Changing a camshaft with engine in the car ?
Discussion
Hello from Paris
I deal actually with some questions about the camshaft. Is it possible to change this part with the engine still in the car ?
How do we do this ? Is there a tutorial for that ?
What difficulties can we foresee ?
Subsidiary question : Is it possible to change headgasket with the engine in the car? How much does a head weights ? Is it honnestly possible to lift that from the car with only two arms ?
Thanks for your answers.
I deal actually with some questions about the camshaft. Is it possible to change this part with the engine still in the car ?
How do we do this ? Is there a tutorial for that ?
What difficulties can we foresee ?
Subsidiary question : Is it possible to change headgasket with the engine in the car? How much does a head weights ? Is it honnestly possible to lift that from the car with only two arms ?
Thanks for your answers.
The heads can be lifted easily from the car by one person. If you do a google search you will be able to find info on the process of renewing the cam on a Rover V8. The only difference in doing the cam on a landrover and tvr is you need to remove the front chassis cross member and Y piece pretty much everything else is the same.
Chris
Chris
Very do-able, just take a bit of care not to score the cam bearings when extracting/reinstalling the shaft... if the heads are having to come off, suggest the cam is done with them pulled as there's way more access and spanner room that way. Also a doddle to make up a positive stop TDC finder for degreeing the new one in (you are going to degree it in aren't you?)
Sorry for my poor english. What is a doddle ?
What do you mean by degreeing the cam?
Using this kind of degree disc http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/degree_w... to set the Vernier wheel of the timing chain so that valves do synchronize appropriatly with the crank rotation ?
Or is it something else to do?
What do you mean by degreeing the cam?
Using this kind of degree disc http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/degree_w... to set the Vernier wheel of the timing chain so that valves do synchronize appropriatly with the crank rotation ?
Or is it something else to do?
Bar across the bore of number 1, clamped to the deck by two of the head bolts/studs, and with a single screw and locknut between protruding onto the piston crown. Adjust until the centre screw just stops the piston going full stroke and the point exactly half way (on a degree wheel on the crank) between the two 'stops' is TDC.
The same can effectively be done with the heads in situ, by adapting an old spark plug by removing the core and threading a long bolt or stud through it.
Using a dial indicator is imprecise in comparison as there is a few degrees of effective dwell at the top of the stroke and it can be difficult to see exactly where the dial starts moving due to bearing clearances etc.
The same can effectively be done with the heads in situ, by adapting an old spark plug by removing the core and threading a long bolt or stud through it.
Using a dial indicator is imprecise in comparison as there is a few degrees of effective dwell at the top of the stroke and it can be difficult to see exactly where the dial starts moving due to bearing clearances etc.
Good advice PUP. Asuming the old cam is in the correct position mark it before removal at TDC, with dots of white correction fluid the position of the cam sprocket with the crankshaft position on the chain. When I did this on a rebuild of a Rover P6 V8 3.5 litre engine there were line marks to be lined up opposite each other at TDC. These marks I hope may also be present on the Griffith engine. Check for these marks before removing the chain and cam. Also mark the distributer position. Again there should be lining up marks. Alez (My French nt gd?)
Pupp said:
Bar across the bore of number 1, clamped to the deck by two of the head bolts/studs, and with a single screw and locknut between protruding onto the piston crown. Adjust until the centre screw just stops the piston going full stroke and the point exactly half way (on a degree wheel on the crank) between the two 'stops' is TDC.
The same can effectively be done with the heads in situ, by adapting an old spark plug by removing the core and threading a long bolt or stud through it.
Using a dial indicator is imprecise in comparison as there is a few degrees of effective dwell at the top of the stroke and it can be difficult to see exactly where the dial starts moving due to bearing clearances etc.
THank you. This is of great help.The same can effectively be done with the heads in situ, by adapting an old spark plug by removing the core and threading a long bolt or stud through it.
Using a dial indicator is imprecise in comparison as there is a few degrees of effective dwell at the top of the stroke and it can be difficult to see exactly where the dial starts moving due to bearing clearances etc.
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