Archive #19209686


Following on from the Lounge discussion here; click, it's been mentioned several times a wiki may be useful. I don't have enough knowledge of the fine art myself, but here's a starter. Please edit and add to as required.


List of popular online vendors


Connaught Shaving
Executive Shaving
Safety Razors
Shaving Shack
The Traditional Shaving Company


Razors


Make Model Comment(s)
Feather
Giesen and Forsthoff Timor DE 80mm long, decent weight. Nice in gun metal.
Lord
Merkur 30C Short Handle
Merkur 33C Short Handle
Merkur 34C HD Short Handle
Merkur 42 Short Handle
Merkur 45C Short Handle
Merkur 20C Long Handle
Merkur 23C Long Handle
Merkur 38B Long Handle
Mühle
Parker



Blades


Make Model Comment(s)
Astra
Derby Extra
Feather Reputed to be the sharpest/most lethal out there.
Gillette 7 o'clock SharpEdge aka Russian yellows
Gillette 7 o'clock Super Stainless
Gillette Super Thin
Lord
Merkur
Personna Double Edge
Personna Platinum Chrome
Personna Super


Brushes


Make Model Comment(s)
Mühle
Omega
Simpsons
Vulfix


Soaps/Creams


Mitchell's Woolfat soap

Accessories/sundries


Alum Block
Styptic Pencil
Witch Hazel - post shave freshener/cleanser.

Beginners Kits


Wilkinson Sword razor
Wilkinson Brush & soap
Styptic pencil
Boots Soap in a bowl
Boots Soap refills

Method(s)/Advice


Video: Mantic59
Video: ShaveNation

freecar said:
You really do need to ditch the KoS gel, I used to use it myself and know it is the best of the crap available, yet a proper soap is leagues ahead and I'm going to explain why!

The Brush.

The brush is important, firstly it provides a source of exfoliation, it removes dead skin cells and dirt from around each hair and it also brings the environment to create "emulsion" with your soap but more on that later. The brush is generally made from Badger bristle, the finest type is often referred to as "silvertip" badger and comes from the neck of the badger in winter, this is the softest, most absorbent type of brush you can get and it makes a fine lather.

When using a brush, the first time you lather up your face in the morning (or whenever you shave) you should grip the brush by the bristles, this tightens them up and makes them more aggressive. This will ensure that the bristles have picked up all the laying down hairs and surrounded them with gooey lather. Further latherings can be done by gripping the handles and letting the brush remain more floppy.

The Soap.

Shaving soap should be alkaline (which is why you shouldn't use face soap which is acidic!) which is essential to cause the little plates that "armour" each hair to split apart and allow moisture within the hair shaft. It is this process that swells each hair and makes it easier to cut, it also allow for a tiny bit of stubble "retreat" after your shave leaving you very smooth, but not so far beneath the skin that it will cause irritation and ingrown hairs like hysteresis (the proces by which cartridge razors work, they don't shave, even the manufacturers admit it!)

They key to creating a good lather is to make an emulsion of soap and water. Just the right amount of water will make you lather tenacious and slick, I ususally put my soap, brush and razor in my mug in the sink full of the hottest water my tap can muster while I have my shower. Once out I give my brush a good shake to remove the excess and tip the water from inside the soap, 80-100 whirls of the brush 'pon my puck and I have enough soap to make a decent three pass and polish shave. I put this into the hot mug and start adding water while mixing it up, it is actually surprising how much water you can add to make it good and slick (something you can do in the early days while learning is to make up a batch and ruin it by adding too much water, this will give you experience of the stages it goes through so you can spot when it's just right) and provide enough cushion for the blade.

It is also worth mentioning that the first time you use a new brush it will smell a bit like dead wet dog! The best thing to do is to shampoo the bristles a few times to get rid of the smell!

So there you have it, a comprehensive reason why crap in a can just isn't up to the job, the brush and soap do so many tasks between them, it is not simply a case of lubrication.
snowy slopes said:
Feathers are okay, but a lot of it depends on technique, and I have found them to be about the best for me. You can get silly over which blade is best, which soap is best, and whether a futur is better than a cheap WS razor etc. The best thing for those wanting to try this, is experiment, you will eventually find the combination that suits you best.
freecar said:
To build your lather you need to work it some more, your best bet would be to use a large coffee mug as face lathering with cream takes ages in my experience. Your brush prep is fine, I would add the mug to the sink to get it good and hot, then pop an almond sized snurdle of cream on the centre of the brush (grasp the bristles so as to tighten them up to provide support for wiping the cream onto it) and start working it in the mug, once evenly worked you'll need to add some water. Dribble a small amount of water (half a dozen drops or so) into the mug and carry on whirling the brush, you'll know when the lather is done because it will get all glossy with tiny bubbles. The most important thing with a good lather is a mixture of water and soap/cream, without it you'll not moisturise the hair shaft and that will make it harder to cut causing dragging and general discomfort.

A nice set up - courtesy Soovy