Changing from run flats to normal tyres...
Discussion
Hi folks - have pulled the trigger on a 59 plate 116 m sport - not going to set the world on fire performance wise I know, but, was pleased with the test drive lol - my issue is with the run flat tyres - having read up on them, it appears you can't repair a run flat so it's going to be expensive having to get a new tyre or tyres every time I get a puncture - can I replace with normal tyres? The dealer is putting 2 new front tyres on before sale, but, I am thinking of saying please put normal tyres on - and does it matter if there 2 normal on the front and rfts on the back?. Many thanks for any help...
Edited by Cupra R on Sunday 5th July 17:31
Yes, you can run non runflats but you seem to have had some poor advice.
Runflats can be repaired, unless they have been run flat for quite some time, which is almost always unnecessary.
Runflats don't cost that much more than a premium non runflat.
You need to factor in whatever you're going to do about having a puncture when running non runflats. Tyre sealants not only work only when they're not needed, i.e. the sealing properties of a tubeless tyre aren't far behind one with sealant in it, and the use of a sealant will almost certainly prohibit permanent repair.
So, do you buy and carry a spare, or carry a temporary repair kit and hope you can safely apply it if you get a loss of pressure?
It often strikes me that if you don't understand enough about this issue to make your own decision, you might be better off sticking with the runflats.
Runflats can be repaired, unless they have been run flat for quite some time, which is almost always unnecessary.
Runflats don't cost that much more than a premium non runflat.
You need to factor in whatever you're going to do about having a puncture when running non runflats. Tyre sealants not only work only when they're not needed, i.e. the sealing properties of a tubeless tyre aren't far behind one with sealant in it, and the use of a sealant will almost certainly prohibit permanent repair.
So, do you buy and carry a spare, or carry a temporary repair kit and hope you can safely apply it if you get a loss of pressure?
It often strikes me that if you don't understand enough about this issue to make your own decision, you might be better off sticking with the runflats.
As long as the speed and load rating are consistent with manufacturers spec there is no issue.
You do need a full set otherwise your handling could be wayward and your insurance could be invalid. I suggest you get a discount from the dealer for not changing the tyres and do it yourself. A set of quality branded non run flat tyres will be about the same price as two tyres from the dealer.
Ride and handling difference is huge. You also need a can of tyre weld and a portable compressor.
You do need a full set otherwise your handling could be wayward and your insurance could be invalid. I suggest you get a discount from the dealer for not changing the tyres and do it yourself. A set of quality branded non run flat tyres will be about the same price as two tyres from the dealer.
Ride and handling difference is huge. You also need a can of tyre weld and a portable compressor.
Ok thankyou - the car is getting a new mot on it aswell and it won't pass without the 2 front tyres being replaced - which brand of non run flats would you recommend?, they are 18s... The car has almost brand new Continentals on the back so not sure if it would be best to fit run flats to the front for now and see what happens and then I can get the use of the new rears...
During the test drive I did notice the suspension was stiff but not too bad, but, would this get on my nerves over time - is the 2 litre engine generally issue free? I know there was a timing chain recall on the diesel versions?. Power wise the car is less than what I'm coming from ( Mazda 3 Sport) but so much more refined and put together, not sure if I'll eventually find it lacking in power - and last thing sorry, would the car benefit from the OBD port upgrade? Thankyou...
I recently switched from RFT to no RFT and saved money in the process.
My rears were down to about 2mm so instead of buying a pair of rears @£160/180ish I decided that 4 new non runflats and selling the front RFTs on would be a better deal for me (save money and get extra comfort and more importantly grip)
My set of new tyres (Goodyear Eagle F1s) came out at £440 fitted. I then sold the front RFTs on for £150 (okay I've only really saved £20-40) but the improvement in grip and ride comfort is phenomenal.
My rears were down to about 2mm so instead of buying a pair of rears @£160/180ish I decided that 4 new non runflats and selling the front RFTs on would be a better deal for me (save money and get extra comfort and more importantly grip)
My set of new tyres (Goodyear Eagle F1s) came out at £440 fitted. I then sold the front RFTs on for £150 (okay I've only really saved £20-40) but the improvement in grip and ride comfort is phenomenal.
Dannbodge said:
the improvement in grip and ride comfort is phenomenal.
Agree and its the best move I have made, I had read a lot of positives from owners that had swapped to normal tyres and they were spot on, whichever numpty came up with the idea of runflats needs a good talking to because they just ruin a car to drive for sure. Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff