K666GRF - 4.3 pre-cat Griff (obvs)
Discussion
Hi all.
Thought I’d continue the story from this thread as there are a few here that have fond memories of this car:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I sort of plan to update here as each job or chapter gets completed over the next few months.
Start easy as they say. The first one was one of my pet TVR hates. The velcro securing on the leading edge of the hood behind the door. People not lifting it when dropping the hood, I know it will peel undone but it also rips it from the body. And, although someone had fitted a new hood, they had araldited the velcro down. Far too rigid.
So an easy fix with Tiger Seal and a bit of masking off. Interestingly there were 2 rivet holes at the front end and I’d never seen that on previous cars. Makes sense, though, to secure the velcro at the point of most stress if not lifted for opening. Thus replaced as well.
Thought I’d continue the story from this thread as there are a few here that have fond memories of this car:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I sort of plan to update here as each job or chapter gets completed over the next few months.
Start easy as they say. The first one was one of my pet TVR hates. The velcro securing on the leading edge of the hood behind the door. People not lifting it when dropping the hood, I know it will peel undone but it also rips it from the body. And, although someone had fitted a new hood, they had araldited the velcro down. Far too rigid.
So an easy fix with Tiger Seal and a bit of masking off. Interestingly there were 2 rivet holes at the front end and I’d never seen that on previous cars. Makes sense, though, to secure the velcro at the point of most stress if not lifted for opening. Thus replaced as well.
The next little item was a slight blow on one of the manifolds. You could see that they had been welded in the past and looking at the history, both had been replaced in 2001.
We also know the oem ones are pretty poor quality but I’d hoped to remove, clean and reweld using a chap near me in Somerset. More of him later.
Fortunately I have a generous car nut neighbour (with everything from Voisin-Avion to Maserati QP) whose lift I can occasionally borrow. 2 hrs later and both manifolds off and may as well remove the full pipe work underneath.
Mmmmmmh. Like an old house etc. Once you get it apart, you wonder how it stayed up. One may have been repairable but the front exhaust port bend was kinked on the inside diameter, from poor initial manufacture, thus would always be a weak point.
The other manifold was cracked down one pipe from a previous weld, which has created a stress point allowing propagation of the crack. Weld it too hard vs mild steel so one always gives.
And the main section has several cracks not visible from the underside and significant corrosion to the cheap welded pipe.
Anyhow, took it all to the expert. He builds one off stainless systems for any project as well as roll cages etc. Possibly salvageable in places but significant work to repair to a pretty poor quality system in the first place. But he had a plan. ……..
We also know the oem ones are pretty poor quality but I’d hoped to remove, clean and reweld using a chap near me in Somerset. More of him later.
Fortunately I have a generous car nut neighbour (with everything from Voisin-Avion to Maserati QP) whose lift I can occasionally borrow. 2 hrs later and both manifolds off and may as well remove the full pipe work underneath.
Mmmmmmh. Like an old house etc. Once you get it apart, you wonder how it stayed up. One may have been repairable but the front exhaust port bend was kinked on the inside diameter, from poor initial manufacture, thus would always be a weak point.
The other manifold was cracked down one pipe from a previous weld, which has created a stress point allowing propagation of the crack. Weld it too hard vs mild steel so one always gives.
And the main section has several cracks not visible from the underside and significant corrosion to the cheap welded pipe.
Anyhow, took it all to the expert. He builds one off stainless systems for any project as well as roll cages etc. Possibly salvageable in places but significant work to repair to a pretty poor quality system in the first place. But he had a plan. ……..
The os one had definitely been off since, new bolts at the manifold and flange. However ns could have been on a good while, 4 of 8 flange bolts just snapped when shown a socket and bar. Just made it quicker to undo!
Anyway the quick weld fix was off and a new solution was needed but also had to get a non-running car 500yds back to my garage as it would have been a bit cheeky to leave it on my friend’s pampas for a couple of months.
Can’t drive, can’t tow due to the L77 g/box and its non lubrication if the input shaft is not rotating. So for a pack of hobnobs and some beers a friend of a friend in the village had a car trailer that my Legacy engined VW T25 could pull
The benefits of the village life, there is always someone local, who has the bit you need for a barter.
Anyway the quick weld fix was off and a new solution was needed but also had to get a non-running car 500yds back to my garage as it would have been a bit cheeky to leave it on my friend’s pampas for a couple of months.
Can’t drive, can’t tow due to the L77 g/box and its non lubrication if the input shaft is not rotating. So for a pack of hobnobs and some beers a friend of a friend in the village had a car trailer that my Legacy engined VW T25 could pull
The benefits of the village life, there is always someone local, who has the bit you need for a barter.
Moose - that is a lovely snakes' wedding! Agree, messing around with old erroded mild steel would just mean re-doing. On examination, they were worse that first thought.
SFTW - I prefer to see and buy cars un-prepped and not too fussed whether from a private sale or a dealer. I got a significant discount that I was happy with and hopefully the vendor got what he wanted, with the dealer making a bit for being helpful. The reason is that firstly I enjoy the fixing (although it may not sound like it at the time!) and get satifaction from the completion as well as meeting loads of fascinating skilled traded individuals. Secondly I believe I get a better product ultimately as it is my vehicle, not margin being erroded from the sale price, which may tempt some to cut the odd corner (unbelievable, I know). And finally I know the quality of the work done and the correct parts / processes used, which may be a bit unkind to some very trustworthy outfits, I appreciate.
I am also looking for very specific cars so they often come from a distance away. This also further muddies the water about warranty work, who and where it should be done.
Most of my cars have taken this route, eg both Ferrari's, the 4200 and v8s most recently, with a fighting fund factored in. But you do need to want to do the research and work to make it cost effective. If not, pay a trustworthy dealer!
Anyway back to the exhaust, Clive has an excellent reputation and his products are well thought of by the TVRS SW guys. Fits properly but he does not to a flanged pre-cat item and no complete system. And you pay good money for a good product, All the other suppliers use the JP manufactured product. I spoke to them direct and could get a small discount direct (incidently they did my F355 manifolds when the Ferrari ones were a known poor and expensive product, excellent work) However reviews on fitting were mixed. Stainless is very stiff and any requirement to ratchet together to get to fit introduces stress into the system, which is not desirable either at manifold end or further down the pipework.
Thus a third route is being pursued, a bespoke whole system with the car available to allow adjustment and perfect fit. We plan a similar to oem but not identical set up. No flanges as this may make the whole system a bit 'stiff' Probably a v clamp type setup to allow a bit of movement between headders and pipework, but better than the TVR cat v clamps!
I want no more noise but a cripser sound, which should be achieved by stainless. We're also going to look at pipework diameter, whether the standard diameter is necessary or if a slight reduction can be made to create a bit more room. More to follow. Lead time a couple of months so no real difference than anyone else and allows me a few other jobs.
Starting with these, again a known fault at purchase, as I now have a bit more working space!
SFTW - I prefer to see and buy cars un-prepped and not too fussed whether from a private sale or a dealer. I got a significant discount that I was happy with and hopefully the vendor got what he wanted, with the dealer making a bit for being helpful. The reason is that firstly I enjoy the fixing (although it may not sound like it at the time!) and get satifaction from the completion as well as meeting loads of fascinating skilled traded individuals. Secondly I believe I get a better product ultimately as it is my vehicle, not margin being erroded from the sale price, which may tempt some to cut the odd corner (unbelievable, I know). And finally I know the quality of the work done and the correct parts / processes used, which may be a bit unkind to some very trustworthy outfits, I appreciate.
I am also looking for very specific cars so they often come from a distance away. This also further muddies the water about warranty work, who and where it should be done.
Most of my cars have taken this route, eg both Ferrari's, the 4200 and v8s most recently, with a fighting fund factored in. But you do need to want to do the research and work to make it cost effective. If not, pay a trustworthy dealer!
Anyway back to the exhaust, Clive has an excellent reputation and his products are well thought of by the TVRS SW guys. Fits properly but he does not to a flanged pre-cat item and no complete system. And you pay good money for a good product, All the other suppliers use the JP manufactured product. I spoke to them direct and could get a small discount direct (incidently they did my F355 manifolds when the Ferrari ones were a known poor and expensive product, excellent work) However reviews on fitting were mixed. Stainless is very stiff and any requirement to ratchet together to get to fit introduces stress into the system, which is not desirable either at manifold end or further down the pipework.
Thus a third route is being pursued, a bespoke whole system with the car available to allow adjustment and perfect fit. We plan a similar to oem but not identical set up. No flanges as this may make the whole system a bit 'stiff' Probably a v clamp type setup to allow a bit of movement between headders and pipework, but better than the TVR cat v clamps!
I want no more noise but a cripser sound, which should be achieved by stainless. We're also going to look at pipework diameter, whether the standard diameter is necessary or if a slight reduction can be made to create a bit more room. More to follow. Lead time a couple of months so no real difference than anyone else and allows me a few other jobs.
Starting with these, again a known fault at purchase, as I now have a bit more working space!
Next up, an easy fix that I know will end up as man vs TVR
Unfortunately as we are without manifold or exhaust, nipping down to my friend’s ramps was not an option. So drive and axle stands, too old for this but no option. From reading up, removing the rubber mounts and the mounting plate is the best option, then separating them on the bench.
So all bolts turn easily, win. But the front one to the block is a pig for access. Too narrow for a spanner and blocked for a socket and bar or ratchet. So made a little square to hex adapter for a 1/2” spanner for the back of the socket.
Worried about the known problem of sump to block fit, I decided to use an oak block onto the edge of the sump to hopefully prevent any bending of the sump itself. This took the weight nicely to allo removal of all 5 bolts. And the mount just dropped to the drive.
(I did belt and braces with a block under the sump just in case of failure!)
Unfortunately as we are without manifold or exhaust, nipping down to my friend’s ramps was not an option. So drive and axle stands, too old for this but no option. From reading up, removing the rubber mounts and the mounting plate is the best option, then separating them on the bench.
So all bolts turn easily, win. But the front one to the block is a pig for access. Too narrow for a spanner and blocked for a socket and bar or ratchet. So made a little square to hex adapter for a 1/2” spanner for the back of the socket.
Worried about the known problem of sump to block fit, I decided to use an oak block onto the edge of the sump to hopefully prevent any bending of the sump itself. This took the weight nicely to allo removal of all 5 bolts. And the mount just dropped to the drive.
(I did belt and braces with a block under the sump just in case of failure!)
Now all apart, I had bodger’s guilt about the flaking paint. So head against heart, a quick coat of paint to make them look respectable.
So now a stop for lunch whilst it dries. I won’t have the patience so there will be fingerprints in the almost dry paint goes back together.
So that took 2 1/2 hours but, to be fair, 1 hour was spent with a neighbour, who popped over to add moral support. He had a college mate, who had worked for TVR in the late 80s into 90s as a chassis engineer before off to greater things. He work for Ford as a development engineer. So we chatted about how it was better in the old days…………
So now a stop for lunch whilst it dries. I won’t have the patience so there will be fingerprints in the almost dry paint goes back together.
So that took 2 1/2 hours but, to be fair, 1 hour was spent with a neighbour, who popped over to add moral support. He had a college mate, who had worked for TVR in the late 80s into 90s as a chassis engineer before off to greater things. He work for Ford as a development engineer. So we chatted about how it was better in the old days…………
The Griff departs the n a month (hopefully) for its custom manifolds and exhaust fitting. Like a bespoke Saville Row suit, I hope.
Thus one last job, which I had sort of been avoiding as I’d never done it before. When the old manifolds came off, 3 of the pipes where a bit white, suggesting lean running. I should have taken a photo before I sent them off as a template to my stainless chap. However pulling some plugs out also showed some of the cylinders running lean, with obvious problems if not addressed. So chatting with him and TVRS SW, the place to start is properly cleaning the injectors.
I doubt they have been out of the engine since build and with long periods of inactivity, they are probably due an overhaul. Ultrasonic cleaning by TVRS SW is a very reasonable £100 but I need to do the spanner work. So in we dive.
Tbh it was not too painful. All came apart easily just hard work bent over the engine bay for an old giffer.
Although I was terrified of losing something down one of the trumpets. Although the car hadn’t run for 6 weeks so there was no pressure in the fuel rail, there was plenty to drain out. However the petrol rag can then be used to clean 3 decades of dribbled oil etc from the bits you can’t get to normally. The injectors popped out easily so not sure if I should replace the o rings before they go back in. I’ll take that under advice.
Anyway a wait of a week or two for the cleaning so my memory won't last that long. So from bitter experience, a chronology of disassembly to give a tick sheet for reassembly. That way I stand an evens chance of it starting and running on one the exhaust is done.
Thus one last job, which I had sort of been avoiding as I’d never done it before. When the old manifolds came off, 3 of the pipes where a bit white, suggesting lean running. I should have taken a photo before I sent them off as a template to my stainless chap. However pulling some plugs out also showed some of the cylinders running lean, with obvious problems if not addressed. So chatting with him and TVRS SW, the place to start is properly cleaning the injectors.
I doubt they have been out of the engine since build and with long periods of inactivity, they are probably due an overhaul. Ultrasonic cleaning by TVRS SW is a very reasonable £100 but I need to do the spanner work. So in we dive.
Tbh it was not too painful. All came apart easily just hard work bent over the engine bay for an old giffer.
Although I was terrified of losing something down one of the trumpets. Although the car hadn’t run for 6 weeks so there was no pressure in the fuel rail, there was plenty to drain out. However the petrol rag can then be used to clean 3 decades of dribbled oil etc from the bits you can’t get to normally. The injectors popped out easily so not sure if I should replace the o rings before they go back in. I’ll take that under advice.
Anyway a wait of a week or two for the cleaning so my memory won't last that long. So from bitter experience, a chronology of disassembly to give a tick sheet for reassembly. That way I stand an evens chance of it starting and running on one the exhaust is done.
Zen or - absolutely correct. Injectors cleaned and tested. 6 were good and 2 fair. Now all consistent. Hopefully that explains the lean running on a couple of cylinders. So new filters and O rings fitted and greased ready to go straight back in.
Reassembly twice a quick as taking apart and advised to use this stuff to seal manifold and plenum faces:
Just paint on and mate. It is oil and fuel solvent so if any excess gets into the system it won’t block filters and oil pathways unlike silicone.
Couple of the trumpets were loose and sitting proud so cleaned and reseated correctly. So much stuff you find when you start taking things apart that no one would ever have know about otherwise. Hopefully all these little corrections will add up. Marginal gains etc.
Pressure tested the fuel statement as best I could as can’t run it as no exhaust system. However with 6+ cycles with the fuel pump and ignition all dry. We’ll just need to be careful in a few weeks once the exhaust system is made and fitted.
Final picture of nice clean injectors for any injector nerds. Actually not a too complex job to remove and refit despite my initial concerns.
Reassembly twice a quick as taking apart and advised to use this stuff to seal manifold and plenum faces:
Just paint on and mate. It is oil and fuel solvent so if any excess gets into the system it won’t block filters and oil pathways unlike silicone.
Couple of the trumpets were loose and sitting proud so cleaned and reseated correctly. So much stuff you find when you start taking things apart that no one would ever have know about otherwise. Hopefully all these little corrections will add up. Marginal gains etc.
Pressure tested the fuel statement as best I could as can’t run it as no exhaust system. However with 6+ cycles with the fuel pump and ignition all dry. We’ll just need to be careful in a few weeks once the exhaust system is made and fitted.
Final picture of nice clean injectors for any injector nerds. Actually not a too complex job to remove and refit despite my initial concerns.
It’s coming home, well this week hopefully.
I won’t say it’s not been a bit frustrating as away since Xmas but Cv19, incorrect supplied centre box, difficulty in obtaining materials, injury and my odd work patterns all meant delays.
Anyway a couple of workshop taster photos. The fabricator seems to have had a bit of mission creep with equal length stuff. Not planned by me as I was after like for like but he knows best! So he said. And he builds more than I do
More to follow once I get my hands on the car again. I know there is a flickering brake warning light to fix, electrical I believe as the hyd bit of the system is fine.
I won’t say it’s not been a bit frustrating as away since Xmas but Cv19, incorrect supplied centre box, difficulty in obtaining materials, injury and my odd work patterns all meant delays.
Anyway a couple of workshop taster photos. The fabricator seems to have had a bit of mission creep with equal length stuff. Not planned by me as I was after like for like but he knows best! So he said. And he builds more than I do
More to follow once I get my hands on the car again. I know there is a flickering brake warning light to fix, electrical I believe as the hyd bit of the system is fine.
Know what you mean and originally I was after just a like for like pre-cat set up. However, and I understand the science behind it - the individual pulses, scavenging effect etc, the guy used his better judgement. He does turbo and race car stuff so thought it was ridiculous to mirror TVR's original shortfalls. And who am I to question.
Will report back but TVR law is constant - having sat unused for 3 months in the workshop, would just start to load but now a flat battery! So being charged before I can really run it.
I would say it looks less snakes wedding and tidier in the flesh. And £1800 for full headder to exhaust system including fitting at the workshop so it actually fits together without stresses or needing ratchet straps to join. I thought that was very good value.
Will report back once a few miles have been done. And the MOT expires tomorrow! Ugh.
Will report back but TVR law is constant - having sat unused for 3 months in the workshop, would just start to load but now a flat battery! So being charged before I can really run it.
I would say it looks less snakes wedding and tidier in the flesh. And £1800 for full headder to exhaust system including fitting at the workshop so it actually fits together without stresses or needing ratchet straps to join. I thought that was very good value.
Will report back once a few miles have been done. And the MOT expires tomorrow! Ugh.
citizen smith said:
Cost £1800 way back in 2001, for replacement cracked manifolds. So your manifold job sounds like good value to me.
Same again, split at the tight inside radius as the manifold immediately bends 90 deg forwards on both front cylinders, actually the bend had kinked the pipe so weakening, split lenghways before the turn to the flange on a couple of pipes in a couple of places. And the underneath system was paper thin and un-weldable. It was really interesting how much internal erosion had taken place due to the gasses.And Dolly Sprint owner, nice. Mine was Inca Yellow, UUM681T. Loved it.
Edited by ric p on Wednesday 9th March 09:17
So it wasn't a flat battery but we couldn't get the engine to turn over on the starter. Clonk as the solenoid engaged but locked absolutely solid.
So began a week of head scratching and frustration. Initial thoughts were the starter stuck in. So tried rocking the car in gear to free with no joy. So up on axle stands and starter off. Not that but stamped 47/92. So the original starter, it has done well!
Next idea, seized water pump or alternator. Belt off but no.
Even with a socket on the end of the crank pulley, it was un-turnable. So plugs out to see if there was any debris. No but the car had definitely run since I took it apart as the clogged injectors had made the front 2 cylinders run lean. Now all the plugs were nice and sooty as it had been run at idle to test the exhaust.
Gearbox input shaft seized? No, with clutch in, car moves. By now we were beginning to struggle. I was fearing the worst and the exhaust chap was hoping for the best! However neither could really believe you could seize an engine solid at idle without any indications.
It had obviously been keeping him awake at night so he popped over yesterday with a boroscope but even that revealed noting in any cylinder. Next was to remove the inspection panel at the bottom of the front of the bell-housing. But again nothing to see.
So the next port of call was off to TVRS SW rather than start stripping down the engine. I was beginning to worry of a catastrophic failure. As it was on his watch as he last ran it in his workshop, so was he.
Then a moment of genius whilst under the car. The exhaust is supported by a bolt into the bottom of the bell-housing and he remembered replacing it as the thread was a bit rough during the fitting. Bolt removed and on the top a tell-tale witness mark of where it had caught the starter ring.
When it had been fitted and the car lowered, the bolt must have had a hair width's clearance. Thus started and ran fine. Just loading onto the car trailer and the movement and flex must have closed the gap sufficient to lock the starter ring.
He (and I) were mighty relieved. From rebuild to a shorter bolt in an hour. So now to just reattach everything I removed and we may actually be able to make some noise.
So began a week of head scratching and frustration. Initial thoughts were the starter stuck in. So tried rocking the car in gear to free with no joy. So up on axle stands and starter off. Not that but stamped 47/92. So the original starter, it has done well!
Next idea, seized water pump or alternator. Belt off but no.
Even with a socket on the end of the crank pulley, it was un-turnable. So plugs out to see if there was any debris. No but the car had definitely run since I took it apart as the clogged injectors had made the front 2 cylinders run lean. Now all the plugs were nice and sooty as it had been run at idle to test the exhaust.
Gearbox input shaft seized? No, with clutch in, car moves. By now we were beginning to struggle. I was fearing the worst and the exhaust chap was hoping for the best! However neither could really believe you could seize an engine solid at idle without any indications.
It had obviously been keeping him awake at night so he popped over yesterday with a boroscope but even that revealed noting in any cylinder. Next was to remove the inspection panel at the bottom of the front of the bell-housing. But again nothing to see.
So the next port of call was off to TVRS SW rather than start stripping down the engine. I was beginning to worry of a catastrophic failure. As it was on his watch as he last ran it in his workshop, so was he.
Then a moment of genius whilst under the car. The exhaust is supported by a bolt into the bottom of the bell-housing and he remembered replacing it as the thread was a bit rough during the fitting. Bolt removed and on the top a tell-tale witness mark of where it had caught the starter ring.
When it had been fitted and the car lowered, the bolt must have had a hair width's clearance. Thus started and ran fine. Just loading onto the car trailer and the movement and flex must have closed the gap sufficient to lock the starter ring.
He (and I) were mighty relieved. From rebuild to a shorter bolt in an hour. So now to just reattach everything I removed and we may actually be able to make some noise.
Success. Back together, spins and fired straight away. After all the angst and fury, these little successes make old car ownership worth it!
Right, next one before the MOT on Tuesday, the i warning light is flickering then on. Suggesting low brake fluid. However level fine.
My understanding is it a simple float mechanism, with pressing the yellow cap as a test for the system, it makes the contacts inside, .except my float doesn’t float.
Pop the yellow top off and pull up the plunger, light out. Let go, light on. This should be an easy fix as just a Ford cap.
But a crafty little drive round the village, I’d forgotten how instant and revvy the non cat ones are. And the new exhaust is fantastic. No louder (I’m getting old) but definitely crisper.
Right, next one before the MOT on Tuesday, the i warning light is flickering then on. Suggesting low brake fluid. However level fine.
My understanding is it a simple float mechanism, with pressing the yellow cap as a test for the system, it makes the contacts inside, .except my float doesn’t float.
Pop the yellow top off and pull up the plunger, light out. Let go, light on. This should be an easy fix as just a Ford cap.
But a crafty little drive round the village, I’d forgotten how instant and revvy the non cat ones are. And the new exhaust is fantastic. No louder (I’m getting old) but definitely crisper.
Edited by ric p on Saturday 26th March 14:53
Edited by ric p on Saturday 26th March 14:54
Success. Back together, spins and fired straight away. After all the angst and fury, these little successes make old car ownership worth it!
Right, next one before the MOT on Tuesday, the i warning light is flickering then on. Suggesting low brake fluid. However level fine.
My understanding is it a simple float mechanism, with pressing the yellow cap as a test for the system, it makes the contacts inside, .except my float doesn’t float.
Pop the yellow top off and pull up the plunger, light out. Let go, light on. This should be an easy fix as just a Ford cap.
But a crafty little drive round the village, I’d forgotten how instant and revvy the non cat ones are. And the new exhaust is fantastic. No louder (I’m getting old) but definitely crisper.
Right, next one before the MOT on Tuesday, the i warning light is flickering then on. Suggesting low brake fluid. However level fine.
My understanding is it a simple float mechanism, with pressing the yellow cap as a test for the system, it makes the contacts inside, .except my float doesn’t float.
Pop the yellow top off and pull up the plunger, light out. Let go, light on. This should be an easy fix as just a Ford cap.
But a crafty little drive round the village, I’d forgotten how instant and revvy the non cat ones are. And the new exhaust is fantastic. No louder (I’m getting old) but definitely crisper.
Edited by ric p on Saturday 26th March 14:53
Edited by ric p on Saturday 26th March 18:04
Success. MOT passed with no problems. An advisory for an oil leak on the sheet.
But I think the TVR MOT forms have oil leak advisory pre-printed as any MOT without this is obviously fake. It is part of the active rust protection system fitted at the factory.
Now need to get some miles on it. Haynes on Sunday for coffee and a sausage bap. Weather permitting.
But I think the TVR MOT forms have oil leak advisory pre-printed as any MOT without this is obviously fake. It is part of the active rust protection system fitted at the factory.
Now need to get some miles on it. Haynes on Sunday for coffee and a sausage bap. Weather permitting.
So car running and have been trying to put some miles on it using it to and from work. Fortunately my commute is the A303/A30 to Exeter so some quite TVR suitable roads.
Been running well although there is a very slight hesitation or misfire below 2000rpm when travelling slowly. Clears at speed so suggest heat build up and possibly a braking down HT lead or plug extender. So will need to track that down and get into the plug extender vs socks discussion.
More importantly, CD player is u/s. Pulling it out, the wires had been extended and badly soldered so some just pulled apart.
So a bit of time trimming and repairing the 30 year old wiring. Voila, 1990s CDs in my 1990s car. My son can’t grasp the concept of CDs with cases rattling round the passenger footwell but I have removed the last tape player from the VW camper so we are moving forward!
On my commute, I’d forgotten how instant the power is, possibly heightened by its, now, small size. I do feel that the modern 235/35 front tyres need to go though as the steering effort is too great.
Although the Lenso alloys are fine, I just feel it is a bit over wheeled and tyre-ed. So I’ll keep an eye out for some pre-cat alloys possibly and flog the Lensos I think a bit more tyre wall will improve the ride and I sort of prefer the original look.
Been running well although there is a very slight hesitation or misfire below 2000rpm when travelling slowly. Clears at speed so suggest heat build up and possibly a braking down HT lead or plug extender. So will need to track that down and get into the plug extender vs socks discussion.
More importantly, CD player is u/s. Pulling it out, the wires had been extended and badly soldered so some just pulled apart.
So a bit of time trimming and repairing the 30 year old wiring. Voila, 1990s CDs in my 1990s car. My son can’t grasp the concept of CDs with cases rattling round the passenger footwell but I have removed the last tape player from the VW camper so we are moving forward!
On my commute, I’d forgotten how instant the power is, possibly heightened by its, now, small size. I do feel that the modern 235/35 front tyres need to go though as the steering effort is too great.
Although the Lenso alloys are fine, I just feel it is a bit over wheeled and tyre-ed. So I’ll keep an eye out for some pre-cat alloys possibly and flog the Lensos I think a bit more tyre wall will improve the ride and I sort of prefer the original look.
So this week’s task is to cure the slight misfire.
I’m sure it is electrical and worsens in slow traffic, which would suggest under bonnet heat related. That points to a HT lead or extender breaking down. They all looked ok when we had the plugs out but they are of an unknown vintage.
Therefore a logical approach is needed. This arrived today:
Lovely new angled plug leads. So I’ll bin the old ones and extenders and see where we get to. After that, if the hesitation remains, plugs, then rotor arm, then dizzy cap. And so on. But a betting man might put money on new leads solving it.
Update to follow later this afternoon.
I’m sure it is electrical and worsens in slow traffic, which would suggest under bonnet heat related. That points to a HT lead or extender breaking down. They all looked ok when we had the plugs out but they are of an unknown vintage.
Therefore a logical approach is needed. This arrived today:
Lovely new angled plug leads. So I’ll bin the old ones and extenders and see where we get to. After that, if the hesitation remains, plugs, then rotor arm, then dizzy cap. And so on. But a betting man might put money on new leads solving it.
Update to follow later this afternoon.
Slightly delayed update but success (with a minor hiccup)
Old snakes’ wedding HT leads, which were a bit of a mix of ages and designs, removed.
Then all the plug extenders removed. Some are a bit corroded but have no idea about their serviceability.
And new Mr Retro leads on. Easy as that. So time for a quick test drive. Immediately noticeably better. From cold, the engine loses some of its stutter at low revs and once warm, misfire gone. Revs cleanly blah blah blah until a cough and misfire returns. Not good.
Anyway back home and bonnet open, one of the lovely new leads had twisted to touch a header pipe with the expected result. B***er,
I won’t post the photo of my scalded thumb as I tried to move it back. Entirely my own fault, the plastic Rover HT lead bracket, that sits attached to the side of the cam cover had been broken an unknown time ago. So, without support, I’d hoped the lead would just remain clear. Apparently not.
However I was able to take the lead apart, cut out the damaged bit and reassemble. Lead slightly too short but will do as have ordered a replacement lead from Mr Retro after confessing my error to him. Dispatched the next day, good man.
I have since run the car to work and misfire gone again so TVR’s patented cylinder deactivation system is resolved. Back to full fitness. However will probably do new plugs as they are of unknown vintage as well.
To prevent this little hiccup happening again, I have reversed the top support bracket for the dipstick tube. This allows it to sit slightly more aft, which means the plug lead from the plug just in front can exit more vertically giving more clearance from the manifold.
Also, after some plastic research, have bought a small block of PTFE for mill / fashion a replacement lead support to ensure the leads maintain maximum clearance. PTFE appears to he one of the best heat resistant plastics up to 230 deg+ and having borrowed a mate’s IR camera thing, max temperature of cam cover surface is below half of that. See how it goes!
Old snakes’ wedding HT leads, which were a bit of a mix of ages and designs, removed.
Then all the plug extenders removed. Some are a bit corroded but have no idea about their serviceability.
And new Mr Retro leads on. Easy as that. So time for a quick test drive. Immediately noticeably better. From cold, the engine loses some of its stutter at low revs and once warm, misfire gone. Revs cleanly blah blah blah until a cough and misfire returns. Not good.
Anyway back home and bonnet open, one of the lovely new leads had twisted to touch a header pipe with the expected result. B***er,
I won’t post the photo of my scalded thumb as I tried to move it back. Entirely my own fault, the plastic Rover HT lead bracket, that sits attached to the side of the cam cover had been broken an unknown time ago. So, without support, I’d hoped the lead would just remain clear. Apparently not.
However I was able to take the lead apart, cut out the damaged bit and reassemble. Lead slightly too short but will do as have ordered a replacement lead from Mr Retro after confessing my error to him. Dispatched the next day, good man.
I have since run the car to work and misfire gone again so TVR’s patented cylinder deactivation system is resolved. Back to full fitness. However will probably do new plugs as they are of unknown vintage as well.
To prevent this little hiccup happening again, I have reversed the top support bracket for the dipstick tube. This allows it to sit slightly more aft, which means the plug lead from the plug just in front can exit more vertically giving more clearance from the manifold.
Also, after some plastic research, have bought a small block of PTFE for mill / fashion a replacement lead support to ensure the leads maintain maximum clearance. PTFE appears to he one of the best heat resistant plastics up to 230 deg+ and having borrowed a mate’s IR camera thing, max temperature of cam cover surface is below half of that. See how it goes!
Still fighting me all the way.
Ran beautifully since the last update. Until returning from Haynes with increasing misfire at cruise but not under acceleration. To the point a couple of days ago it wouldn’t idle without being rev-ed.
So starting logically from the plugs backwards. All out, sooty but probably due to lots of idling. Check all the connectors both ends of the ht leads. However noticed this single wire connector from the AFM to the front of the engine / distributor.
The wire is very brittle and the spade connectors corroded and barely attached. So replaced, the picture is my replacement, started and it ran perfectly. Yet to give it a proper drive and I’m sure someone will tell me what the wire does, but hopefully I am slowly beating it into submission.
Ran beautifully since the last update. Until returning from Haynes with increasing misfire at cruise but not under acceleration. To the point a couple of days ago it wouldn’t idle without being rev-ed.
So starting logically from the plugs backwards. All out, sooty but probably due to lots of idling. Check all the connectors both ends of the ht leads. However noticed this single wire connector from the AFM to the front of the engine / distributor.
The wire is very brittle and the spade connectors corroded and barely attached. So replaced, the picture is my replacement, started and it ran perfectly. Yet to give it a proper drive and I’m sure someone will tell me what the wire does, but hopefully I am slowly beating it into submission.
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff