Common MX5 Faults / Buying Guide
Archive #17455559
It seems as this forum (and the cars ) become more and more popular that the usual "what to look for when I buy" threads become more and more frequent. So How about a Wiki containing the information and/or links to the other sources of information on the owners club site etc. if we can't be bothered to type it out again.
I've started us off but often find I don't know as much as I like to think. So fill it in if you like it. Or let it drop down the list if you don't.
09/03/10 - added a couple of notes. SH.
30/03/11 - added a few notes/made a few amendments. Lazza.
Whether they were badged as an Mazda MX5, a Eunos Roadster or a Mazda Miata; all the cars rolled off the same production lines in Japan. The main differences relate to trim and options.
The Mk1 is the original, and some say the best, of the MX-5s. Launched in 1989 it revived the spirit of popular British sports cars of the 1960s but thankfully combined this with a typically Japanese attention to detail. The result was a simple, light, two seater which aimed to offer an entertaining drive while being cheap to buy and maintain. The original 1.6l had 115bhp until 1994 when it was lowered to 89bhp to seperate it from the 1.8l. This had 131bhp until 1996 when it increased to 133bhp.
The Mk2 was updated in 1998 (or 1999 for Miatas). Fixed headlights replaced the Mk1 retractable ones, due to pedestrian safety regulations. Although there was an increase in power performance is very similar to the Mk1 as the Mk2 is heavier. The wheels, tyres and brakes were upgraded as well as the interior. In 2001 the Mk2.5 was released, which had space for front fog lights, a revised interior, new seats, a slightly modified engine with VVT (resulting in 143bhp or 130bhp in the USA). The 1.6l engine had 110bhp.
- The oil gauge for later NA and NB cars is a dummy gauge, and more use than a light. Early Mk1 1.6 have a real oil pressure gauge.
- Clean the drainage holes regularly. Lots will come up if you use search online for drainage holes. It's best to clean from the bottom as cleaning from the top can dislodge the pipes.
- Timing belt change at 60,000 miles.
I've started us off but often find I don't know as much as I like to think. So fill it in if you like it. Or let it drop down the list if you don't.
09/03/10 - added a couple of notes. SH.
30/03/11 - added a few notes/made a few amendments. Lazza.
Sites with useful info
Description | Link |
---|---|
Model Specifications (Owners Club) | http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/content/specifications.aspx |
Technical area of US-based site with details on pretty much anything - bodywork, electrical and mechanical. | http://www.miata.net/garage |
Model-by-model guide to UK special editions | http://ox.mx5oc.co.uk/guide_mx5.htm |
Model-by-model guide to Japanese special editions | http://ox.mx5oc.co.uk/guide_eunos.htm |
How can I do a diagnostics check on my Mk1? | http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/204.aspx |
Where can I get a proper wheel alignment check done? | http://www.alignmycar.co.uk/ |
Common faults
Part | Description | Related models |
---|---|---|
Brake Calipers | Brake callipers are known to seize on. Re-con parts are readily available. (Note I've just rebuilt a set of fronts, cost to refurb aprx £60, for all parts plus fluid. cost of re-con 'exchange' calipers likely to be £150+. SH) Rears are a "weak point" - the handbrake linkage gathers crap and mud over time and can stick, good practice to give the linkage a clean and spray with oil when you have the back wheels off | MK 1, 2 and 2.5 comes on with age |
Sill Rust | The rear section of the sills will tend to rust after 10 or so years. More common on UK cars. | MK1 and older MK2 models |
Elec. Windows | Electric windows get slow and stick over time, if they still go up and down fully the runners just need dousing in silicone spray grease from halfords | MK1 and older MK2 models |
Oil Leaks | The o-ring on the CAS sensor on the back on the cylinder head can perish and start to leak. On 1.8 cars the oil will drip onto the coolant feed pipes for the heater matrix, eventually making them burst. Also the Cam-Cover-Gasket can start to weep oil, usually if not replaced when doing the cambelt. both are DIY jobs to replace with a bit of care. How-to guide: http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/p/308/494.aspx... | MK1 |
Clutch Slave Cylinder | The slave cylinder can sometimes fail and the clutch pedal will sink to the floor. A replacement unit can be had for around £30 and can be fitted in around half an hour. How to guide here: http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/p/200/361.aspx... | Mk1 |
Wet boot | Often caused by a perished rain rail which is the plastic channel that sandwiches the lower edge of the hood and guides water to the drain holes. Replacements can either be fabricated at home or bought from specialist websites. Fitting takes around half an hour | Mk1 |
Water in sills | Drain holes can become blocked, trapping water inside the sills. 5 minutes spent clearing the drains with a wire coathanger should fix it | Mk1 |
Transmission tunnel gets warm | This can get quite noticeable and can sometimes be remedied by changing the rubber turret boot that sits under the centre console. Over time these can perish and allow heat from the drivetrain into the cabin. Simple and cheap to fix. | Mk1 |
Noisey tappets | There is often noticeable tappet noise when starting up. Perfectly nomal for this to last a few minutes, but investigate further if it persists. An oil change is often all that's needed, although it could indicate worn or damaged HLAs. (Note - after multiple oil changes with semi-synthetic I was still getting HLA noise when hot. Changed to Mobil 1 fully synthetic and problem has completely disappeared - this is on a higher mileage Mk1 1.8. SH) | Mk1 |
no tickover when warming up | Change the green temp sensor at the rear of the engine block | Mk1 |
Wing mirrors falling off | Dismantle and replace bolt/nut that fixes mirror to the door. http://www.autolinkmx5.com/door-mirror-repair-bolt... | Mk1 |
Idle droop | Idle rate drops very low when in neutral, this can occur after disconnecting the battery. How-to reset guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html | Mk1 |
Misfire | Quite common for HT leads to go faulty particularly the shortest it seems(cheap option). Or it could be the coil pack. (More expensive) | Mk1 / MK2 |
Import or UK car?
Whether they were badged as an Mazda MX5, a Eunos Roadster or a Mazda Miata; all the cars rolled off the same production lines in Japan. The main differences relate to trim and options.
Japanese Imports
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Japanese shaken tests mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. | Evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey to the UK, although this doesn't necessarily mean they haven't been serviced. If the car was still in Japan when it reached 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed. |
The bodywork and chassis are generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. | Insurance will cost more than a UK car. |
Average annual mileages are usually lower in Japan. | Any total-loss damage the car may have suffered in Japan will not show up on an HPI check. |
Most cars had higher trim levels than their UK counterparts. Torsen LSDs are more common, as is air conditioning, power steering, etc. | Please add your comments |
There were some decently equipped limited editions such as the RS Ltd, The M2 cars, the S Spec, the V Spec. | Please add your comments |
UK cars
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Better chance of getting a full service history. | Not necessarily a drawback but some cars had pretty meagre specifications and sometimes had steel wheels, no power steering, no air conditioning, etc. |
Lower insurance costs | Some of the 1.6 cars were detuned to less than 90bhp rather than the usual 115bhp. |
Which model?
Mk1 (1989 - 1998)
The Mk1 is the original, and some say the best, of the MX-5s. Launched in 1989 it revived the spirit of popular British sports cars of the 1960s but thankfully combined this with a typically Japanese attention to detail. The result was a simple, light, two seater which aimed to offer an entertaining drive while being cheap to buy and maintain. The original 1.6l had 115bhp until 1994 when it was lowered to 89bhp to seperate it from the 1.8l. This had 131bhp until 1996 when it increased to 133bhp.
1.6 engined cars
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Please add your comments | Please add your comments |
1.8 engined cars
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
The 1.8 offers a useful power increase over the 1.6 and the larger engine brings with it other benefits - better chassis bracing, an uprated diff, etc | Fuel consumption suffers slightly |
Mk2/2.5 (1998 [1999 for Miatas] - ????)
The Mk2 was updated in 1998 (or 1999 for Miatas). Fixed headlights replaced the Mk1 retractable ones, due to pedestrian safety regulations. Although there was an increase in power performance is very similar to the Mk1 as the Mk2 is heavier. The wheels, tyres and brakes were upgraded as well as the interior. In 2001 the Mk2.5 was released, which had space for front fog lights, a revised interior, new seats, a slightly modified engine with VVT (resulting in 143bhp or 130bhp in the USA). The 1.6l engine had 110bhp.
1.6 engined cars
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Same engine as Mk2 based on original 1.6 | A bit underpowered |
Please add your comments | Please add your comments |
1.8 engine cars
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Engine now has VVT (Mk2.5) which pushed power up to 146bhp and kills less polar bears | Please add your comments |
Please add your comments | Please add your comments |
1.8 Sport
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Same engine as above but adds 6-speed 'box, LSD and creature comforts such as heated leather seats | Heaviest MX-5 |
Please add your comments | Please add your comments |
Mk3/3.5 (2006 - present)
Please add a brief description of the Mk3/3.5Please add an engine size
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
Please add your comments | Please add your comments |
Please add your comments | Please add your comments |
General Issues
- The oil gauge for later NA and NB cars is a dummy gauge, and more use than a light. Early Mk1 1.6 have a real oil pressure gauge.
- Clean the drainage holes regularly. Lots will come up if you use search online for drainage holes. It's best to clean from the bottom as cleaning from the top can dislodge the pipes.
- Timing belt change at 60,000 miles.