Range rover flapper problems
Discussion
Hi everyone,
I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out with a few problems with my '87 3.5l EFI lump. It's overfueling badly, ie: choking itself when left to idle and black smoke out of the exhaust.
I've checked the usual suspects, coolant temperature sensor reads ok, extra air valve operates correctly, and the throttle position sensor is giving good readings apart from the test between the green and yellow wires, which should give a result of 4.3 v, i'm getting 3.6 v, i've swapped the TPS (twice!) and still get the same result, which appears to be what the ECU is supplying it. While I don't think this is causing the overfueling issue, could anyone shed light on why this may be happening, it always used to give the correct reading. I've also checked fuel pressure, approx 30 psi and it holds pressure for about 40 mins with engine switched off, so i'm guessing the injectors are ok. This is as far as i've got, I need to retest the air flow meter, but the car hasn't really been run since it's last test.
If you need anymore info please ask,
Cheers, Ratty
'71 109" series IIa station wagon, with '87 3.5 Efi V8
I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out with a few problems with my '87 3.5l EFI lump. It's overfueling badly, ie: choking itself when left to idle and black smoke out of the exhaust.
I've checked the usual suspects, coolant temperature sensor reads ok, extra air valve operates correctly, and the throttle position sensor is giving good readings apart from the test between the green and yellow wires, which should give a result of 4.3 v, i'm getting 3.6 v, i've swapped the TPS (twice!) and still get the same result, which appears to be what the ECU is supplying it. While I don't think this is causing the overfueling issue, could anyone shed light on why this may be happening, it always used to give the correct reading. I've also checked fuel pressure, approx 30 psi and it holds pressure for about 40 mins with engine switched off, so i'm guessing the injectors are ok. This is as far as i've got, I need to retest the air flow meter, but the car hasn't really been run since it's last test.
If you need anymore info please ask,
Cheers, Ratty
'71 109" series IIa station wagon, with '87 3.5 Efi V8
Thanks Paintman, I have swapped the ECU for another to check, although i'm not 100% on how good the 2nd ECU was, it did give exactly the same result on the TPS test, the odds of two seperate ECU's giving the same fault are pretty unlikely (although possible), i'm going to try going through the EFI tests in the manual with the original ECU and the 2nd one just to see if there are any differences.
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
A quick update, I seem to have cured the problem for the moment, turns out the idle control screw, and mixture screws were way out, I sprayed some carb cleaner into the bypass channels and adjusted the idle screw to 2 and a half turns from full in (it was 8 turns!) And did the same with the mixture screw, the engine now fires and goes to fast idle straight away, CO is probably still out but until I can afford a gas tester I can live with that, but the idle seems good, gonna get a timing gun on it next weekend and set it to 850 rpm as recommended.
The weird thing is I've never touched the screws before, they've been that way since I got the engine, maybe the bypass channels were blocked with crud, or they were set that way to compensate for a previous air leak??
Thanks for everyones help and if I figure out more i'll let you know.
Cheers, Ratty
The weird thing is I've never touched the screws before, they've been that way since I got the engine, maybe the bypass channels were blocked with crud, or they were set that way to compensate for a previous air leak??
Thanks for everyones help and if I figure out more i'll let you know.
Cheers, Ratty
Edited by Ratty109 on Sunday 4th August 18:25
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