radius arms and subframes (again)

[sagalout]

Well a days holiday. It's sunny and I am in the dark old garage.
Help please, should I be able to turn the pivot pin within the radius arm by hand on the bearings or should they be TIGHT?.
Second, is there any reason why i cannot put the rear sub frame in "empty" then refit the arms trumpets, cones etc afterwards?
Thanks for your help.

[sagalout]

Thanks, these are the existing pins in the arms. They won't turn even with 2 nuts locked together on the end!
I have started to DRIFT them out but whilst they are moving, they're not exactly sliding out. Worried about damaging the threads with the drift now.
Strange thing is, the bearing surfaces are lubricated and the arms moved up and down in the subframe. Now I suppose that could be pivoting on the ends but wouldn't have thought so.
The sub frame was replaced with an after market one many years ago, it seems in good condition but a lot of surface rust. Thought about Hammerrite but think I'll use this black body sealer containing Waxoyl it might stay on the sub frame longer.
Checked the alignment with the frame off the car but on level ground and with the wheels back on.
1 wheel vertical, t'other neg camber by about 5mm.
Tracking 1/8 toe in. Thats before I start. Now assuming the sub frame goes back in square,it shouldn't be tooooo bad.....

[sagalout]

I have decided to knock them out, for better or worse and have a look. the bearing surfaces look fine from whats knocked out so far, perhaps the new bushes haven't been reamed out properly when the last sub frame was fitted.
Reamer, (hmmm) had a couple of adjustable reamers for MGB king pins in 1978. I wonder where they went to....
Quiz question. Why is there a solid bush at one end but needle rollers at the other??