what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
Hippea said:
I didn't think the early cable throttle cars met ULEZ but obviously I'm wrong. 
I was told by Porsche UK that all 99, and newer, cars should meet ULEZ.
FriedMarsBar said:
Hippea said:
I didn't think the early cable throttle cars met ULEZ but obviously I'm wrong. I was told by Porsche UK that all 99, and newer, cars should meet ULEZ.
shalmaneser said:
FriedMarsBar said:
Hippea said:
I didn't think the early cable throttle cars met ULEZ but obviously I'm wrong. I was told by Porsche UK that all 99, and newer, cars should meet ULEZ.
shalmaneser said:
Mine is cable throttle and is ulez compliant. Need to apply for a cert from Porsche though.
It just surprises me that the Porsche told me 99 and onwards were compliant but I guess they meant gauranteed compliant.That car will most likely need a suspension refresh, along with a few other jobs, and if I had more time it might be something I'm interested in as a project.
FriedMarsBar said:
shalmaneser said:
Mine is cable throttle and is ulez compliant. Need to apply for a cert from Porsche though.
It just surprises me that the Porsche told me 99 and onwards were compliant but I guess they meant gauranteed compliant.That car will most likely need a suspension refresh, along with a few other jobs, and if I had more time it might be something I'm interested in as a project.
FriedMarsBar said:
It just surprises me that the Porsche told me 99 and onwards were compliant but I guess they meant gauranteed compliant.
That car will most likely need a suspension refresh, along with a few other jobs, and if I had more time it might be something I'm interested in as a project.
Especially as my 2001 manual isn't ULEZ, its two over the Nox limit according to the Certificate of Conformity. That car will most likely need a suspension refresh, along with a few other jobs, and if I had more time it might be something I'm interested in as a project.
ATM said:
Fast Bug said:
Does anyone know if you can still buy the door membrane sheets from Porsche? My passenger door bottom is rather damp, so assuming it's the membrane that's knackered
Don't understand why you'd need new. Just patch any gaps or tears with gaffa tape.
#4 LEFT SIDE, 99655583104 Price: £64.70
#4 RIGHT SIDE, 99655583204 Price: £64.70
Not as expensive as I'd feared. Mine are chewed up but no leaking, might invest at some point. Cheaper from the dealer, that's Design911 prices. They're even in stock!
https://www.design911.co.uk/diagrams/d/40979/
Mikeeb said:
FriedMarsBar said:
It just surprises me that the Porsche told me 99 and onwards were compliant but I guess they meant gauranteed compliant.
That car will most likely need a suspension refresh, along with a few other jobs, and if I had more time it might be something I'm interested in as a project.
Especially as my 2001 manual isn't ULEZ, its two over the Nox limit according to the Certificate of Conformity. That car will most likely need a suspension refresh, along with a few other jobs, and if I had more time it might be something I'm interested in as a project.
brownspeed said:
re; door membrane repair; I bought some self adhesive rubber seal strip, scraped off the original from the plate and stuck the new one on. that was about 4 years ago and it's still fine
For the edges I believe butyl strip is best. You can buy it in rolls. I was suggesting gaffa tape for rips or tears in the main sections.Fast Bug said:
I'll see if I can find time to pop the door panel off this weekend and see how good/bad they are. £60 odd for a new one isn't as bad as I thought it would be
If the door is leaking then the membrane isn't the cause. It is likely the seal between the membrane and the metal door. This would not require a new membrane. You just jeed to create a new seal between the membrane and the metal door however you choose.If the membrane is damaged or split somewhere then I would repair with gaffa tape. You could of course replace the membrane but I have never seen one bad enough to be replaced. It just sits behind the door card and there is no way for it to get damaged. Unless someone more ham fisted has been in there and done it. I perhaps incorrectly assumed most owners here knew more about this.
Here are a couple of pics from my 986 blog. You can see the membrane seal was clearly broken. And this was leaking. I just applied some butyl strip to create a better seal and reassembled the door.
Is this helpful or do you already know all of this and just want new membranes?
That's handy to know thank you. I shuffled the cars around yesterday so I could take it to work this morning and the car smelled a little damp and the bottom of the passenger door car is wet. I just assumed the membrane was damaged, will pop the panel off Sunday and have a closer look.
Off topic it's parked between a CLA and a GLE and it looks tiny, even next to the CLA!
Off topic it's parked between a CLA and a GLE and it looks tiny, even next to the CLA!
Fast Bug said:
I shuffled the cars around yesterday so I could take it to work this morning and the car smelled a little damp and the bottom of the passenger door car is wet. I just assumed the membrane was damaged, will pop the panel off Sunday and have a closer look.
I recommend removing the door card and bringing into the house to dry out properly. You should be able to operate the door latch from inside by pulling the cord which was attached to the internal door release. Or you can always drop the window and reach out to the exterior handle. So I'm saying you can still use the car without the door card. Then I would have a feel around for any more damp. I have damp under the driver side seat on my 986 which is proving Impossible to shift. No idea if this is the weather making it hard to dry out or I still have moisture ingress.
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