BMW Z4 3.0 - issues?
Discussion
One of the cars on my short list is the 3.0 Z4 coupe...
...until I started reading about BMWs Vanos issues on all their engines. It seems the seals are made from an unsuitable material which degrades every 20k miles. So, what are your experiences with Vanos on the Z4? How expensive is the regular replacement?
Any other issues?
...until I started reading about BMWs Vanos issues on all their engines. It seems the seals are made from an unsuitable material which degrades every 20k miles. So, what are your experiences with Vanos on the Z4? How expensive is the regular replacement?
Any other issues?
What age are you looking at? If you are referring to the M54 some people say all VANOs units have issue with seal wear, some say they are no problems. Depends who you believe. I have the older version of the engine, the M52tu (same vanos unit) and did have some vanos seal wear. I changed the seals and sorted the problem.
It's cheap to change the seals and is a one off job. A more serious common problem on the Z4 is failing roof motors due to blocked drain pipes.
It's cheap to change the seals and is a one off job. A more serious common problem on the Z4 is failing roof motors due to blocked drain pipes.
The Coupe Z4 has the N52B30 engine which is Valvetronic rather than VANOS. The issue you describe is the characteristic BMW ticking on cold idle. Some will have it, others won't. It's nothing to worry about if it goes as the oil warms up.
From my understanding, it's an issue with the design of the head which means when cold, the oil seeps out from the lifters, which make a rather loud noise upon starting, but the oil will soon get back to where it's meant to be and quieten down. BMW say that this is fine (others have disagreed and with much fighting have succeeded in getting warranty claims for new heads, but I wouldn't count on it). Where the issue really exists is when the noise doesn't go away - then you've got an issue.
No idea where the every 20k thing comes from. In the worse form as described, it's a rare issue as it is, and the new head claims to fix the issue entirely.
When looking, just ensure the car you test is cold so you can hear it upon startup, and listen out for the ticking. As I say, it should go away within a few minutes of driving as the oil warms - it did with mine. If it doesn't, then walk away.
From my understanding, it's an issue with the design of the head which means when cold, the oil seeps out from the lifters, which make a rather loud noise upon starting, but the oil will soon get back to where it's meant to be and quieten down. BMW say that this is fine (others have disagreed and with much fighting have succeeded in getting warranty claims for new heads, but I wouldn't count on it). Where the issue really exists is when the noise doesn't go away - then you've got an issue.
No idea where the every 20k thing comes from. In the worse form as described, it's a rare issue as it is, and the new head claims to fix the issue entirely.
When looking, just ensure the car you test is cold so you can hear it upon startup, and listen out for the ticking. As I say, it should go away within a few minutes of driving as the oil warms - it did with mine. If it doesn't, then walk away.
One of the reasons I got one was because of its lack of ruinous foibles. I can't imagine it will cost much more than a regular car to service.
As far as I know, coil packs can be an issue (causing a misfire) - £20 each and easy to diagnose.
VANOS Solenoids may stick - I simply cleaned mine and the problem has not returned - about £80 each (there are two) and again it shouldn't be difficult to find out which one is faulty using a OBD code reader.
Main thing to budget for if its over £80K miles is a replacement water pump. Electric one in these, and you're looking at upwards of £350 for a replacement. The engine is magnesium so it won't take well to overheating so I'd get it done when you can (I plan on getting mine done before the years out).
Otherwise it's pretty much normal wear and tear.
ETA - as above, the N52 can be slightly "tappety" when started cold, but as long as it quietens down within a couple of minutes its fine.
As far as I know, coil packs can be an issue (causing a misfire) - £20 each and easy to diagnose.
VANOS Solenoids may stick - I simply cleaned mine and the problem has not returned - about £80 each (there are two) and again it shouldn't be difficult to find out which one is faulty using a OBD code reader.
Main thing to budget for if its over £80K miles is a replacement water pump. Electric one in these, and you're looking at upwards of £350 for a replacement. The engine is magnesium so it won't take well to overheating so I'd get it done when you can (I plan on getting mine done before the years out).
Otherwise it's pretty much normal wear and tear.
ETA - as above, the N52 can be slightly "tappety" when started cold, but as long as it quietens down within a couple of minutes its fine.
Edited by TameRacingDriver on Saturday 2nd April 11:48
The sticky steering problem.
My mate just bought one and had this issue
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=141...
My mate just bought one and had this issue
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=141...
In reality there is very little to worry about, no more than any other car of this age and nothing of huge expense. It's going to be an 8-13 year old car... There will be stuff to fix. The spirngs can swap for example, the hood can have some issues - but overall they're very very solid.
Owned an M54 engined E46 for just over a year, a 325Ci, bought on 98k and put on 8-10k during ownership. I replaced the thermostat, radiator and CCV hoses and pump - all of which are common problems. It once developed a misfire due to an ignition coil but they pulled through with a good clean, ideally all 6 need changing at this age/mileage though. I also suspect there may have been a small amount of VANOS rattle (very much untrained ears) and I had intentions of changing the seals on this but never got round to it!
All cars have their common problems, although the list is rather long with these engines they're all relatively simple fixes - I did the repairs myself and this was my first car so it was all new to me as well. Good engine when it was running properly though, maybe felt a bit lazy at times, but very smooth and torquey. Also made an incredible noise with an induction kit
And just realised you want a coupe so they have the later N52 as stated above - far more modern engine than the M50 based M54, you'll be fine
All cars have their common problems, although the list is rather long with these engines they're all relatively simple fixes - I did the repairs myself and this was my first car so it was all new to me as well. Good engine when it was running properly though, maybe felt a bit lazy at times, but very smooth and torquey. Also made an incredible noise with an induction kit
And just realised you want a coupe so they have the later N52 as stated above - far more modern engine than the M50 based M54, you'll be fine
Edited by AM7 on Sunday 3rd April 11:27
I've had a Z4 Coupe since June 2014. Great car, goes like a stabbed rat, sounds fantastic 
No major problems until last December when the electric water pump died (at 61K miles).
ECP quote £339 for just the part, but I had an OEM one fitted by my ex-Sytner indy - together with a thermostat, labour, etc. it cost £800!
So just a quick heads up for you on that. Maybe look for one that has had it done already?
But every time I drive it I get nearer to forgiving it!
No major problems until last December when the electric water pump died (at 61K miles).
ECP quote £339 for just the part, but I had an OEM one fitted by my ex-Sytner indy - together with a thermostat, labour, etc. it cost £800!
So just a quick heads up for you on that. Maybe look for one that has had it done already?But every time I drive it I get nearer to forgiving it!
Mr Tidy said:
...
ECP quote £339 for just the part, but I had an OEM one fitted by my ex-Sytner indy - together with a thermostat, labour, etc. it cost £800! So just a quick heads up for you on that. Maybe look for one that has had it done already?
O/T I had my stat and housing done by my local main dealer and it was £270. So adding on your pump price plus some labour it wouldn't have been much more than that. So maybe your local one is dearer?ECP quote £339 for just the part, but I had an OEM one fitted by my ex-Sytner indy - together with a thermostat, labour, etc. it cost £800!
So just a quick heads up for you on that. Maybe look for one that has had it done already?They guarantee the work for 2 years too, which is worth remembering.
k-ink said:
Ok so just dodgy steering, engine, suspension, water pump, coil packs, vanos, plus roof motors on the cab. Ok then.
Wow. Every BMW I have looked into has a list of know weak points. No inspiring much confidence!
With the exception of model specific parts, I'm pretty sure that shortlist applies to all cars, especially "premium" European roadsters. The Z4 is objectively not an unreliable car however.Wow. Every BMW I have looked into has a list of know weak points. No inspiring much confidence!
If the ownership proposition still intimidates, perhaps go for one with a BMW warranty?
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