Landrover 110 SW V8
Discussion
Hi All,
New to this so please excuse any mistakes.
So, I am the proud owner of an old Landrover 110 SW V8 1986 which has been dry stored for circa 15 years. In a mad moment of brain relapse I decided to restore the old girl. So far all has been going well and now near completion. Sadly the engine is suffering low oil pressure when hot, whilst cold pressure is as it should be but drops off when hot at idle. Please note it's only done 117,000 miles.
Before deciding to do a complete engine rebuild I thought it might be worth checking out the oil pump etc. My question is, is it possible to remove the oil pump and drive gears without removing the dizzy and timing cover and refit?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
New to this so please excuse any mistakes.
So, I am the proud owner of an old Landrover 110 SW V8 1986 which has been dry stored for circa 15 years. In a mad moment of brain relapse I decided to restore the old girl. So far all has been going well and now near completion. Sadly the engine is suffering low oil pressure when hot, whilst cold pressure is as it should be but drops off when hot at idle. Please note it's only done 117,000 miles.
Before deciding to do a complete engine rebuild I thought it might be worth checking out the oil pump etc. My question is, is it possible to remove the oil pump and drive gears without removing the dizzy and timing cover and refit?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hi,
Thanks for the info, great help, much appreciated.
Already using a good mineral oil. The warning light was flickering so fitted a gauge, (electric) to get a better reading, plus tested with an external gauge to make sure the reading was the same, which they were, just about. My plan was to remove the pump, check gaps for wear, clean up and or replace using a repair kit if needed plus I note the availability of an upraded release valve spring which is claimed gives up to an extra 10psi of pressure, which if works would solve the problem for now. No doubt I'll do a complete rebuild at some point but funds or time won't allow just yet. Have a workshop manual but it doesn't make it completely clear as to whether the job can be done without removal of front cover or dizzy etc so thought I'd check. As long as I can relocate the drive shaft on the gear with the dizzy I shouldn't have a problem, I hope, which was my concern.
Thanks for the info, great help, much appreciated.
Already using a good mineral oil. The warning light was flickering so fitted a gauge, (electric) to get a better reading, plus tested with an external gauge to make sure the reading was the same, which they were, just about. My plan was to remove the pump, check gaps for wear, clean up and or replace using a repair kit if needed plus I note the availability of an upraded release valve spring which is claimed gives up to an extra 10psi of pressure, which if works would solve the problem for now. No doubt I'll do a complete rebuild at some point but funds or time won't allow just yet. Have a workshop manual but it doesn't make it completely clear as to whether the job can be done without removal of front cover or dizzy etc so thought I'd check. As long as I can relocate the drive shaft on the gear with the dizzy I shouldn't have a problem, I hope, which was my concern.
Hi, Presently using Morris Lubricants Golden Film SAE 15w-50 Classic Motor Oil. I did debate over the 20w-50 version, D'ya think the 20w would make any improvement? I was under the impression that the lower number was for the cold viscosity/weight, which at present gives me a normal pressure reading, but I'm open to your suggestions.
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