Broke cylinder head stud - Need ideas
Discussion
I heard a slight wheezing noise after re-torquing the cylinder head, popped the hood, and noticed that the bolt that secures the coil #8 was loose and can see bubbling - water - dripping out. To my horror, the stud had snapped off in the block - this sucks!!
That is not the worst of it, I tried a "tap screw', after drilling etc and surprise that breaks off in the block and embedded in the stud - I think I am screwed.
Suggestions as looking at a diamond tipped drill bit + the screw extractor (should have used this first) heat that surrounding area and pray to the mini gods that it unravels.
Please if any thoughts more than welcome@@
Here's a picture of what I screwed up!!!!
That is not the worst of it, I tried a "tap screw', after drilling etc and surprise that breaks off in the block and embedded in the stud - I think I am screwed.
Suggestions as looking at a diamond tipped drill bit + the screw extractor (should have used this first) heat that surrounding area and pray to the mini gods that it unravels.
Please if any thoughts more than welcome@@
Here's a picture of what I screwed up!!!!
Both you fellows are awesome and thank you for the response.
The metal on the tap screw is "hardened" - with good reason and for my worst case scenario (lol) - so nothing but a "carbide" drill bit I'll get this thing out if at all. I spoke to a seasoned mobile machinest today and he recommended - as did lliner - that be extremely careful as I am wayyyy out of my depth on this type of repair and already messed it up the first time around. He proposed as follows:
- Take a carbide tipped centre punch and try and remove as much of the bolt as possible and limit damage to the threads;
- He can then come over and take a good look and see if it can be reamed out - block still in engine - and re-threaded (this is where the welding suggestion may come in but at the hands of an expert and certainly not me..;
- If the above does not work, pull the friggin block - I really want to avoid this - and take back to his shop to have it machined - on the plus side I could add the "lightened" fly wheel at that time - food for thought.
rufusruffcutt - I would not even attempt welding as again I am quickly realizing my limits when it comes to my little mini. I can do most things but leave the truly mechanical expertise stuff to the big boys!!
Plan for the rest of the week - centre punch the crap out of it and see if it moves - after heating it up a bit - ya never know the mini gods may shine on my backside yet - lol
Any other thoughts would be more than welcomed to hear..Boy, a real challenge with this one I tell ya!!
The metal on the tap screw is "hardened" - with good reason and for my worst case scenario (lol) - so nothing but a "carbide" drill bit I'll get this thing out if at all. I spoke to a seasoned mobile machinest today and he recommended - as did lliner - that be extremely careful as I am wayyyy out of my depth on this type of repair and already messed it up the first time around. He proposed as follows:
- Take a carbide tipped centre punch and try and remove as much of the bolt as possible and limit damage to the threads;
- He can then come over and take a good look and see if it can be reamed out - block still in engine - and re-threaded (this is where the welding suggestion may come in but at the hands of an expert and certainly not me..;
- If the above does not work, pull the friggin block - I really want to avoid this - and take back to his shop to have it machined - on the plus side I could add the "lightened" fly wheel at that time - food for thought.
rufusruffcutt - I would not even attempt welding as again I am quickly realizing my limits when it comes to my little mini. I can do most things but leave the truly mechanical expertise stuff to the big boys!!
Plan for the rest of the week - centre punch the crap out of it and see if it moves - after heating it up a bit - ya never know the mini gods may shine on my backside yet - lol
Any other thoughts would be more than welcomed to hear..Boy, a real challenge with this one I tell ya!!
Edited by Postve on Tuesday 14th January 18:16
Another question;
Regarding the studs - I ordered short and small and I assume that the front of the head takes the long and back takes the short. Reason I ask is the one that broke was position #8 - from my research - and was sized differently than the remaining for along the front?
I did not look carefully enough - rookie here - and now notice that the guy who installed the old head had various sizes??
Here's my new CST head prior to the stud breaking. (The one next to the heat tap snapped in the block
Regarding the studs - I ordered short and small and I assume that the front of the head takes the long and back takes the short. Reason I ask is the one that broke was position #8 - from my research - and was sized differently than the remaining for along the front?
I did not look carefully enough - rookie here - and now notice that the guy who installed the old head had various sizes??
Here's my new CST head prior to the stud breaking. (The one next to the heat tap snapped in the block
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