MR2 MK3 PROJECT
Discussion
Akayfortyseven said:
Ilovejapcrap said:
not far of the point when coilovers are cheaper, I just prefer a conventional setup for mainly road use.
Yeah... I bought mine for majority road use so Im thinking Tein/KYB despite not being far off coilover money!Mines burning a bit of oil so may need to sort that in the future.
What year is yours ?
I have one of these (2000/W) that is burning oil, was very close on MOT emissions test last week.
I assume the simplest / cheapest solution is to replace the engine, someone mentioned another engine that fits earlier in this thread. Can anyone let me know the options?
Any other changes needed when changing engines?
I assume the simplest / cheapest solution is to replace the engine, someone mentioned another engine that fits earlier in this thread. Can anyone let me know the options?
Any other changes needed when changing engines?
aland75 said:
I have one of these (2000/W) that is burning oil, was very close on MOT emissions test last week.
I assume the simplest / cheapest solution is to replace the engine, someone mentioned another engine that fits earlier in this thread. Can anyone let me know the options?
Any other changes needed when changing engines?
2zz from a Celica 190.you need the box to suit it. Quite a few people fit them join the FB mr2 page. It's possibly more economic sense to buy already converted cars though and let someone else chuck money at it as they never fetch what people expect afterward. I assume the simplest / cheapest solution is to replace the engine, someone mentioned another engine that fits earlier in this thread. Can anyone let me know the options?
Any other changes needed when changing engines?
200Plus Club said:
2zz from a Celica 190.you need the box to suit it. Quite a few people fit them join the FB mr2 page. It's possibly more economic sense to buy already converted cars though and let someone else chuck money at it as they never fetch what people expect afterward.
Thanks. I've sent FB page join request. aland75 said:
I have one of these (2000/W) that is burning oil, was very close on MOT emissions test last week.
I assume the simplest / cheapest solution is to replace the engine, someone mentioned another engine that fits earlier in this thread. Can anyone let me know the options?
Any other changes needed when changing engines?
If rest of car is nice and you like it I’d look at rebuilding it to be honest. It would be like new internally, well better than new as the original issue would have been addressed. I assume the simplest / cheapest solution is to replace the engine, someone mentioned another engine that fits earlier in this thread. Can anyone let me know the options?
Any other changes needed when changing engines?
2zz engines are indeed a common swap, but it’s not just a case of engine you have different ECU and all sorts to do.
I personally think the standard engine is ample.
Thanks both.
The rest of the car isn't exactly mint, but my wife is rather attached to it as it was her dad's car, which she inherited when he died, so it'll get repaired!
It's scraped through the last few MOTs on emissions, and 2 years ago a new CAT improved matters, but the oil usage has now got much worse so I need to address it before the winter.
If someone can point me to a decent original engine that's a straight swap, that could be done in a weekend - as opposed to several weeks rebuilding the existing one. The clutch is original (116k miles) so i'll replace that when apart.
There were advisories for rear shocks leaking, front springs corroded and poor handbrake performance.
Rear shocks are straightforward enough (any preferred brands?), front spring corrosion i'll ignore for now, and handbrake has previously had new cables and is adjusted to the limit, so I assume I may have to replace the calipers next?
The rest of the car isn't exactly mint, but my wife is rather attached to it as it was her dad's car, which she inherited when he died, so it'll get repaired!
It's scraped through the last few MOTs on emissions, and 2 years ago a new CAT improved matters, but the oil usage has now got much worse so I need to address it before the winter.
If someone can point me to a decent original engine that's a straight swap, that could be done in a weekend - as opposed to several weeks rebuilding the existing one. The clutch is original (116k miles) so i'll replace that when apart.
There were advisories for rear shocks leaking, front springs corroded and poor handbrake performance.
Rear shocks are straightforward enough (any preferred brands?), front spring corrosion i'll ignore for now, and handbrake has previously had new cables and is adjusted to the limit, so I assume I may have to replace the calipers next?
Edited by aland75 on Saturday 28th July 11:48
Escy said:
Rebuilding the standard engine makes no sense when you can buy a replacement 1zz for a couple hundred.
Except for a little more than a second hand one you'd have one with the oil fault issues built out, new cam-chain,water pump, valve seals and tolerances etc basically a like new engine. I get your point if your looking at it as throw away, but for those attached to them its a good move.anyway back on topic i've sent my brakes away for sorting too:
https://www.bcs-automotive.co.uk/
I have one of these, and have been running it for a few years now. It's a great little machine, although occasionally a boot would come in handy. Always thought a Saab turbo would be a lovely engine in these.
Anyway I've put 2 engines in mine - bought mine with a known bad engine,and changed it. Unfortunately (and stupidly), I boiled it when the rad failed. For £50 or something, it's well worth changing that. The last engine I've fitted was from a corrolla 2008 with apparently 40k miles. (yeah really).
It does run very nicely though.
This year I've had to change both rear callipers, discs and pads, as well as the bloody handbrake cables that are a bit of a mare.
The front steering knuckle joint has been replaced, and when I was there, I found the front sub frame in poor condition, so I sorted that out as well.
Next on the list is a suspension replacement , and possibly a new exhaust, depending on getting through it's MOT or not.
I really love the little car, and while it's not the fastest thing on the road, there's not a lot to touch it on twisty roads, and especially not while doing close to 40 mpg. An updated one of these is what the GT86 should have been - convertible, light, basic and with 200 BHP.
Anyway I've put 2 engines in mine - bought mine with a known bad engine,and changed it. Unfortunately (and stupidly), I boiled it when the rad failed. For £50 or something, it's well worth changing that. The last engine I've fitted was from a corrolla 2008 with apparently 40k miles. (yeah really).
It does run very nicely though.
This year I've had to change both rear callipers, discs and pads, as well as the bloody handbrake cables that are a bit of a mare.
The front steering knuckle joint has been replaced, and when I was there, I found the front sub frame in poor condition, so I sorted that out as well.
Next on the list is a suspension replacement , and possibly a new exhaust, depending on getting through it's MOT or not.
I really love the little car, and while it's not the fastest thing on the road, there's not a lot to touch it on twisty roads, and especially not while doing close to 40 mpg. An updated one of these is what the GT86 should have been - convertible, light, basic and with 200 BHP.
Escy said:
Wow, you've put a lot of effort into it.
You probably torqued the head up wrong (perhaps some debris in the thread or a bad head bolt) rather than the gasket being at fault.
What was the total cost for repairing the 1ZZ and what made you want to go that way? You can buy a decent engine for £200 so it seems a strange decision to me.
No it was the gasket.You probably torqued the head up wrong (perhaps some debris in the thread or a bad head bolt) rather than the gasket being at fault.
What was the total cost for repairing the 1ZZ and what made you want to go that way? You can buy a decent engine for £200 so it seems a strange decision to me.
I’d never rebuilt an engine so thought for the money I’m going to enhance my knowledge far more than just reading about it.
Also the 200 quid one could have same issue at anytime, contrary to popular belief that facelift engines had the fault cured, they made it slightly better with different scrape ring setup. Only the very last few actually had the extra holed pistons fully solving issue.
So I’ve learnt a lot and got a more or less fresh engine out of the deal.
d.
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