SR8 questions

[parsonsj]

I have some newbie questions about my 2007 SR8 (chassis #42)

My SR8 is an 07 model with the RPB -- is the engine start procedure the same as the 2006 model? (I have found a 2006 Owner's Manual.)

My brake line plumbing is entirely flex lines (as opposed to mostly hard lines with flex lines only for accommodating chassis movement). Is that normal?

I see a connector inside the left front wheel well. Anybody know what it is?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

jp

[parsonsj]

Thanks much for the response.

You're right: the brake lines are braided flex lines (Goodridge, I think). I've not seen that done on a whole car before.

Bummer on no manual. I'm lost on basic things, like where are the batteries? I want to put an externally accessible battery connector so I can keep them charged in the pits, and also while the car is in storage. The car also seems to have a video data recorder tucked under the bodywork on the right side of the car.

The connector in the wheel well has 12 pins... No idea what it might be.

[parsonsj]

Yes, it seems the connector was for the front lights. I pulled the front bodywork off and found the front light harness was tucked up inside.

So that's one mystery solved. I also found a connector for charging the battery under the left side belt-line.

Here's another question: I found a connector



It's not connected to anything, and the label says "CAM". There's also a connector on the back of the left head that isn't connected to anything. Anybody know anything about this? The engine runs...

thanks!

[parsonsj]

Thanks Dan!

I called Jesse at Spring Mountain Racing (nee Radical West), and he said could cobble together some connectors for me to connect the cam sensor to the harness.

I understand the notion of 720 vs 360 and the role the cam sensor plays. I'm wondering if I'll need an upgraded engine map / strategy / tune if I connect it.

[parsonsj]

Ok, here's my next question: what kind of battery does the car have? I think I've got a 12v setup, but is it lithium-ion? AGM? lead-acid? What would be the battery that Radical would have put in the car?

thanks!

[parsonsj]

Thanks again, and here's my next question :

How can I access the front of the engine? Can one pull the seats and firewall to get to there?

thanks!

John

[parsonsj]

Hi Dan,

I've discovered that the ECU isn't seeing oil pressure. All the engine logs show 0 pressure, while the dash logs show oil pressure right about where it should be. So I'm trying to figure out what's going on, and get my eyes on the oil pressure senders, which I think are upfront on the scavenge pumps.

[parsonsj]

I think this is the oil pressure sensor, and it's connected to the dash. The black unconnected lead (with a label of "OIL PRESS") isn't connected to anything.

[parsonsj]

That sensor is for the MXL dash, and I need another sensor for the ECU.

Seems like the Radical sensor looks a lot like a VDO 10 bar sensor. Anybody know if that's actually the case?

[parsonsj]

I disconnected the sensor from the dash, and connected the sensor to the ECU. Voila! Oil pressure is seen by the ECU, and at about the same numbers. I've got a VDO 360-004 sensor on its way -- it's the same 10-180 ohm range sensor, but with a normal ground (earth), rather than the floating ground as used by the pictured VDO 360-430.

Once I have both sensors connected I'll be able to compare the numbers and see if there's any significant differences. And if all goes well I'll be able to upgrade to later tunes that use low oil pressure trips to help safeguard the engine.

[parsonsj]

Yes, thanks for the follow up: the oil pressure is sorted. I removed one of the NPT plugs and put the VDO sensor in its place and connected it to the ECU loom. While I was there I bolted the Radical oil pressure manifold to the chassis (it was just zip-tied to the negative battery cable before).

Now I have dual oil pressure sensors -- one feeding the AIM system, and one feeding the ECU. A quick test showed both within reasonable range to the other. I need to run the car a bit to gather some running data to compare them directly.

I'll do that once I get the rest of the wiring sorted. The radiator fan was direct connected -- no switch, no fuse, no relay. I'm also adding an AIM memory key and a GPS sensor to the data gathering kit. It's coming together now. I'm wondering if I can make the US Radical event at Sebring in a couple of weeks.

[parsonsj]

So for my next question:

Has anybody ever removed and replaced the windshied/dash cover? I pulled mine off for access to the behind the dash wiring, and it's time to put it back on. It's obviously been off and on a couple of times based on the several layers of silicon sealant I've just spent hours removing from both surfaces.

The original sealant seems to have been urethane-based. I'm wondering if I really need sealant at all -- it would be much easier for future maintenance if I could remove it quickly.

thanks!

[parsonsj]

And another question: is it normal for these motors (SR8 / RPB) to leak oil past the main studs? I've washed them off with brake clean a couple of times, but several of them are dripping wet with oil a couple of days later.

[parsonsj]

And yet another question: is there any way to know if I have a standard or a wide seat?

Is there a measurement or a tell-tale of some sort?

I'm hopeful I've got a standard seat and can get some relief with a wide(r) seat.

[parsonsj]

I talked with Jim at Wisko Racing in Virginia. He confirms that my seat is the standard size and is checking with Radical about a wider model.

[parsonsj]

OK, I've got both seats now, the wide and a standard. The wide fits my 57 yr old body much better, and I'm heading to Atlanta next month to get an EIS seat insert made for it.

[parsonsj]

Next question: How does one strap these cars to a trailer? Wheel nets?

Or do you use the hub adapters?

thanks!

[parsonsj]

Trev, that's most helpful! Thanks very much.

John

[parsonsj]

I've (finally) got the car running. With the cam sensor connected, the engine does go into 720 mode. Well, it does when one gets the pins in the proper ports, anyway. All good there.

My last track day generated an enormous engine oil leak, and I think my "main stud" leak was this too. I think I've got a crack in the crank case cover (not sure of the correct term) where pressurized oil exiting the filter goes into the engine block. Anybody seen this before?

[parsonsj]

Unfortunately, it seems clear that this will require an engine disassembly to repair. The leak is in the piston squirter pressure port, and is a fire risk. Sigh.