs and make sure the terminals are tight on the end.
It should then start up easily.
That's great, thanks for the info - this will be my first area to check out.Don't waste your money replacing the KNs, just wash out in petrol and re-oil, you will be surprised how much rubbish comes out.
Bs should be easy starting engines, if they don't it is (provided the carbs have fuel in and the engine is turning over at anything more than a crawl) always ignition and usually the points being dirty. If it doesn't start at all then it's normally the condenser but in 15 years of MGB ownership I've only had it once.
Clean the points, scrape the fur off the pegs inside the dizzy cap, polish the top of the rotor arm (where the centre point connects) with a bit of emery (don't polish the end though that goes to the pegs just gently scrape with the end of a screwdriver, only if really dirty, you don't want to be taking any metal off. The check the leads are clean and making good contact, clean and gap the plugs and make sure the terminals are tight on the end.
It should then start up easily.
I have a new dizzy cap and a rotor arm and I think I noticed a new set of points in a box too.
I do also suspect the fuel pump, the contact points in that failed when I test drove the car before purchase (a locating pin had fallen out). They are quite expensive (£75 - £130) depending on the supplier and make.
I'll order one at the same time I get the rear wheel cylinder (which are only £9.50)!
Thanks Nigel.
Yes, I will replace all ignition parts and the fuel pump I saw earlier from mgpartsuk was a good price and electronic with no points, much better!
I mentioned in an earlier post about the battery connections and earthing points, although I think they are all OK as I have no other symptoms of these being poor (headlights, heater blower etc are all very good and do not dim when other items are switched on).
I'm also planning to fit a lumenition kit before too long.
Spares are so cheap I may even fit a new pair of SU HS4 carbs!
Likewise, front and rear brakes can be completely replaced and upgraded for £250, it'd be daft not to!
Yes, I will replace all ignition parts and the fuel pump I saw earlier from mgpartsuk was a good price and electronic with no points, much better!
I mentioned in an earlier post about the battery connections and earthing points, although I think they are all OK as I have no other symptoms of these being poor (headlights, heater blower etc are all very good and do not dim when other items are switched on).
I'm also planning to fit a lumenition kit before too long.
Spares are so cheap I may even fit a new pair of SU HS4 carbs!
Likewise, front and rear brakes can be completely replaced and upgraded for £250, it'd be daft not to!
That's pretty good considering the whole dizzy is replaced too.
I think that will be on my list then.
There's a Lucas brake disc upgrade available for the MGB, grooved and drilled so I'll probably go for those - they come in a kit with new calipers and goodridge stainless hoses and EBC greenstuff pads.
I'm also going to get the rear brake overhaul kit as its only £35 more than a pair of wheel cylinders but comes as a complete set of springs clips and fittings, 2x rear wheel cylinders and a set of rear shoes. I'll also get a new set of rear drums. I may as well get a new master cylinder and reservoir whilst I'm at it!
I think that will be on my list then.
There's a Lucas brake disc upgrade available for the MGB, grooved and drilled so I'll probably go for those - they come in a kit with new calipers and goodridge stainless hoses and EBC greenstuff pads.
I'm also going to get the rear brake overhaul kit as its only £35 more than a pair of wheel cylinders but comes as a complete set of springs clips and fittings, 2x rear wheel cylinders and a set of rear shoes. I'll also get a new set of rear drums. I may as well get a new master cylinder and reservoir whilst I'm at it!
Hi Nigel;
Yes, I appreciate what you are saying but i think lack of use has done the brakes no favours.
They have improved slighty with use but I don't want to leave them as they are as they don't have enough bite and i have the leaking rear wheel cylinder and it is one part of the car that has not had a great deal of attention by the look of the brake components.
I do make allowances for lack of servo and for braking distance but other people, particularly the enormous amount of people who see it as normal to pull out in front of you on roundabouts and also pedestrians are an issue with the brakes as they are. Brakes are not an area to economise on IMHO.
The prices for upgrade kits are so good I thought I may as well go the whole 9 yards with them straight off. The second areas of attention will be to get the ignition & fuel pump sorted so that the B starts 1st time every time and the stainless exhaust adjusted which knocks on the rear damper.
Other than these things, i can't see why I wouldn't be able to use the B every day - everything else seems nice and as it should be.
I do want to get a coat of POR15 on the underside and then some waxoil before the winter.
Yes, I appreciate what you are saying but i think lack of use has done the brakes no favours.
They have improved slighty with use but I don't want to leave them as they are as they don't have enough bite and i have the leaking rear wheel cylinder and it is one part of the car that has not had a great deal of attention by the look of the brake components.
I do make allowances for lack of servo and for braking distance but other people, particularly the enormous amount of people who see it as normal to pull out in front of you on roundabouts and also pedestrians are an issue with the brakes as they are. Brakes are not an area to economise on IMHO.
The prices for upgrade kits are so good I thought I may as well go the whole 9 yards with them straight off. The second areas of attention will be to get the ignition & fuel pump sorted so that the B starts 1st time every time and the stainless exhaust adjusted which knocks on the rear damper.
Other than these things, i can't see why I wouldn't be able to use the B every day - everything else seems nice and as it should be.
I do want to get a coat of POR15 on the underside and then some waxoil before the winter.
SB - Nigel said:
Don't want to put you off too much but I just found this in my wanderings Drilled/grooved discs
Fresh high temp brake fluid seems to be the order of the day here
This kit is drilled but not on vented discs which I know can crack.Fresh high temp brake fluid seems to be the order of the day here
I've not heard of drilled solid discs cracking but that doesn't mean to say that they won't - Pete (GreenV8S) is someone I know to be very knowledgable from my TVR-S days.
I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.
I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.
SB - Nigel said:
Kentish said:
SB - Nigel said:
. . . my TVR-S days.
another fun car Kentish said:
I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.
SB - Nigel said:
but, but yours is going to be in daily use
To a point; I won't take it out in the winter on salty roads and I'll minimise the amount of times the car sees rain - unless it rains whilst I'm out of course Kentish said:
I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.
SB - Nigel said:
other have used this source http://stores.ebay.co.uk/sportbrakediscs apparently you email for those not listed
Thanks for that, I'll give him a try - see whether he has any grooved only discs for a B.One thing I'm struggling to find are a complete matching set of black leather seats, I'm after some with red piping if i can find some. I have seen them from different suppliers but none so far offer both front and rear and the different suppliers seats don't match. I'll probably end up rebuilding the ones I have since I've seen the covers and foam kits for both front and rear from the same supplier but they are quite expensive, not much less than exhange reupholstered items!
SB - Nigel said:
SB - Nigel said:
but, but yours is going to be in daily use
Kentish said:
To a point; I won't take it out in the winter on salty roads and I'll minimise the amount of times the car sees rain - unless it rains whilst I'm out of course
each to there own . . .not taking it out on saltly roads fair enough (but that's not a daily runner then) and oh, dear, not taking it out in the rain fits you exactly into the bright red, wire wheels MG stereotype :shakeheadsmiley:
Enjoy your car
Just remember to raise and rotate your wheels and to free off your clutch and brakes every spring (subject to weather) - just joking, calm down all
Different horses, different courses, as long as you enjoy yourself and harm no one else go for it
A car is to use and enjoy but I would like to get some under body protection on before the winter.
I should imagine the B is quite good in snow with those narrow tyres
I'm not likely to use it on icy roads though, I know all the bits are available but I'd rather keep it damage free and use my other car in winter, it's better equipped for it with 4WD and a galvanised body.
You can't drive 2 cars at the same time though so I'm being sensible about how to best preserve the B whilst getting the most out of it and my other car too.
They are both fun to drive but in different ways, so a lot depends on my mood and the weather. For that very reason the B is likely to get more use (eventually) in poorer weather because it is a hard top car.
I may sell the hard top off my audi, or not fit it that often as the 2 cars do overlap in functionality a bit, although the MGB has more room in it (believe it or not)
It'll depend, it was sunny this weekend and I took the MGB out in favour of the Audi with the roof down. I just felt like it, I wanted the feel of a 60's sprts car and a burbly exhaust note - despite it leaking brake fluid and a disconcerting clunk everytime I take up drive or lift off the throttle and the fact that it's a pig to start at the moment, I still picked up the keys to the B and had a smile on my face as the scenery rolled past.
Did you get your copy of Octane this month?
Loads on the MGB in it and one of the staff cars is a B (rolling resto).
ahockley said:
Looks great - although I'm a little biased! I'm a tiny bit worried that you've gone and knicked mine from my garage - it's identical:
That looks lovely, I hope to get mine as mint as yours oneday!
Mine was a little neglected by the past owner so I just want to give it some TLC to get it back up to a really nice standard. It's not at all bad but does need a little fettling.
A few weekends work will see all mechanical issues resolved and then I just need to do a few cosmetic bits.
ahockley said:
Pictures can be deceiving.. it's far from perfect - in desperate need of an engine rebuild at the moment. Improving and slowly fixing bits and pieces is exactly what I love about owning an old car. Oh, and the noise it makes...
I'm constantly amazed at how reasonable parts are for the B.An exchange recon engine from one of the specialists is only in the region of £800.
Not bad!
I have a bit of a clunk underneath on acceleration and on lifting off which I believe is either propshaft or rear axle or possibly a bit of both.
A new rear diff is a very reasonable £200.
The propshaft was silly cheap too.
I'm currently thinking about going through much of the mechanicals and replacing as much as I can where it is worn, pretty much make it a complete restoration if I can.
ahockley said:
I had that problem.. mine was worn splines on the wires and the hubs, not propshaft or halfshafts. An expensive problem sadly as it required 4 new wires and four hubs.. You could hear a clunk from each corner as you accelerated / deccelerated. Easy to test - Jack up a wheel , brakes on and see if it has a bit of play - mine moved about 1cm at the tire.. quite worn!!
Was that rotational play and not side to side (like a worn hub bearing)?I'll have to check that out.
I'm sure some of the noise is also the exhaust hitting the rear telescopic damper (it's not on the original lever arm dampers), plus it runs really close in other places.
But I think you could be right about the wheels too as there's more than one type of clunk going on and it's always when you put your foot down and lift off.
I had a check of the prices and I think I saw that the replacement wire wheels are around £215 each plus the price of the hubs of course - I think it would be over £1k to replace them
Are the hubs easy to replace?
I wonder whether it would be worth me going for a nice set of 15" minilites instead if my hubs and wire wheel splines are worn?
Edited by Kentish on Tuesday 21st April 22:46
Thanks, I'm going to check them out for play tonight.
I'm not sure whether I have converted splined hubs fitted or whether mine would have had the wires as standard, it's a 1969 car like yours.
How can I tell, do the splined hub conversions bolt to the original bolted type hubs or do they replace them?
I'm not sure whether I have converted splined hubs fitted or whether mine would have had the wires as standard, it's a 1969 car like yours.
How can I tell, do the splined hub conversions bolt to the original bolted type hubs or do they replace them?
OK thanks.
I was having a look at Moss, MGOC, MGParts, mgandmidgetparts sites last night and I could only see bolt hub to splined hub conversion kits, I guess most people will want to go from bolt on later type to earlier splines with wire wheels.
I believe the rear axle was different between splined and bolt on wheel types, hence the need to convert the hubs and I suppose if you are going the other way (to bolt on wheels) it could mean replacing the half shalfs to match. I imagine the front is purely a case of changing the hub assembly.
Uhhm, I'm not sure which way to go with this now??
First step is to check them out later and see whether this is the issue I have but from what you have said, it sounds like I may have the same issue.
I was having a look at Moss, MGOC, MGParts, mgandmidgetparts sites last night and I could only see bolt hub to splined hub conversion kits, I guess most people will want to go from bolt on later type to earlier splines with wire wheels.
I believe the rear axle was different between splined and bolt on wheel types, hence the need to convert the hubs and I suppose if you are going the other way (to bolt on wheels) it could mean replacing the half shalfs to match. I imagine the front is purely a case of changing the hub assembly.
Uhhm, I'm not sure which way to go with this now??
First step is to check them out later and see whether this is the issue I have but from what you have said, it sounds like I may have the same issue.
Thanks for that, I'll check on the shape of the splines too.
I guess for longevity the regular bolt on type of hubs are better but as you, I prefer the wire wheels.
The only issue is that the hub and wheel are highly unlikely to have the same grade and maybe not even the same type of metal so one will always wear the other.
I guess for longevity the regular bolt on type of hubs are better but as you, I prefer the wire wheels.
The only issue is that the hub and wheel are highly unlikely to have the same grade and maybe not even the same type of metal so one will always wear the other.
Yep, it's the hubs!
I jacked the car and only checked the one wheel but it had a similar amount of free play as you mentioned yours had.
I'll check them out properly in due course to see whether they are all like it.
Shame as this will hit the budget a bit and prevent me from replacing the carpets and re-upholstering all the seats for a while.
Oh well, Rome wasn't built in a day!
I jacked the car and only checked the one wheel but it had a similar amount of free play as you mentioned yours had.
I'll check them out properly in due course to see whether they are all like it.
Shame as this will hit the budget a bit and prevent me from replacing the carpets and re-upholstering all the seats for a while.
Oh well, Rome wasn't built in a day!
Hi guys;
Colours are really difficult to see on a forum, my car looks quite orange in the photos here and my profile but it's not at all orange and much more of a red.
Your B and midget both look terrific!
The midget looks in the photo quite similar to the colour of my car but I'm sure mine is probably the same colour as Alistairs car.
Yes, I'll keep you posted on progress; I have a big birthday next week and I think some of the family are buying me some interior parts for the B
Colours are really difficult to see on a forum, my car looks quite orange in the photos here and my profile but it's not at all orange and much more of a red.
Your B and midget both look terrific!
The midget looks in the photo quite similar to the colour of my car but I'm sure mine is probably the same colour as Alistairs car.
Yes, I'll keep you posted on progress; I have a big birthday next week and I think some of the family are buying me some interior parts for the B
Hi Nigel;
Thanks, yes I'll wait for a while until I fit the carpets.
I plan to accumulate the parts (carpet set, panel set, seat foams and new covers, centre armrest, dash panel & switches etc) and then work through from the carpets and soundproofing upwards.
I couldn't get your link to work, is it related to the heater pipework and matrix?
I had an split hose in the engine bay for the heater which I replaced as soon as I picked the car up but other than that the heater is terrific and the controls even do what they are supposed to do!
Thanks, yes I'll wait for a while until I fit the carpets.
I plan to accumulate the parts (carpet set, panel set, seat foams and new covers, centre armrest, dash panel & switches etc) and then work through from the carpets and soundproofing upwards.
I couldn't get your link to work, is it related to the heater pipework and matrix?
I had an split hose in the engine bay for the heater which I replaced as soon as I picked the car up but other than that the heater is terrific and the controls even do what they are supposed to do!
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