Caliper change

Caliper change

Author
Discussion

angus99

Original Poster:

614 posts

178 months

Tuesday 27th December 2011
quotequote all
Hoping to fit my brake upgrade tomorrow, 888/887 calipers etc. as well as removing the shocks for servicing.

Just wondered what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

scotty_d

6,795 posts

163 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
Are you not as well to just drain it all out and replace with new stuff? And then get the full effect of your new brakes.

If the fluid is new and you don't want to do it, just do it quickly have the new caliper to hand as you change over and just top up lost fluid again.

phillpot

16,392 posts

152 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
angus99 said:
what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?
No, don't clamp them. If you have one piece flexi's (from chassis to caliper) you'll need to take them off anyway to unscrew them from caliper. You can hold the pipe and unscrew the caliper but its aukward and if it tightens in a different place you'll have a twist in the flexi.

I use a spare brake nut with a short piece of pipe squashed flat to seal it, or a bleed nipple can be used for a male blank.

Good idea to change fluid but I find it easier if you retain old fluid and let new stuff "follow through" rather than get a lot of air in the system.

Works the same with female nuts....



Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 28th December 08:09

fenderbender

339 posts

193 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
angus99 said:
what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?
You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).


phillpot

16,392 posts

152 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
fenderbender said:
angus99 said:
what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?
You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).
I really really wouldn't clamp braided hoses (even with proper brake hose clamps)

haircutmike

19,982 posts

173 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
phillpot said:
fenderbender said:
angus99 said:
what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?
You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).
I really really wouldn't clamp braided hoses (even with proper brake hose clamps)
Works with rubber but you will damage the braided hose.

Do it quickly and bleed as normal!

Simon says

18,083 posts

190 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
phillpot said:
fenderbender said:
angus99 said:
what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?
You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).
I really really wouldn't clamp braided hoses (even with proper brake hose clamps)
yes correct wink the inner liner may deform and never fully recover.

angus99

Original Poster:

614 posts

178 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
late start this morning, after too much red wine last night, but have the old brakes off and the new discs / calipers trial fitted. Haven't disconnected the brake hoses from the old calipers yet though. Just off to get dome extra brake fluid and a bleeding kit.

bit of a bonus is that I didn't need to drill out the holes for the carrier bolts as they were alrerady the correct size. presume then that its just the earlier cars that have the smaller bolts?

CHIMV8

2,761 posts

190 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
angus99 said:
late start this morning, after too much red wine last night, but have the old brakes off and the new discs / calipers trial fitted. Haven't disconnected the brake hoses from the old calipers yet though. Just off to get dome extra brake fluid and a bleeding kit.

bit of a bonus is that I didn't need to drill out the holes for the carrier bolts as they were alrerady the correct size. presume then that its just the earlier cars that have the smaller bolts?
Nick,what size discs are you putting on dia/width and are you using any spacers to centralise the new caliper?

angus99

Original Poster:

614 posts

178 months

Wednesday 28th December 2011
quotequote all
Bought a complete kit from hansdal, advertised in the classifieds. Went this route as all the reconditioned calipers on Ebay didn't come with the carriers and I couldn't source the carriers separately. Also wasn't keen on grinding away some of the carrier to accommodate the 283mm discs, which I beleive still need a spacer

Kit included:
888/887 calipers
carriers
278mm discs
pads
spacers and bolts

CHIMV8

2,761 posts

190 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
angus99 said:
Bought a complete kit from hansdal, advertised in the classifieds. Went this route as all the reconditioned calipers on Ebay didn't come with the carriers and I couldn't source the carriers separately. Also wasn't keen on grinding away some of the carrier to accommodate the 283mm discs, which I beleive still need a spacer

Kit included:
888/887 calipers
carriers
278mm discs
pads
spacers and bolts
Hows it gone?

Thinking of fitting these to mine?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sierra-RS-500-87-88-Dril...

carsy

3,018 posts

134 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
I have just managed to get some 887/888 calipers off ebay. Was just wondering what type of pads people were fitting to this conversion.

Those discs look nice. Is there any real advantage to having drilled or grooves for road use.

Edited by carsy on Sunday 5th February 16:39

CHIMV8

2,761 posts

190 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
carsy said:
I have just managed to get some 887/888 calipers off ebay. Was just wondering what type of pads people were fitting to this conversion.

Those discs look nice. Is there any real advantage to having drilled or grooves for road use.

Edited by carsy on Sunday 5th February 16:39
Dont think so,but what the hell they look good!!

Simon says

18,083 posts

190 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
Go grooved rather than drilled wink saves sifting through the brands that are prone to cracking through the drilled holes eek

carsy

3,018 posts

134 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
OK and what pads do you recommend for road use.

Simon says

18,083 posts

190 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
Never managed to overwhelm stock Motorcraft/Ford pads to date (on the road) with the Granny Cos set up. wink others will probably recommend EBC & Mintex etc smile

Edited by Simon says on Sunday 5th February 21:41

haircutmike

19,982 posts

173 months

Sunday 5th February 2012
quotequote all
I ran a couple of sets of 330mm grooved, drilled and vented discs then changed to just vented Brembo discs.
TBH, even on T/D's I couldn't tell the difference!

black and green

650 posts

160 months

Monday 6th February 2012
quotequote all
I'm running standard TRW pads in mine with 887/888 calipers and normal ungrooved/undrilled discs and they feel powerful and progressive. Not convinced the grooved/drilled will be much more than cosmetic on a light weight car running relatively skinny road tyres.

Naybr

209 posts

135 months

Monday 6th February 2012
quotequote all
Back to the original point.

I haven't tried this personally for a while, but it used to be the case that if you put some thin plastic sheet under the cap of the master cylinder it stops the spillage at the other end because the air can't get in. You will still need to top up afterwards, but it's much easier to bleed a nearly full system than an empty one.


Simon says

18,083 posts

190 months

Monday 6th February 2012
quotequote all
Naybr said:
Back to the original point.

I haven't tried this personally for a while, but it used to be the case that if you put some thin plastic sheet under the cap of the master cylinder it stops the spillage at the other end because the air can't get in. You will still need to top up afterwards, but it's much easier to bleed a nearly full system than an empty one.
Yep, stll works, good advice concerning the bleeding no point in running the sysrem dry, the only way to get all the old fluid and silt from the system is to remove the resevoir anyways.