Griff 500 nut and bolt rebuild
Discussion
Hi all,
I've had a P reg Griff for 15 years that's due for a proper rebuild to showroom standard. I hope I can get feed back on who to choose for:-
a) Chassis retsoration
ai)Suspension and brakes
b) Body strip and repaint
c)Interior retrim
d)Engine rebuild to 400BHP ++ (must be a rover V8)
It's been years since I posted here but briefly, I've owned my '96 Giff for 15 years and I'd like to have a nut a bolt resto on it. For half of that 15 years it was a daily driver even in the snow. I've driven 60,000 miles in it and never slowly... Austec and TVR power tuned it and I fitted Nitrons and had a nice front and rear light conversion. The electrics were sorted and alarms upgraded.
Now its due a full rebuild. I have seen TVR specialists offering excellent modded chassis, non Rover engines etc but that's not for me. Frankly if I want something that doesn't drive like a TVR I'll buy a a car that's not a TVR
Whilst reading around I see that the reduced availability and rising values of Griffs means that members have been through this process ahead of me in the last five years.
Boiled down - is there a one or two stop stop shop/s or should I move the car between specialists ( which I suspect is best per task but there is a break in continuity/synergy)
For instance, a good chassis replacement company is easy to find but who do I trust to strip and repaint the body which has stars, crazing etc. Who still builds Rover V8s to + 400bhp for TVRs. Who can re-upholster the interior exactly as per 1996?
I'm not alone and others are following. I respect the old brute too much to mod it nor let it rot away so please tell me who you think is the very best ( monet no object)
Many thanks
Oliver
I've had a P reg Griff for 15 years that's due for a proper rebuild to showroom standard. I hope I can get feed back on who to choose for:-
a) Chassis retsoration
ai)Suspension and brakes
b) Body strip and repaint
c)Interior retrim
d)Engine rebuild to 400BHP ++ (must be a rover V8)
It's been years since I posted here but briefly, I've owned my '96 Giff for 15 years and I'd like to have a nut a bolt resto on it. For half of that 15 years it was a daily driver even in the snow. I've driven 60,000 miles in it and never slowly... Austec and TVR power tuned it and I fitted Nitrons and had a nice front and rear light conversion. The electrics were sorted and alarms upgraded.
Now its due a full rebuild. I have seen TVR specialists offering excellent modded chassis, non Rover engines etc but that's not for me. Frankly if I want something that doesn't drive like a TVR I'll buy a a car that's not a TVR
Whilst reading around I see that the reduced availability and rising values of Griffs means that members have been through this process ahead of me in the last five years.
Boiled down - is there a one or two stop stop shop/s or should I move the car between specialists ( which I suspect is best per task but there is a break in continuity/synergy)
For instance, a good chassis replacement company is easy to find but who do I trust to strip and repaint the body which has stars, crazing etc. Who still builds Rover V8s to + 400bhp for TVRs. Who can re-upholster the interior exactly as per 1996?
I'm not alone and others are following. I respect the old brute too much to mod it nor let it rot away so please tell me who you think is the very best ( monet no object)
Many thanks
Oliver
Hi Everybody,
Many thanks for all the great advice. I will be following it up. £30k is where I estimated so no shocks there. Just want to make sure I give it to the right people.
After hearing your views on 400bhp and after speaking with others I now realize that it's unnecessary and over the top. I'll settle for a well sorted 320bhp or maybe 350bhp if achievable without changing the outward appearance. Old Rolling road test show her running at 245bhp in the past so add 75/100bhp to that and I should be able to feel the difference....
I'll post back when I have moved things along
Cheers!
Oliver
Many thanks for all the great advice. I will be following it up. £30k is where I estimated so no shocks there. Just want to make sure I give it to the right people.
After hearing your views on 400bhp and after speaking with others I now realize that it's unnecessary and over the top. I'll settle for a well sorted 320bhp or maybe 350bhp if achievable without changing the outward appearance. Old Rolling road test show her running at 245bhp in the past so add 75/100bhp to that and I should be able to feel the difference....
I'll post back when I have moved things along
Cheers!
Oliver
Hi All,
Thanks a million for all the leads and thoughts.
She's off to Central TVR on Tuesday for approx 10 months for the 'Full Monty' (I like the idea of a single location that works with other specialists).
Trouble is there are so many improvements now, so many. Still, my gut feeling is to revert to original and remove the front and rear light conversion (which I like) and the leven dash etc and take her back to the quirky but original spec. The only concession being an engine up-power.
However now I'm hearing that the ECUs have run out so I should change it and the loom to an MBE system. Fine but that changes the look under the bonnet.....
So - do I go back to stock with all the faults (and I mean faults not foibles) or upgrade it
I don't know what to bloody do!!!
So, in a a few weeks time I'm up to Dudley to sit down with Adrian for a reality check, go over the options, pros and cons etc. He'll need to be as subtle and as wise as a psychiatrist to help me work out what I want
Still it's a golden problem I suppose.
I'll keep you posted
Oliver
Thanks a million for all the leads and thoughts.
She's off to Central TVR on Tuesday for approx 10 months for the 'Full Monty' (I like the idea of a single location that works with other specialists).
Trouble is there are so many improvements now, so many. Still, my gut feeling is to revert to original and remove the front and rear light conversion (which I like) and the leven dash etc and take her back to the quirky but original spec. The only concession being an engine up-power.
However now I'm hearing that the ECUs have run out so I should change it and the loom to an MBE system. Fine but that changes the look under the bonnet.....
So - do I go back to stock with all the faults (and I mean faults not foibles) or upgrade it
I don't know what to bloody do!!!
So, in a a few weeks time I'm up to Dudley to sit down with Adrian for a reality check, go over the options, pros and cons etc. He'll need to be as subtle and as wise as a psychiatrist to help me work out what I want
Still it's a golden problem I suppose.
I'll keep you posted
Oliver
Hi All,
She's off! Next stop Central TVR. I've decided to revert to visually period correct; walnut dash, original lights etc but upgrade the engine as much as practicable/possible using existing hardware so I imagine chip/cam/porting the plenum & head/ valves & pistons, lightening & balancing etc Obviously I need proper guidance and advice from TVR Power as to whats do-able as I am in no way up to speed.
I'll upload pics and comments along with many requests for readers thoughts along the way
Oliver
She's off! Next stop Central TVR. I've decided to revert to visually period correct; walnut dash, original lights etc but upgrade the engine as much as practicable/possible using existing hardware so I imagine chip/cam/porting the plenum & head/ valves & pistons, lightening & balancing etc Obviously I need proper guidance and advice from TVR Power as to whats do-able as I am in no way up to speed.
I'll upload pics and comments along with many requests for readers thoughts along the way
Oliver
Update
After a 5 month delay I finally got to sit down with Adrian and Andy at Central today both of whom are very nice chaps to talk things through with, full of sensible advice and options. I have decided to take her back to near as dammit 'factory' so out go all the Leven bits, steel dash; Zertec lights etc.
We went through every aspect and they were both as keen as me to make it as original as can be. Even the usability improvements such as the Steve Heath bonnet prop are out. We're going all the way back to a 1996 dealers; everything looking brand new......and that means that I'll have to renew every single ancillary; dizzy, fans, alternator, the entire hydraulic system from calipers to slaves and servos, air flow meter etc Basically everything you can see anywhere.
All aluminium engine castings will be vapour blasted and ceramic peened
All pipes, fuel rails, latches and locks will be re-plated and that includes any visible bolts that can't be bought new.
Sadly the chassis is shot so off to RT racing for a new one.
Don't shoot me down but the only upgrades will be;-
1- A well hidden battery jump socket in the boot (I never want to crawl into the passenger foot well ever again)
2 - Aluminium rad left in (painted black) (I hate to see that needle climbing up whilst stuck on the M25 in summer)
2 - Braided hoses and Mintex pads (safety)
3 - 7'' headlamps (safety)
4 - V8Devs 5.4ltr with Dominator heads BUT externally as factory (pure hooliganism)
5 - Nitrons (safety)
6 - Carl Baker boot opener (not seen and I'll be damned if I'm going to F about with 4 bags of shopping in the rain)
I'll post pics once things have become interesting.
Oliver
After a 5 month delay I finally got to sit down with Adrian and Andy at Central today both of whom are very nice chaps to talk things through with, full of sensible advice and options. I have decided to take her back to near as dammit 'factory' so out go all the Leven bits, steel dash; Zertec lights etc.
We went through every aspect and they were both as keen as me to make it as original as can be. Even the usability improvements such as the Steve Heath bonnet prop are out. We're going all the way back to a 1996 dealers; everything looking brand new......and that means that I'll have to renew every single ancillary; dizzy, fans, alternator, the entire hydraulic system from calipers to slaves and servos, air flow meter etc Basically everything you can see anywhere.
All aluminium engine castings will be vapour blasted and ceramic peened
All pipes, fuel rails, latches and locks will be re-plated and that includes any visible bolts that can't be bought new.
Sadly the chassis is shot so off to RT racing for a new one.
Don't shoot me down but the only upgrades will be;-
1- A well hidden battery jump socket in the boot (I never want to crawl into the passenger foot well ever again)
2 - Aluminium rad left in (painted black) (I hate to see that needle climbing up whilst stuck on the M25 in summer)
2 - Braided hoses and Mintex pads (safety)
3 - 7'' headlamps (safety)
4 - V8Devs 5.4ltr with Dominator heads BUT externally as factory (pure hooliganism)
5 - Nitrons (safety)
6 - Carl Baker boot opener (not seen and I'll be damned if I'm going to F about with 4 bags of shopping in the rain)
I'll post pics once things have become interesting.
Oliver
Edited by Olly-B on Tuesday 5th March 20:29
Ah yes - today whilst looking on the TVR parts site I saw just that thing and thought that it would do the job without any mucking about. Thanks for the commendation.
Off to V8Devs next week to discuss a 5.4 with Dominator heads but can it be made to work whilst keeping the under-bonnet looking orig? Probably but I won't get the best out of it. I'll find out what I'll loose in power without visible mods.
On the other hand...Tempted to fit smooth bore inlet and air flow meter and ACT triple Plenum etc to match the internal gas flow work for hooning and refit orig stuff for the very occasional show. That way I get the best of both. I'll spec that any mods should be replaceable in my garage over a weekend. The power map won't like the orig plenum/airflow being back on etc but I wont be driving far when in 'original' mode. I'll need to check if it could still drive. Maybe 2 interchangeable ECU's??? One for everyday 'making good progress' driving and one for the occasional 'flask of tea with folding chair' car show event with original bits back on.
Steady on OB! Originality spec going wobbly alert!? (but then again, 2 cars in 1?
Oliver
Off to V8Devs next week to discuss a 5.4 with Dominator heads but can it be made to work whilst keeping the under-bonnet looking orig? Probably but I won't get the best out of it. I'll find out what I'll loose in power without visible mods.
On the other hand...Tempted to fit smooth bore inlet and air flow meter and ACT triple Plenum etc to match the internal gas flow work for hooning and refit orig stuff for the very occasional show. That way I get the best of both. I'll spec that any mods should be replaceable in my garage over a weekend. The power map won't like the orig plenum/airflow being back on etc but I wont be driving far when in 'original' mode. I'll need to check if it could still drive. Maybe 2 interchangeable ECU's??? One for everyday 'making good progress' driving and one for the occasional 'flask of tea with folding chair' car show event with original bits back on.
Steady on OB! Originality spec going wobbly alert!? (but then again, 2 cars in 1?
Oliver
Edited by Olly-B on Tuesday 5th March 20:56
Lovely bay...When I got it many years ago I fitted the usual stuff - blue hoses, various AM caps and knobs, all the Leven bits, SS dash etc, blue rockers etc etc.
I'm not knocking mods, I loved them at the time and the Leven bits were what TVR should have fitted.
I just need to find some un-saggy sun visors and the original radio. Any one got these to flog?
Looks pukka in black. Meaner too
Thanks for posting
Oliver
I'm not knocking mods, I loved them at the time and the Leven bits were what TVR should have fitted.
I just need to find some un-saggy sun visors and the original radio. Any one got these to flog?
Looks pukka in black. Meaner too
Thanks for posting
Oliver
Edited by Olly-B on Wednesday 6th March 15:42
Edited by Olly-B on Wednesday 6th March 15:47
UPDATE
Well the ball is well and truly rolling
I went to visit Ray and Acea at V8 Devs yesterday to discuss engine spec. All I can say is it was well worth a crappy 5 hour round trip. Ray and Acea talked me through every aspect; the pro's and cons; the cost implications, options and bang for buck considerations.
Their dyno room is impressive. A technicians dream - climate controlled for repeatable comparison testing etc
After an excellent chat and cup of tea I settled on the following to give an estimated 325bhp at the engine and a skip load of torque.
Please bare in mind that by not installing a modern fueling and ignition system I am holding this engine back at 325bhp. If I went for those then who knows 350bhp+++??
I can still convert it back to under bonnet original over a weekend if I want to with a second ECU,and the orig parts.
I can't wait!!!
If you'd like one just ask Ray for costs. True, it's not the low cost choice but....
5.2L dominator engine
• Top hat linered cross bolted block
• New cam bearings
• New main bearings
• New Big ends bearings
• New core plugs
• 96mm Forged pistons and rings
• Steel Rods
• 90mm Large Journal crank
• Fully Balanced assembly
• Crank
• Rods
• Pistons
• Front pulley
• Fly wheel (Lightened and balanced)
• clutch pressure plate
• Pocketing of pistons
• Special grind Stealth cam kit
• Special grind Stealth cam
• Adjustable timing chain set
• High rev lifters
• Running in oil and additive
• Comp head gaskets
• Comp head bolts
• Dominator spec Cylinder heads
• Dominator spec porting
• Ultra big valves
• Guides
• Valve stem seals
• Double valve springs
• Water pump
• High torque starter motor
• All required gaskets and seals
• Acid dip, chemically clean, paint and refit sump
• Acid dip, chemically clean Front cover, rebuilding with new oil pump gears and uprated oil pressure relief valve.
• Adjustable push rods
• Fully refurbished rocker assemblies
• Fully refurbished rocker covers
• Upgraded clutch (softer peddle)
• Polish and ported inlet manifold
• 45mm Large radius trumpet base
• ACT Triple carbon plenum
• Larger bore Airflow meter
• Large Bosch injectors
• Full uprated dizzy kit
• Distributor body with gear
• Rotor arm
• Cap
• linking lead
• HT leads Dry resin High performance coil
• amp
• Full Dyno session to bed and run engine in.
• Oil filter
• Spark plugs
• Collection of original engine
• Shipping of new engine
• Large air flow meter conversion and loom adapter.
Well the ball is well and truly rolling
I went to visit Ray and Acea at V8 Devs yesterday to discuss engine spec. All I can say is it was well worth a crappy 5 hour round trip. Ray and Acea talked me through every aspect; the pro's and cons; the cost implications, options and bang for buck considerations.
Their dyno room is impressive. A technicians dream - climate controlled for repeatable comparison testing etc
After an excellent chat and cup of tea I settled on the following to give an estimated 325bhp at the engine and a skip load of torque.
Please bare in mind that by not installing a modern fueling and ignition system I am holding this engine back at 325bhp. If I went for those then who knows 350bhp+++??
I can still convert it back to under bonnet original over a weekend if I want to with a second ECU,and the orig parts.
I can't wait!!!
If you'd like one just ask Ray for costs. True, it's not the low cost choice but....
5.2L dominator engine
• Top hat linered cross bolted block
• New cam bearings
• New main bearings
• New Big ends bearings
• New core plugs
• 96mm Forged pistons and rings
• Steel Rods
• 90mm Large Journal crank
• Fully Balanced assembly
• Crank
• Rods
• Pistons
• Front pulley
• Fly wheel (Lightened and balanced)
• clutch pressure plate
• Pocketing of pistons
• Special grind Stealth cam kit
• Special grind Stealth cam
• Adjustable timing chain set
• High rev lifters
• Running in oil and additive
• Comp head gaskets
• Comp head bolts
• Dominator spec Cylinder heads
• Dominator spec porting
• Ultra big valves
• Guides
• Valve stem seals
• Double valve springs
• Water pump
• High torque starter motor
• All required gaskets and seals
• Acid dip, chemically clean, paint and refit sump
• Acid dip, chemically clean Front cover, rebuilding with new oil pump gears and uprated oil pressure relief valve.
• Adjustable push rods
• Fully refurbished rocker assemblies
• Fully refurbished rocker covers
• Upgraded clutch (softer peddle)
• Polish and ported inlet manifold
• 45mm Large radius trumpet base
• ACT Triple carbon plenum
• Larger bore Airflow meter
• Large Bosch injectors
• Full uprated dizzy kit
• Distributor body with gear
• Rotor arm
• Cap
• linking lead
• HT leads Dry resin High performance coil
• amp
• Full Dyno session to bed and run engine in.
• Oil filter
• Spark plugs
• Collection of original engine
• Shipping of new engine
• Large air flow meter conversion and loom adapter.
Edited by Olly-B on Wednesday 13th March 10:37
Thanks for the affirmation Yonex, I've not gone the whole hog with coil pack etc as I did not want to have these in the bay so will run with a Dizzy. Jools will do the final tune up to get the best out of it.
Here's some pics of the body getting a new arse. Some years ago a winkle in a Saxo biffed the OS corner. It was repaired but not very well and seeing as I'm going back to original lights with a top notch paint job it makes sense just to swap it out.
Might have to sell a kidney at this rate...
Here's some pics of the body getting a new arse. Some years ago a winkle in a Saxo biffed the OS corner. It was repaired but not very well and seeing as I'm going back to original lights with a top notch paint job it makes sense just to swap it out.
Might have to sell a kidney at this rate...
It is the engine it should have had perhaps.
The project is moving on as fast as i can earn it. Nitrons are done and on their way and Peter Wiggins is working on my dash. The gear box has been fully rebuilt and will mate up with a brand new BTR diff and I've ordered a new chassis.
That leaves me extremely skint but satisfied.
Hopefully I'll get it back before the summer has all gone
Oliver
The project is moving on as fast as i can earn it. Nitrons are done and on their way and Peter Wiggins is working on my dash. The gear box has been fully rebuilt and will mate up with a brand new BTR diff and I've ordered a new chassis.
That leaves me extremely skint but satisfied.
Hopefully I'll get it back before the summer has all gone
Oliver
Oh dear..
The wobble has turned to a U turn. Interior and exterior as original as planned apart from 7'' lamps. But under bonnet is now a mod zone. V8Devs 5.2l will can now have a compression of 11.5 as I'm going Megasquirt. (Coil packs mounted discretely behind the Triple plenum)
Hoping for somewhere around 350 bhp at the fly with lots of torque. Along with no silencers it will be a bit of a buzz to hoon around in ;-)
I am so weak... but I get 3 maps and a discreet 3 way switch! 1 = Grand touring, 2 = MOT (no cats) 3 = Speed + Evil granny killing over-run pops (basically this will be on 99.9% of the time.
Oliver
The wobble has turned to a U turn. Interior and exterior as original as planned apart from 7'' lamps. But under bonnet is now a mod zone. V8Devs 5.2l will can now have a compression of 11.5 as I'm going Megasquirt. (Coil packs mounted discretely behind the Triple plenum)
Hoping for somewhere around 350 bhp at the fly with lots of torque. Along with no silencers it will be a bit of a buzz to hoon around in ;-)
I am so weak... but I get 3 maps and a discreet 3 way switch! 1 = Grand touring, 2 = MOT (no cats) 3 = Speed + Evil granny killing over-run pops (basically this will be on 99.9% of the time.
Oliver
Edited by Olly-B on Friday 5th July 19:31
Edited by Olly-B on Friday 5th July 19:33
Update
Hi all,
Its been a year plus and yes, as per my personality and in the face of warnings, it has spun off budget. Now at £50k, so be warned. If you are weak like me and don't have to choose between brake shoes and your kids shoes it will probably only go one way...
I will keep this car until I'm 90 years old and quite senile so that the cops will have to ram me off the wrong side of the M1 with a Pitt maneuver.
Not bragging so please do not slap me down. Just posting this so that my experience can be of use to others.
I ought to add that Central bill is for an as new car , striped to the fibre glass, new rear end, refit original lights, correct glasss fibre faiuts, excluding the other listed elements but including new diff, wishbones, all bearing and bushes, all plumbing, loom, brakes; pipes, cooling pipes etc etc etc in fact every wearable part or part that could not be restored to as factory, so virtually everything really. And full interior.
V8 Devs have made a 350bhp unit with tripple plenum and all the usuals plus Mega Squirt 3; fully run in on the dyno.
Nitrons are rebuilt with new uprated springs
New RT Racing Chassis
Exhaust Camcoated inside and out as posted elsewhere
Gearbox fully rebuilt
Once you start....
Hi all,
Its been a year plus and yes, as per my personality and in the face of warnings, it has spun off budget. Now at £50k, so be warned. If you are weak like me and don't have to choose between brake shoes and your kids shoes it will probably only go one way...
I will keep this car until I'm 90 years old and quite senile so that the cops will have to ram me off the wrong side of the M1 with a Pitt maneuver.
Not bragging so please do not slap me down. Just posting this so that my experience can be of use to others.
I ought to add that Central bill is for an as new car , striped to the fibre glass, new rear end, refit original lights, correct glasss fibre faiuts, excluding the other listed elements but including new diff, wishbones, all bearing and bushes, all plumbing, loom, brakes; pipes, cooling pipes etc etc etc in fact every wearable part or part that could not be restored to as factory, so virtually everything really. And full interior.
V8 Devs have made a 350bhp unit with tripple plenum and all the usuals plus Mega Squirt 3; fully run in on the dyno.
Nitrons are rebuilt with new uprated springs
New RT Racing Chassis
Exhaust Camcoated inside and out as posted elsewhere
Gearbox fully rebuilt
Once you start....
Edited by Olly-B on Thursday 29th August 22:41
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