Starter Motor removal
Discussion
Yep, definitely disconnect the battery! Change the 100 amp fuse for a midi fuse while you're down there too.
Easy enough to replace the starter, just make sure you use the correct Allen key bit and make sure it's properly seated in the bolt head. It's done up bloody tight! I think my bolts used a 5/16 Allen socket. I hammered the socket into the bolt head to make sure it was seated properly. Then used a long extension bar and a decent long ratchet. You'll need a fair bit of force to free the bolts off. Once loosened, one of my bolts came out easily, the other was tight all the way out. I had to do 2 turns out, one turn back in, and constantly spray it with WD40 to get it out. Don't force it as it could snap.
Once the bolts are out, the starter might need a bit of persuading to actually come off. Mine was very well stuck. Ended up tapping the starter with a hammer to free it off.
Fitting the new one takes a couple of minutes.
Easy enough to replace the starter, just make sure you use the correct Allen key bit and make sure it's properly seated in the bolt head. It's done up bloody tight! I think my bolts used a 5/16 Allen socket. I hammered the socket into the bolt head to make sure it was seated properly. Then used a long extension bar and a decent long ratchet. You'll need a fair bit of force to free the bolts off. Once loosened, one of my bolts came out easily, the other was tight all the way out. I had to do 2 turns out, one turn back in, and constantly spray it with WD40 to get it out. Don't force it as it could snap.
Once the bolts are out, the starter might need a bit of persuading to actually come off. Mine was very well stuck. Ended up tapping the starter with a hammer to free it off.
Fitting the new one takes a couple of minutes.
If you're considering a replacement starter here are my experiences:
I've tried a few starter brands including the very expensive & utterly rubbish Powerlite RAC 318.
All these fancy gear reduction starter motors are just modified Denso starters, Powerlite/Wasp ect fit an end plate to suit different bolt patterns & make lots of profit in the process, so as you can imagine there are lots of companies out there now peddling the same idea.
The thing is they dont always get the end plate right, my Powerlite RAC 318 never sounded correct to me, like the throw & ring gear engagement was wrong.
I've also used the Prestolite starter sold for the Range Rover Classic by lots of Land Rover parts specialists, I found this starter to crank stronger than the Powerlite and engage smoothly.
Available for about £90 the small body form of this starter makes it an easy fit so in many respects the Prestolite seemed spot on, well it was spot on for 6 months until it gave up on me
Thoroughly peed off with changing out starters I bought the cheapest one I could find, the picture on EBay seemed to show the bright zinc body Prestolite starter I liked, so thinking I may have got a dud the first time round I thought I'd give the make one last try.
What turned up came in a red & white box branded Global Power
, it had a black body & most certainly wasn't the Prestolite one I was expecting.
Any how I couldn't be bothered to return it so I threw it on, to my surprise it was the best of the lot, it spins the engine like a jet winding up, it engages super smoothly and has proved to be 100% reliable so far.
Ok so its only been on a year or so far, but it still cranks as good as the day I fitted it, I remain very impressed with this cheap starter.
You can buy it here, ignore the photo they're still showing the bright zinc bodied Prestolite.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-3-5-...
I'd ring them (01953 601917) to double check you're getting the Global Power one, the one I got from them certainly worked for me
Or call Global Power direct (0151 4270093) & see what kind of a deal they'll do for you, I believe they sell direct to the public in single units.
http://www.globalpowerltd.co.uk/page2.htm
I've tried a few starter brands including the very expensive & utterly rubbish Powerlite RAC 318.
All these fancy gear reduction starter motors are just modified Denso starters, Powerlite/Wasp ect fit an end plate to suit different bolt patterns & make lots of profit in the process, so as you can imagine there are lots of companies out there now peddling the same idea.
The thing is they dont always get the end plate right, my Powerlite RAC 318 never sounded correct to me, like the throw & ring gear engagement was wrong.
I've also used the Prestolite starter sold for the Range Rover Classic by lots of Land Rover parts specialists, I found this starter to crank stronger than the Powerlite and engage smoothly.
Available for about £90 the small body form of this starter makes it an easy fit so in many respects the Prestolite seemed spot on, well it was spot on for 6 months until it gave up on me
Thoroughly peed off with changing out starters I bought the cheapest one I could find, the picture on EBay seemed to show the bright zinc body Prestolite starter I liked, so thinking I may have got a dud the first time round I thought I'd give the make one last try.
What turned up came in a red & white box branded Global Power
, it had a black body & most certainly wasn't the Prestolite one I was expecting.Any how I couldn't be bothered to return it so I threw it on, to my surprise it was the best of the lot, it spins the engine like a jet winding up, it engages super smoothly and has proved to be 100% reliable so far.
Ok so its only been on a year or so far, but it still cranks as good as the day I fitted it, I remain very impressed with this cheap starter.
You can buy it here, ignore the photo they're still showing the bright zinc bodied Prestolite.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-3-5-...
I'd ring them (01953 601917) to double check you're getting the Global Power one, the one I got from them certainly worked for me
Or call Global Power direct (0151 4270093) & see what kind of a deal they'll do for you, I believe they sell direct to the public in single units.
http://www.globalpowerltd.co.uk/page2.htm
Just to add to the above, I bought this one: http://www.paddockspares.com/nad101490-starter-mot... after another Chim owner fitted one and recommended it to me.
I've only had it on for a couple of weeks, but it sounds great, very quick to turn over, and no issues with it not engaging properly. Time well tell how long it lasts, but it certainly looks well built. It's a Britpart starter.
I've only had it on for a couple of weeks, but it sounds great, very quick to turn over, and no issues with it not engaging properly. Time well tell how long it lasts, but it certainly looks well built. It's a Britpart starter.
Pupp said:
Not too bad with the OEM Bosch type units, a fiddly PItA with Denso based gear reduction jobs (Powerlite, WOSP etc) - the electrical connections are more likely to cause difficulty than the mounting bolts. Do disconnect the battery 
Interestingly enough I have just rebuilt my Bosch starter Gary and to my surprise (should have taken a pic) it as a centrally mounted hub style reduction gear 
news to me I presumed it was a good old fashioned Bosch/Lucas style direct drive starter 
I was quite impressed 
Like zed4, both the bolts on mine were very tight. I ended up putting a large ring spanner over the ratchet to get some more leverage. Both bolts came loose with a crack and were pretty much finger tight after that.
Re the Global Power starters, I spoke to the company linked to above this morning and they are no longer supplying Global Power units as they "found the quality to be deteriorating". They now supply Britpart units.
I'm still trying to decide which new starter to buy.
Re the Global Power starters, I spoke to the company linked to above this morning and they are no longer supplying Global Power units as they "found the quality to be deteriorating". They now supply Britpart units.
I'm still trying to decide which new starter to buy.
I have fitted 2 of these to customers Chims with no issues oldest is about 4 years old, they are new units rather than recon (and was a fair bit cheaper too) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTX-Starter-Motor-LAND-R... these are ideal replacement bolts for the starter too if yours have seen better days they are perfect I still have 4 spares http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Edited by Sardonicus on Tuesday 21st January 11:21
Sardonicus said:
I have fitted 2 of these to customers Chims with no issues oldest is about 4 years old, they are new units rather than recon (and was a fair bit cheaper too) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTX-Starter-Motor-LAND-R... these are ideal replacement bolts for the starter too if yours have seen better days they are perfect I still have 4 spares http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Forget that cap head stuff & put at least 1 stud in the bellhousing, then you don't have to hold that heavy starter in position whilst you try & get the bolts to locate......Edited by Sardonicus on Tuesday 21st January 11:21
I use both studs & flanged nuts (so they sit happily in a socket) ~ top one is a bit tight but just the same with bolts ~ no more struggling
These are things to work out whilst you have a block on a stand & can figure out better ways of fixing things...spend said:
Forget that cap head stuff & put at least 1 stud in the bellhousing, then you don't have to hold that heavy starter in position whilst you try & get the bolts to locate......
I use both studs & flanged nuts (so they sit happily in a socket) ~ top one is a bit tight but just the same with bolts ~ no more struggling These are things to work out whilst you have a block on a stand & can figure out better ways of fixing things...
Good point Dave I use both studs & flanged nuts (so they sit happily in a socket) ~ top one is a bit tight but just the same with bolts ~ no more struggling
These are things to work out whilst you have a block on a stand & can figure out better ways of fixing things...
as we speak I am trying to move the generic crankshaft sensor bracket up and around on the front cover to avoid being so close to the exhaust downpipe Sardonicus said:
ell if it was a Lucas or other brand jobby the chances are it wouldnt be the same 
then others would wonder .... what the f
k is he on about 
in my trade it pays to be specific or your just pissing in the wind 
So if you had a Lucas starter you wouldn't call it Gary? then others would wonder .... what the fk is he on about in my trade it pays to be specific or your just pissing in the wind Good tip for the stud to ease location of the starter, may do that next time.
Sardonicus said:
ood point Dave as we speak I am trying to move the generic crankshaft sensor bracket up and around on the front cover to avoid being so close to the exhaust downpipe
I think all the JE / triggerwheels.. implementations stick them down the side.. AFIK I'm the only that has made bracketry so its up & out of the way (heat / s as we speak I am trying to move the generic crankshaft sensor bracket up and around on the front cover to avoid being so close to the exhaust downpipe t / road splatter..) on the TDC Line...
Get a room you two; it was much more entertaining when you made like two tomcats with your tails tied together... !!
Think it's horses for courses on starters. I have a WOSP and like it as it does move the motor further away from heat. However it was no lightetr than the short bodied Bosch that came off, which I was surprised about
Think it's horses for courses on starters. I have a WOSP and like it as it does move the motor further away from heat. However it was no lightetr than the short bodied Bosch that came off, which I was surprised about
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