Which circular saw blade?

[crankedup]

I need to cut down our new interior doors to frame fit but am unsure which blade to purchase for the job. The old blade has very large and spaced teeth and rather rips the wood causing some chipping on the cut edge, I want to avoid this with the new blade.
The doors are oak veneer over an engineered wood core. Advise appreciated.

[singlecoil]

Chipping on the edge is a common problem, across the grain it's virtually unavoidable unless you invest in a Festool saw and rail set-up.

If it's a one off try using a blade with plenty of teeth and score the cut line first with a sharp Stanley knife.

[Simpo Two]

You can get circular saw blades with finer teeth, and/or plane smooth afterwards.

[paulrockliffe]

If you can clamp a piece of wood or MDF either side of the door that will mostly sort it out. Finer toothed blades are more likely to burn the wood, but I guess that depends ont he power fo the machine too.

I used an electric plane to do mine, several passes at 2mm each.

[Simpo Two]

NB I use one of these on my little Evolution table saw: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Blade-BlackTip-2...

As said, save it for when you need a fine finish, don't wear it out on rough stuff. Only blunt blades burn.

[paulrockliffe]

You're right, thinking about it where I've had the finer toothed blade burn was because I was cutting with the grain and the wood wanted to close the gap and crush the blade, it was the bulk of the disk that caused the burn, ie the blunt bit.

[crankedup]

Thanks for tips, I will have a look at the electric planers as we have another 7 doors to cut.

[mgtony]

Find a fine cross-cut blade for your particular circular saw,check out Screwfix for one. Cut the door from the least seen side leaving the cleaner cut visible to living areas etc.
As mentioned already, try and score through the veneer with a sharp knife on the cut line to minimise break-out. I run a piece of masking tape along as well to try and prevent it.

[crankedup]

[quote=mgtony]Find a fine cross-cut blade for your particular circular saw,check out Screwfix for one. Cut the door from the least seen side leaving the cleaner cut visible to living areas etc.
As mentioned already, try and score through the veneer with a sharp knife on the cut line to minimise break-out. I run a piece of masking tape along as well to try and prevent it.[/quote

Good advise always appreciated, thanks.

[m4ckg]

Simpo Two said:

You can get circular saw blades with finer teeth, and/or plane smooth afterwards.

Be better with a Mafell 😉

[mgtony]

m4ckg said:

Be better with a Mafell ??

Just had a Google, ££££££!

Shouldn't be a problem with any half decent circular saw. Keep the blade set to just passed to the thickness of the door rather than it's full depth.
Make sure to use a straight edge and keep the larger side of the sole plate next to the blade on the workpiece for stability. Raising the blade slightly will give more clearance for the straight edge under the motor of the housing.

[m4ckg]

mgtony said:

Just had a Google, ££££££!

Shouldn't be a problem with any half decent circular saw. Keep the blade set to just passed to the thickness of the door rather than it's full depth.
Make sure to use a straight edge and keep the larger side of the sole plate next to the blade on the workpiece for stability. Raising the blade slightly will give more clearance for the straight edge under the motor of the housing.

Haha yeah, not the cheapest but you get what you pay for 😉

Op....you could always score the door face up and score the door with a Stanley knife and the cut a mm or so below to prevent break out. By far the easiest and cheapest option. The only problem with very fine tooth blades do this job is the fact you're cutting with the grain and fine tooth blades struggle a little with this

[m4ckg]

Just read someone has already given you the same advice 😁

[mosstrooper]

Nobody has asked. Are you trimming the width or height ?

[wolfracesonic]

^ Very important, fine teeth required for cutting across the grain, coarser teeth for cutting with it. If you're reducing reducing the width, you'll need to finish with a plane (Ideally a hand one) whatever blade you use. Did I mention I've got a Festool rail saw?