Buying a leggy Audi A6 3.0 TDi - false economy?

[youngsyr]

Hi all, I expect to be driving around 10,000 miles next year in our family car, mainly around town, so the current 5.2L S6 doesn't really make much financial sense.

With that in mind, I was looking to replace with a 3.0 TDi and saw you can pick up older (10 years), leggy examples (150k+ miles) for very little money (£4k-£5k).

My concern is, that I've never run either a diesel or very high mileage Audi before, so am I saving a few quid up front only to be met by massive bills down the line?

Can anyone give me a rough idea of what kind of additional maintenance (in addition to the routine) such a car might need and perhaps an idea of costs?

Thanks for any help offered.

[youngsyr]

Evanivitch said:

A 3.0TDi is the last thing you want for 10kpa around town.

Err, try a 5.2L V10. low single digits on premium fuel around town. ;-)

[youngsyr]

Dr G said:

Try and find one of these:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...

Thanks for this and your advice above, but the car in the link is double the price of late 08 3.0 Tdi's and is only 1 year newer, still over 100k miles and is petrol, I'm confused as to why that's a better option?!

Also, I wondered if you could clear up an equipment query I have - I believe that late 07 / early 08 3.0 TDi's have DPFs, but I'm also told that the code 7GN in the logbook means there is no DPF fitted.

The car I'm looking at is a September 2008 3.0 TDI A6 LeMans and has the code 7GN - so, does it have a DPF or not?!

[youngsyr]

TTmonkey said:

Mines a 2011 with 140k, does 37mpg but I rarely use it 'around town'.

No major m chanical isssues but the MMI doesn't produce any sound somis effectively useless, looking at 1400 to fix at an Audi garage. But it's a great car.

Depreciation is hard though.

Thanks, the car is less than £5k, so that's the most I can lose on it depreciation wise, which is part of the reason for buying it. A newer and less leggy high spec A6 will lose that in 3 years and 40 odd thousand miles anyway and the leggy one will still have some value at that point.

Your MMI sounds like the infamous blocked rear washer jet problem, is that what Audi diagnosed?

I bet you can get it fixed for a lot less than £1,400 too.

[youngsyr]

dogbucket said:

annodomini2 said:

TTmonkey said:

blueg33 said:

TTmonkey said:

blueg33 said:

On mine it was the Bluetooth unit that stuffed the mmi up, twice. Both fixed under warranty though. After the second fix it was fine.

What did the failure look like on yours? Mine all works apart from no sound comes out!!!!

No sound, cd wouldn’t play, phone didn’t work

My cd and phone work, apart from no sound from either. Satnav works too.

You get any errors displayed?

Sounds like a coding issue?

As above the Audi component protection manifests itself as no audio.

The DAB barely worked on mine so a got a s/h unit off eBay for £80 and got it coded to the car for another £70.

To avoid any confusion - the DAB unit on C6 Audi's at least doesn't need coding, it just needs activating in the car's onboard software. You essentially tell the car that a DAB unit is now fitted. If the car already had a DAB unit that you've replaced with a different one, you shouldn't need to touch the software except to clear any fault codes.

From memory it's ony the CD changer that has security coding and this can make it expensive to change the unit as I believe the security coding can only be done by Audi themselves.

[youngsyr]

Well, all I can say is that all of the guides I've seen say that no security coding is required to retro fit Dab to a C6 Audi and it certainly didn't for mine either.

You will need VCDS to activate the Dab unit in the MMI though.

[youngsyr]

Dr G said:

Urban use won't break a diesel but it isn't the best for them and will shorten the life of certain components; most notably DPF and EGR. The urban economy of cars like this is nothing to write home about.

I'm not familiar with that option code but if you send me the reg/chassis I'll punch it in and see what I can see.

Thanks for the offer - think I've got it sorted:

7GN in options sticker in service book/behind spare tyre in rear boot well means no DPF fitted.

Similarly engine code (Found in same places):

ASB = No DPF fitted
CDNY = DPF fitted.

Finally, if the exhaust tips are turned slightly downward, there is no DPF fitted.

The cut off point seems to be late 2008 early 2009, with DPF fitted to later cars. Earlier cars have a second cat in place of the DPF.

[youngsyr]

annodomini2 said:

youngsyr said:

Dr G said:

Urban use won't break a diesel but it isn't the best for them and will shorten the life of certain components; most notably DPF and EGR. The urban economy of cars like this is nothing to write home about.

I'm not familiar with that option code but if you send me the reg/chassis I'll punch it in and see what I can see.

Thanks for the offer - think I've got it sorted:

7GN in options sticker in service book/behind spare tyre in rear boot well means no DPF fitted.

Similarly engine code (Found in same places):

ASB = No DPF fitted
CDNY = DPF fitted.

Finally, if the exhaust tips are turned slightly downward, there is no DPF fitted.

The cut off point seems to be late 2008 early 2009, with DPF fitted to later cars. Earlier cars have a second cat in place of the DPF.

Well that's bks, I have a 2006 with DPF and Downward tail pipes, might be true of the facelift cars.

What engine code do you have? Should be either ASB or CDNY?

Also, is your car a grey import/originally sold overseas?

[youngsyr]

annodomini2 said:

UK Car, BMK and they can have a DPF.

Interesting, I guess you have to go on the engine or option code then.

BMK and CDYA engines have DPF
ASB have no DPF and two cats.

Code 7NG in the log book also indicates no DPF.

Seems like any age C6 can have a DPF, but there was a period between 2006 and 2009 when some didn't have one fitted.

[youngsyr]

annodomini2 said:

youngsyr said:

annodomini2 said:

UK Car, BMK and they can have a DPF.

Interesting, I guess you have to go on the engine or option code then.

BMK and CDYA engines have DPF
ASB have no DPF and two cats.

Code 7NG in the log book also indicates no DPF.

Seems like any age C6 can have a DPF, but there was a period between 2006 and 2009 when some didn't have one fitted.

I think on pre-facelift cars it was optional (basically ordered for company cars as the company got a tax break), In 2009 Euro 5 emission standard was introduced, which may have made it compulsary.

That would make a lot of sense.

[youngsyr]

Andy JB said:

Similarly engine code (Found in same places):

ASB = No DPF fitted
CDNY = DPF fitted.

Finally, if the exhaust tips are turned slightly downward, there is no DPF fitted.

The cut off point seems to be late 2008 early 2009, with DPF fitted to later cars. Earlier cars have a second cat in place of the DPF.

No sorry this is wrong - mine is 08 manufacture registered in 09 & has ASB code and downward exhaust tips & has a DPF !!

Well, it seems like the internet is wrong then! Lots of threads saying those engine codes dictate whether a DPF is fitted, but who knows.

I guess the option code is the definitive guide then.

[youngsyr]

Well, to get back to the topic, I picked up a late 2008 A6 3.0 TDi Avant Lemans (essentially S-Line with some nice extras) with 160k on the clock last week for not much money at all.

It has BOSE, powered tail gate, heated, illuminated front seats with electric lumbar support, black S-Line embossed leather, SatNav, AMI, CD multi changer, phone prep and fitted blinds in the rear.

Quite enjoy driving it around at the moment, so will keep the thread updated with progress/issues.

[youngsyr]

Thanks for your input, the MPG is much lower and the suspension much firmer on the outgoing car, so should be plain sailing!

[youngsyr]

TTmonkey said:

Would be interested to know how much.

Quick search on Autotrader will give you an idea.

[youngsyr]

joshcowin said:

youngsyr said:

Thanks for your input, the MPG is much lower and the suspension much firmer on the outgoing car, so should be plain sailing!

How you getting on with the car?

Looking at getting one for my wife?

One I would like is an 07 saloon with 140,000

Sorry, only just seen this!

Really well, wife really likes driving it and refers to it as "her car"! Not a bad recommendation considering it's a very long car.

We've put about 20k miles on it and the only faults have been extremely minor -

Both front door locking solenoids started sticking - changing the driver's side one was less than £200 inc labour
The central part of the display doesn't work if the car has been left out in temps below 5*C, but soon comes back on once the car interior heats up

MPG is pretty decent, getting over 400 miles to a tank with mixed driving.
Suspension is sporty, but fine.
Power delivery is more than adequate for a family car.

Not much else to say really, it's been a really good buy so far.

Edited by youngsyr on Tuesday 7th January 22:34

[youngsyr]

can't remember said:

I've just bought one of these as a daily/load lugger, April 2007, reasonably high miles but very well looked after. It's had everything done and been maintained regardless of cost (I know it's a cliche but the accompanying bills folder is thicker than the MMI manual ). I was very impressed by it's utterly effortless motorway and urban performance on the way home. Fuel economy on the other hand... well it's better than my classic.

How can I find out if it's got a DPF?

Check the options listed in the front of the service record. 7NG means it's been prepared for a DPF, but doesn't have one fitted.

Otherwise, you could always put it on a ramp and look underneath at the exhaust, although I think some of these cars have a combined cat/DPF just behind the turbo?

[youngsyr]

Well, 4 years and 40k further on and the car is still going strong. Only very minor maintenance required to date.

[youngsyr]

tenmantaylor said:

blueg33 said:

I agree. Terrible mpg round town and when cold, up to 40mpg on motorway. Mine averaged 36mpg.

Look out for knocking drop links, corroded contacts in rear lights, check all functions if the mmi.

I put 118k miles on my car from new with virtually no issues. Traded it in for £6500

I've had 40mpg out of my C7 S6 on the motorway.

Obviously around town is 20, a roads 25-30.

Depending on usage the Bitdi makes little sense apart from being cheaper to buy.

Have you driven the Bitdi?

I ask because I moved from a C6 S6 to a C6 3.0 Tdi S-Line and the Tdi is objectively the better car. The only thing I miss from the S6 is the noise and possibly the appearance of the seats (no difference in comfort). Everything else is either the same in the Tdi or better (brakes aren't so binary and suspension is more supple).

[youngsyr]

The jag man said:

I just picked up a 2007 le mans avant 3.0tdi on 165k miles. Heard a few horror stories about chains, gearbox etc. Seems to drive really well and good to see someone else has got some decent trouble free mileage out of theirs. I picked up mine for a snip at £2,400 and drives faultless with really good poke. I'll be doing a gearbox service to help prevent any nastys there and the chain doesn't rattle in the slightest. I've heard of people recommending to change the crank pulley and fuel pump belt so I will be doing those too to avoid any breakdowns. May be blanking off swirl flaps and egr also but I'm going to take it one step at a time!

Very nice, but if it drives well as it is, why bother fixing non existant problems?

It only owes you £2,500, I don't see much point spending £hundreds on it when another problem might crop up that actually needs to be fixed?

[youngsyr]

Dr G said:

youngsyr said:

Very nice, but if it drives well as it is, why bother fixing non existant problems?

It only owes you £2,500, I don't see much point spending £hundreds on it when another problem might crop up that actually needs to be fixed?

There are two ways of looking at this, one I understand but disagree with, and another that from a position of experience makes a lot more sense.

If you're happy flitting between cars, and buying another if anything goes wrong or is looming, then fine. If we're talking cheap cars most are poorly maintained or being sold for a reason, and problems will be common.

If you buy a fundamentally sound cheap car it is absolutely worth keeping it that way, both because it will be hard to replace and very considerably cheaper than a better/newer car.

It's the same as not spending 500 quid on maintenance for a car that's only worth 2 grand because it's "not worth it" - it is, because buying another 2 grand car will likely buy you the need to spend more on repairs, and a "better" car will be many times more again.

Better the devil you know.

My point was more that there were no indications that the car actually needed the work doing, these items aren't regular maintenance and the car has reportedly been looked after very well. It was just Internet rumours that had spooked the buyer.

Seems pointless to me to start taking apart a perfectly functioning car, especially when it's a cheap run around, but that's just me, I guess.