A fresh look at the P38?
Discussion
Bought one on a whim on eBay. Sight unseen until I went to pick it up.
Recipe for disaster ?
Not at all. Everything works. It’s got fresh airbags.
It’s a 4.6 V8 and the block has only 20k on it - the old one was porous so it has a nice new RPI unit.
The whole car cost me roughly the price of a big service on a new RR.
It is a lovely, classic , ageless and classless car. Driven it 600 miles already and not a single issue.
If it does go wrong the parts you need cost pennies on eBay and every town seems to have a independent spanner man who knows them.
I am struggling to see any downsides here.
Nice ones are getting scarce. Buy one and buy wisely and I think you’ll be fine.
Colour me impressed. I’m enjoying the old chap - 21 years old and driving great.
It’s time to take a look at these old things especially given that RR classics are getting expensive now. The P38 is a much better drive.
TS.
Recipe for disaster ?
Not at all. Everything works. It’s got fresh airbags.
It’s a 4.6 V8 and the block has only 20k on it - the old one was porous so it has a nice new RPI unit.
The whole car cost me roughly the price of a big service on a new RR.
It is a lovely, classic , ageless and classless car. Driven it 600 miles already and not a single issue.
If it does go wrong the parts you need cost pennies on eBay and every town seems to have a independent spanner man who knows them.
I am struggling to see any downsides here.
Nice ones are getting scarce. Buy one and buy wisely and I think you’ll be fine.
Colour me impressed. I’m enjoying the old chap - 21 years old and driving great.
It’s time to take a look at these old things especially given that RR classics are getting expensive now. The P38 is a much better drive.
TS.
There are perfectly good ones on the bay for 2-5k.
Be careful and a bit lucky and you’ll be good.
I’m used to old cars and new. Also have a prewar Alvis, a 1 yr old Grand Cherokee and a TVR wedge.
This old P38 is so good I really struggle to see the point of newer ones. Even if I won the lotto I would simply keep it. No envy from other drivers. Yet it wafts along with a burble from the V8.
Maybe I’ve been lucky. I know they CAN be troublesome. But new cars be troublesome too and the P38 is cheap to fix.
I’ve just replaced the track rod and it was a piece of cake. And the part was £30.
I’m going to enjoy tinkering with it over the winter. Heck I may even buy another one.
🙂
Be careful and a bit lucky and you’ll be good.
I’m used to old cars and new. Also have a prewar Alvis, a 1 yr old Grand Cherokee and a TVR wedge.
This old P38 is so good I really struggle to see the point of newer ones. Even if I won the lotto I would simply keep it. No envy from other drivers. Yet it wafts along with a burble from the V8.
Maybe I’ve been lucky. I know they CAN be troublesome. But new cars be troublesome too and the P38 is cheap to fix.
I’ve just replaced the track rod and it was a piece of cake. And the part was £30.
I’m going to enjoy tinkering with it over the winter. Heck I may even buy another one.
🙂
Buy on condition not age.
Air suspension and dodgy electrics are the main issues. All are pretty easy to diagnose and fix however. The web is packed with info and support.
Parts are plentiful and cheap.
4.6 is the one to go for. It is no thirstier than the 4.0.
Rust is not the same big issue it is on the previous RR classic but have a good poke around the chassis.
Some say the post 2000 models are better because they have Bosch electrics ( often referred to as Thor ) rather than Lucas ( GEMS). I don’t personally think it makes much difference and you should buy on condition.
The headlining inside sags. This is easily fixed - mine is starting to go and I’ve found a great guy who will come and put a new one in for 250. It will look new inside then as the leather is already lovely after I restored it.
Air suspension and dodgy electrics are the main issues. All are pretty easy to diagnose and fix however. The web is packed with info and support.
Parts are plentiful and cheap.
4.6 is the one to go for. It is no thirstier than the 4.0.
Rust is not the same big issue it is on the previous RR classic but have a good poke around the chassis.
Some say the post 2000 models are better because they have Bosch electrics ( often referred to as Thor ) rather than Lucas ( GEMS). I don’t personally think it makes much difference and you should buy on condition.
The headlining inside sags. This is easily fixed - mine is starting to go and I’ve found a great guy who will come and put a new one in for 250. It will look new inside then as the leather is already lovely after I restored it.
Engine and gearbox are pretty strong. Some had issues with liners and porous blocks but they were usually fixed inside the first few years of life. If the engines sounds good, pulls well and the gearbox works then I would not worry. A replacement gearbox is only £200.
Suspension Airbags are £220 new for 4. They aren’t that hard to fit. A local Indy Land Rover guy would know the job inside out.
Electrics can be a bit trickier. If all the warning lights are off then happy days. If you have an alert sign on the dash then the web can help. Some of the electrics can be fixed with a local Indy and a laptop ( such as the air suspension deciding to give up and needing a reset ). I did some research and realised that these problems aren’t as big as they are made out to be. And there are cars out there where many of the problems have been ironed out over the years. They are a bit like TVRs in this respect !
Suspension Airbags are £220 new for 4. They aren’t that hard to fit. A local Indy Land Rover guy would know the job inside out.
Electrics can be a bit trickier. If all the warning lights are off then happy days. If you have an alert sign on the dash then the web can help. Some of the electrics can be fixed with a local Indy and a laptop ( such as the air suspension deciding to give up and needing a reset ). I did some research and realised that these problems aren’t as big as they are made out to be. And there are cars out there where many of the problems have been ironed out over the years. They are a bit like TVRs in this respect !
The Bearmach Hawkeye diagnostic gadget is a wise thing to own. Costs £300 and it will diagnose and fix many of the electrical issues - most of which are often down to sensors playing up rather than hardware. Buy one of these and it will pay for itself pretty quickly.
It plugs into a port by your knee. Many of the things that used to cost a fortune at a dealer can be relatively easily fixed at home.
I think I may buy a second p38 as winter project. I am enjoying the tinkering aspect in the garage and there is nothing too daunting for the average spannerman.
It plugs into a port by your knee. Many of the things that used to cost a fortune at a dealer can be relatively easily fixed at home.
I think I may buy a second p38 as winter project. I am enjoying the tinkering aspect in the garage and there is nothing too daunting for the average spannerman.
DeepEnd said:
Thanks for the balance - can you flesh this out?
Is it the quality of parts or water ingress/general ageing of electrics/poor build?
I have in my mind they are still quite simple early 90s cars but laptop and cable perhaps suggests not quite that simple!
If its the odd £30-50 part then fair enough - if it is chase a problem via £1000 black box replacement (!), that is quite another!
A diagnostic gadget like the aforementioned Hawkeye can do away with the need for expensive dealer visits. Is it the quality of parts or water ingress/general ageing of electrics/poor build?
I have in my mind they are still quite simple early 90s cars but laptop and cable perhaps suggests not quite that simple!
If its the odd £30-50 part then fair enough - if it is chase a problem via £1000 black box replacement (!), that is quite another!
Even electrical bits like the central black box under the seat can be acquired quite cheaply now.
That’s not to downplay the issue of electrics - but frankly all modern cars these days have a bunch of ECUs and control units to go wrong. At least with the Landy it is possible to get the kit and be informed and even do some of it yourself if you want. And there is a mass of support on tinterweb.
DeepEnd said:
Thanks for the balance - can you flesh this out?
Is it the quality of parts or water ingress/general ageing of electrics/poor build?
I have in my mind they are still quite simple early 90s cars but laptop and cable perhaps suggests not quite that simple!
If its the odd £30-50 part then fair enough - if it is chase a problem via £1000 black box replacement (!), that is quite another!
A diagnostic gadget like the aforementioned Hawkeye can do away with the need for expensive dealer visits. Is it the quality of parts or water ingress/general ageing of electrics/poor build?
I have in my mind they are still quite simple early 90s cars but laptop and cable perhaps suggests not quite that simple!
If its the odd £30-50 part then fair enough - if it is chase a problem via £1000 black box replacement (!), that is quite another!
Even electrical bits like the central black box under the seat can be acquired quite cheaply now.
That’s not to downplay the issue of electrics - but frankly all modern cars these days have a bunch of ECUs and control units to go wrong. At least with the Landy it is possible to get the kit and be informed and even do some of it yourself if you want. And there is a mass of support on tinterweb.
bakerstreet said:
Not really. 996s droped to £8k but that was quite a while ago and I don't think you can find one for anything under 10-11k now. The demand will always be more for a 911 even if it is a 996. I actually really like the 996.
RRC Classics have been expensive for a while. I remember when you could pick one up for £1500. Think that is more like £3-4k now and thats if you can find a good one.
I think the P38 will eventually become a desirable classic, but it will only be the top end models (Westminster and AB).
RRC classics can be 10k for a good one now. Exceptional ones more. 5k buys you a tatty one. Less than 5k and they are broken for spares.RRC Classics have been expensive for a while. I remember when you could pick one up for £1500. Think that is more like £3-4k now and thats if you can find a good one.
I think the P38 will eventually become a desirable classic, but it will only be the top end models (Westminster and AB).
No reason to doubt the P38 will not go the same way.
Nice to see people using P38s and keeping the old girls moving.
eBay is giving away broken and tired ones these days. Good ones are starting to be appreciated.
Having had l322 and p38 I can understand how the l322 is “better” but the p38 has more character. And the p38 engine sounds so much nicer IMO.
I’m thoroughly enjoying my 4.6hse and it has not put a foot wrong yet. It has its ideosyncracies but I put them down to “character”. Have a Hawkeye pro on the way to fend off the dreaded error codes and provide some peace of mind over the winter.
Also got some minty Comet wheels on eBay to put on with fresh new grabbers. I’m told this winter will be a cold one. Bring it on !
eBay is giving away broken and tired ones these days. Good ones are starting to be appreciated.
Having had l322 and p38 I can understand how the l322 is “better” but the p38 has more character. And the p38 engine sounds so much nicer IMO.
I’m thoroughly enjoying my 4.6hse and it has not put a foot wrong yet. It has its ideosyncracies but I put them down to “character”. Have a Hawkeye pro on the way to fend off the dreaded error codes and provide some peace of mind over the winter.
Also got some minty Comet wheels on eBay to put on with fresh new grabbers. I’m told this winter will be a cold one. Bring it on !
SlimRick said:
Well, my £900 P38 failed its MOT yesterday.
Looks like I'll have to stump up £10 for a UJ and £3 for an indicator bulb. Of course, it had the obligatory "Oil leak" advisory too.
Excellent. Top job. Looks like I'll have to stump up £10 for a UJ and £3 for an indicator bulb. Of course, it had the obligatory "Oil leak" advisory too.
My p38 had a warning light for a failed rear light a week ago. Sure enough the nearside rear was not working. One solid thump with my fist and its been fine since.
I have just got a Lynx Evo, reset the HEVAC and now the air con works great !
Loving these cars at the moment. And the 4.6 sounds so good...
CAPP0 said:
Sounds a good recommendation but I'm pretty anti-diesel at the best of times, and I've passengered in a diesel P38 and that's a definite no! Thanks anyway.
Good luck finding one. Nice 4.6HSE are getting harder to find - the variance in prices is quite startling. Buttons for a beaten-up one and scary money being asked for minty ones. The few nice ones left probably likely to tick up in value maybe.chasingracecars said:
First of the lights is handbrake on. Will move with it on!!
Second light is ABS and third is traction control. These go out after car has done a few meters.
I also noticed the car was showing the air suspension between easy access mode and normal ride height.
And sensors are about £20 but it could be one of four or more complicated. Air suspension could be a number of factors. It’s quite a bit for the P38 however prices are on the up. £3k should find you one with no visible faults showing. Plenty of help on Range Rover pub too.
Yep one of the joys of P38 ownership are the warning lights and how they all light up and then systematically go out as you drive a few metres. Or not as the case may be. Mine is behaving very well and all the lights go out within about 20 feet of driving. Second light is ABS and third is traction control. These go out after car has done a few meters.
I also noticed the car was showing the air suspension between easy access mode and normal ride height.
And sensors are about £20 but it could be one of four or more complicated. Air suspension could be a number of factors. It’s quite a bit for the P38 however prices are on the up. £3k should find you one with no visible faults showing. Plenty of help on Range Rover pub too.
The air suspension is not nearly as scary as it is made out to be. Owning a diagnostic device like a Hawkeye or a Lynx Evo Pro is a good idea even if they do cost a couple of hundred.
Nice motor mate.
I have had my 4.6 HSE for a few months now and it is going really well, without a hitch.
Used a Lynx Evo to reset the blend motors on the air con and its all working peachy. Everything else is spot on.
Outrageously good bargains these cars, when you get a good one. As good ones get harder to find, they'll not lose you any money either if you need to sell. I must say, however, for the purposes I use mine ( rural area and trips of 60 miles or so in the vicinity ) a newer L322 ( or even brand new !! ). would not do things any better.
I have had my 4.6 HSE for a few months now and it is going really well, without a hitch.
Used a Lynx Evo to reset the blend motors on the air con and its all working peachy. Everything else is spot on.
Outrageously good bargains these cars, when you get a good one. As good ones get harder to find, they'll not lose you any money either if you need to sell. I must say, however, for the purposes I use mine ( rural area and trips of 60 miles or so in the vicinity ) a newer L322 ( or even brand new !! ). would not do things any better.
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