Audi TT Mk1: PH Used Buying Guide
Thinking of buying the OG TT? Here's what to look out for...
The original Audi TT's route to success reads like a Hollywood script pitch. Conceived in California as a concept for the 1995 Frankfurt Motor Show, it arrived in showrooms three years later with very few changes to its styling.
The public lapped it up from launch in 1999 in the UK, even if contemporary road tests were much cooler in their praise of the Audi's inert handling and steering responses. Then, just as buyers were queuing up, news came of several high-speed crashes in the TT. Most of these were on German Autobahns, where the TT Coupe's instability during certain lane change conditions could pitch it into a spin.
Audi's reaction was swift and added a stubby boot spoiler to interrupt the otherwise clean profile. This modification was offered free of charge to all TT owners and most took it up. There are still a handful of unmodified cars around, which are arguably worth collecting for their purity of line but not worth paying any more for.
With this issue addressed, the Type 8N TT was an unstoppable sales star. It was first offered with 180- and 225hp versions of the 1.8-litre turbocharged engine as used in a variety of Volkswagen Group models. The lower power model came with a five-speed manual and the 225hp had a six-speeder, though the 180 gained the extra ratio as standard from late 2000.
In 1999, the range was expanded with the Roadster and Audi offered a cheaper entry to TT ownership with the 150hp Roadster from mid-2003. At the same time, the 3.2-litre V6 model with DSG transmission as standard topped out the line-up. Yet, despite its 250hp, the TT 3.2 V6 was more of a grand tourer than out and out sports car.
That role was left to the TT Sport of 2005. It gained a 240hp version of the 1.8 T engine, kept all-wheel drive and ditched the rear seats and spare wheel to save weight. It improved the 0-62mph time to 5.9 seconds and top speed to 155mph. Other clues are the 15-spoke alloy wheels, black-painted roof and sports seats.
The final changes for the Mk1 TT came in the middle of 2005 when the 150- and 180hp engines were uprated to 163- and 190hp respectively, before time was called in 2006.
Now, you can find a first generation TT for £1,000, though it will be a scruffy example. Up the budget to £2,500 and there are plenty of tidy 180hp front-wheel drive coupes. The best 225 Coupes are double that, which is about the same as a well cared for 3.2 V6. Roadster don't command any premium, but the Sport will cost from £7,000 for pristine examples.
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Buyer's checklist
Bodywork and interior
The most obvious problem in the TT's cabin is the digital instrument cluster's pixel beginning to fail. This is more of an aesthetic irritation but it's a sign the dash binnacle is failing and that can lead to inaccurate fuel and temperature readings. Reconditioning of the dash is available for around £300 and removal and refitting is a DIY prospect.
Check the electric windows work properly and rise up to seal properly when the door is shut.
The roof channels can harbour rust, so inspect them closely. You also need to look for corrosion in the inner wings and sills.
Roadster hood drain channels can become blocked and allow water into the cabin. Check for damp carpets.
Engine and transmission
Cambelt and tensioners must be replaced at 80,000-mile or five-year intervals. Check for evidence of this and a new water pump with uprated metal impeller when the belt was last changed.
3.2 V6 uses a cam chain, but this can become rattly at surprisingly low mileages. Replacement is a £1,000 job at an independent specialist.
Ask what oil the seller uses for the engine: it should be Castrol fully synthetic 5W-30 and changed every 10,000 miles.
The 1.8 T engine is strong, but it can leak oil, so check all around the engine bay and underneath.
A misfire could be a failed coil pack or MAF sensor.
Manual gearboxes are hard-wearing and clutches last well - expect 60,000 miles in a car that's not been thrashed.
DSG gearbox is more troublesome as the Mechatronic unit fails and makes the transmission reluctant to engage gears. Reconditioned Mechatronic units are available from specialists from around £1,500.
The DSG gearbox needs an oil and filter change every 40,000 miles and the Haldex four-wheel drive system in all Quattro TTs should have its oil changed at 20,000-mile stints.
Heat exchangers for the DSG gearbox can also wear out, so ask if the pipework has been replaced recently.
Suspension and steering
Suspension bushes have a hard time as the TT weighs more than its looks suggest. Listen for any clonks or rattles. The front wishbone bushes and anti-roll bar collars are usually the first to wear at around 60,000 miles. Replacement metal collars are a worthwhile upgrade for the anti-roll bar.
Broken springs are another common TT failing.
Wheels, tyres and brakes
Uprated brake pads are a common fit by owners unimpressed with the standard items. It's worthwhile sticking to these.
Chipped and kerbed alloys are common and cost about £65 per wheel to refurbish so long as they are not cracked or bent.
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SPECIFICATION: AUDI TT MK.1
Engine: 1,781cc 4-cyl inline/3183cc V6
Transmission: 5/6-speed man/6-spd DSG
Power (hp): 150/163/180/190//225/240/250@5,800/5,700/5,500/5,700/5,900/5,700/6,300rpm
Torque (lb ft): 155/166/173/184/207/236/236@2,200/1,950/1,950/1,950/2,200/2,300/2,500rpm
MPG: 34.4/30.7/34.2/29.7/30.1/30.0/28.8
CO2: 197/221/194/228/226/226/235g/km
Price new: £20.925-31,405
Price now: £1,000 upwards
My front wishbone bushes perished on my Quatto Sport at less than 40K miles, although there's a decent upgrade here to help dial out some of the understeer and improve steering feel, so you'd want to replace them anyway. Other than that my only other failure was a lambda sensor on my first 225, which was around £150.
I probably put around 10K miles on each of them (2x 225s and the later 240 Quattro Sport) and all in all, very reliable cars.
But, I'm sure its time will come again and while maybe not the greatest driver's car out there, as a piece of pure industrial design, it is absolutely A-list.
Values will certainly rise when it becomes rarer and then more appreciated.
And that time will come fairly soon, as they are already much less common on the roads than they once were.
I got a 2001, 225, roadster in fantastic condition, with 99k miles and with a few tasteful upgrades the best of which were some stunning 17 inch wheels and a Miltek exhaust. I paid just over 2k for the car it had reasonable service history as well!!!
So there are bargains to be had out there just keep looking!!!!
My dad has driven the car every day for the last year with no problems greater than the warning light from the roof saying it was open kept coming on... A very simple fix that cost next to nothing!
He loves the car and I have to admit I do too now!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krtko42J8LU
But, I'm sure its time will come again and while maybe not the greatest driver's car out there, as a piece of pure industrial design, it is absolutely A-list.
Values will certainly rise when it becomes rarer and then more appreciated.
And that time will come fairly soon, as they are already much less common on the roads than they once were.
I think the Bauhaus design still looks great now, my thoughts are as follow: -
Ride is harsh, and the car is lower than you think
Space is useless in the back, my kids got taller so that is part of the reason why I sold it on
Build quality stands up well interior wise
If you buy an example around the 120k mark (as I did) be prepared to replace the turbo. They generally need refurbing or replacing around this mark
Getting the Haldex oil changed is a specialist job and your average garage wont have the tools to do, something to bear in mind
Get it remapped, s stage one from the 225 unit gets to around 275-280 and the difference is pretty remarkable. With it mapped it feels like the sportscar that Audi originally intended.
Handling is good, pretty safe but good fun
Get used to the hairdresser comments
The 1.8 unit is a great engine, when I sold mine it was over 150k and it is still goin strong now. Not as fragile as the late MK2 engine
Mine had rust on the sill, more common than you would think. Roof rails always corrode as well
The dash on mine went, and cost £150 fully refurbed from BBA Reman
Spares aren't the cheapest, hence why I think we are at the stage where there are a lot of rubbish ones on the market that haven't been well looked after and run on a budget. I think definitely will be a classic, but it isn't that easy to find a decent 225 coupe with good miles.
I would love to pick one of these up in good nick (along with a ford puma) and squirrel away for the future. The blue colour above is gorgeous and I tried to get one in that colour but very rare, almost like Porsche cobalt blue
My roadster does have the instrument display issue. I probably should fix it but it doesn't hugely bother me. The subframe and suspensions parts are also rusty (I park it in the street) and they need to be sorted, although it's minor. I replaced parts of the suspension a few years back as they had perished.
The engine (225 4-pot) has been very good and I've never had an issue. It's been remapped for the last ten years and that's the only mod I've ever done, although as the exhaust is a bit rusty now I might get an aftermarket one. Generally the car is pretty well-built and is still a nice place to sit.
The VAG haters will be keen to point out it's just a mk4 golf in make-up. Well, yes, and no. I've never driven a mk4 golf but I do have a mk7 golf R. Yes, the TT isn't the ultimate in driver involvement but like any car you get used to it. The roadsters are loose compared with the coupes but anyone who can't get fun out of it doesn't know how to drive. You're not going to buy one for the track and if you want a 2-door for the occasional B-road weekend fun then you'd be better off with an Elise.
I swapped in my coupe because I wanted a convertible, and something that could also do cross-continent trips in comfort. So the Elise was crossed off, a Boxster was way more than I wanted to spend (as was the then-new Z4) and while I loved the S2000, it was not the nicest place to sit.
I considered getting rid of mine, especially as I do less than 1000 miles a year in it now, but other than tax and insurance it doesn't cost much to keep going. Service intervals are long.
Audi's reaction was swift and added a stubby boot spoiler to interrupt the otherwise clean profile. This modification was offered free of charge to all TT owners and most took it up. There are still a handful of unmodified cars around, which are arguably worth collecting for their purity of line but not worth paying any more for.
i.e. CAR mag took it to their Annual Handling Day when launched and it won out of their affordable cars - stuff like an Accord Type R which people rave about currently got pushed down the finishing order.
Likewise Autocar said it was a proper drivers' car in their original test and the best sporty Audi you could buy from a handling viewpoint
It was after the high speed stability changes were introduced that the mags went lukewarm on it.
CAR wrote an article reckoning it had been ruined from a driving perspective.
If it had been a Porsche or Ferrari I don't think they'd have had to make the changes at all. They've sold many cars which have been just as 'edgy' but Audi tends to be seen as a more responsible and safe mainstream brand
I still recall the buzz when these came out. In fact, the company that I worked for at the time was acquired and I was fortunate to do well out of it. I went into Audi in Cambridge to buy a new one, but didn't have the balls to buy a car outright. Next company I joined gave me a car allowance and I purchased a Elise!
The build quality of the TT is very good and it feels a nice place to be. For the price £2K, you won't be disappointed. I agree, a remap makes it the car it should have been. The 225 version still delivers mid-30s mpg, feels solid, has air con, 0-60 under 6secs with remap, 4 wheel drive, leather seats, still looks great........ Great value! However, there are some dog's out there so be careful.
I'm 40 in a week, still haven't bought the Porsche I've been promising myself for most of those 4 decades, and I'm beginning to think the mid-life crisis may have to begin with a TT until I can upgrade to a Boxster/Cayman because I can't afford a 911.
really well built car, i think they look great but must be the most boring driving and steering i have ever driven, was shame as i would have liked to replace it with a quatto sport
Tuck away a low mileage 225, V6 or Quattro Sport and I bet it would be worth a few quid in another ten years.
Cambelt interval started at 115k miles in the service book (mine was a 2002) but was dropped to 80k because it turned out 115k was very optimistic; most owners and indies advise jumping at 60-65k to be certain. Water pump, belt tensioner and damper should all be changed at the same time, most often its the damper or tensioner that seize and strip the teeth off the belt. Metal impeller water pump is a god upgrade but not really necessary if the pump is switched out regularly.
Thermostat and alternator are a pain in the arse due to access underneath the inlet manifold, easy enough DIY but will cost in labour otherwise.
Sump pick up pipes can become blocked, so at this sort of age look for a car that's had the sump dropped and pick up cleaned or replaced.
Turbos last well if looked after properly, I sold my 225 on 150k with 50k of that being under a remap, turbo was strong. Key to turbo life is allowing it to cool down and making sure you have the right grade of oil and regular oil changes. Any fully synthetic of right viscosity will do, Audi spec is Mobil 1 not Castrol, I used Motul most of the time.
Clutches are totally dependent on driver style, mine started slipping at 120k not long after the remap.
Roof rails rust but these come off and can be painted pretty easily. Other rust points are the tailgate around the number plate lamps, it seems water gets in through the spoiler mount where the adhesive starts to break up and then the water sloshing about inside the box section rots it from the inside out.
Rear springs take a beating and known to snap, getting the right replacements from Audi can be nightmare due to confusion over original spec - you won't be able to see any markings on the springs either. Rear alignment is awkward to get spot on as not much adjustment, rose joints fail on original control arms due to rust; many people fit fully adjustable arms to get toe and camber right, but even these suffer rust to the adjusters which then seize.
Boost leaks can be a perennial issue, more likely if you're inclined to start fiddling with it
. Vacuum hoses underneath the intake manifold are prime culprits. Do a WOT run in 3rd to the redline and make sure the car pulls strongly through the rev range with no flat spots or hesitation (need some clear road as you'll be doing > 80). Diagnostic software can be had for next to nothing or freeware, cables are cheap....
Probably loads more I've forgotten. Best all round car I ever had, and it got us through as a family car until our first child was 2 so they're not necessarily totally impractical either.
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