Viper Service info
Archive #6693754
OK so we now have this Sticky wiki at the top of the forum which we can all edit. I'll try and find some of my posts from the past later to add but come on guys we can get a good resource going here for information relating to keeping vipers running in tip top condition and save us having to search back and find old posts or type it all out again.
Sorry this is so easy if you cant figure it out you should probably put down the spanner. However here are some tips
The sump is 8-10L so that small washing up bowl isn't going to handle that, get two.
There are now three MOPAR oil filters.
Other popular filters in use are
It is also important to ensure the power steering cap is securely tightened and remains so. The cap can have a habit of loosening and coming off on its own so it is advised to check it every time you have the hood up. Alternatively there are kits available that prevent the cap coming loose.
Note: The power steering reservoir is directly above the exhaust header and power steering fluid is flammable. There are cases of engine fires as a result of missing reservoir caps.
Red or Green? Both are ethylene Glycol based coolants the Red coolant is long life 5 year OAT coolant and standard fill on most modern vehicles, the green is the older three year life coolant which was standard fill on Gen 1 and 2 vipers. The Red and Green coolants are reported not to be compatible and mixing the two can result in a gel forming and blocking parts of the cooling system resulting in overheating. It is also reported that replacing green with red in a system that was designed for green can lead to seal failure.
The coolants contain various additives to prevent corrosion etc. these are used up gradually no matter if your Viper is out honing or sitting in the garage under a tarp so it is important to observe the change interval no matter how much driving you do. Generally it is a good idea to change the coolant every 2 years.
When you change the coolant it is important to get as much out as possible, so turn the heater to hot to open up the valve in the heating circuit, and don’t forget to vacuum the coolant from the overflow bottle in the facia and refill it with fresh.
There are two block drain points one on each cylinder bank and can be accessed from under the car, on Gen2 the Right hand on is conveniently located above a sensor that makes getting to it a little more hassle than it needed to be. If you can get these drain plugs out it is worthwhile as another half bucket of coolant will drain from these.
It is a good idea to flush through the system with fresh water to clean it out. I usually do this buy flushing through the system with tap water until it flows clear at the drain plugs, replace the plugs and fill the system with water. There is a bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing but this has a habit of seizing and given the size of the plug, an uncommon size plug wrench and where it is located many do not attempt to use this, an alternative is to fit the ROE Silicone hoses with a bleed valve or start the engine and let things warm up a little, keeping an eye on the temperature, when it starts getting hot the thermostat will open and vent the system. If things are getting too hot and the thermostat hasn’t opened, shut down the engine and let the heat soak open the thermostat. Once things are circulating well, and don’t forget the heater. Shut it all down and wait for it too cool. Drain and repeat until you are happy you have got out most of the old coolant. On the last flush use Deionised water so that you have very little tap water left in the system when you fill it for real.
When filling the system for the last time, add the correct amount of coolant first as there will be some water left in the system. Also out of this, mix up some to the correct dilution (50/50) and fill the overflow bottle in the facia. Once you have all the coolant in, top it off with deionised water, you will probably not be able to get the last litre or so in due to retained water in the block.
Once you have burped out the air below the thermostat, any further air should naturally vent the system over several hot/cold cycles. Keep an eye on the overflow level in the facia and top up as necessary. The system does work on a siphon to the overflow bottle so any leak in the system, no matter how small will break this resulting in air being drawn back in rather than coolant and usually resulting in running a few degrees hot, so fix any of those that you see.
Don’t forget, coolant will be hot and under pressure during parts of this process so no excuses for a visit to A&E.
Rear Break pad replacement
DO NOT force the piston back in with a C clamp as you might do with other systems as this will damage the mechanism. Due to the hand break mechanism the rear break piston needs to be wound back into the calliper with a special tool. If you do not have the special tool some report success with long nose pliers. Others have constructed their own version of the special tool.
If anybody has had success with the tools which have been seen in general car spares shops which resemble a cube with various protrusions to universally fit multiple systems and are marketed for this purpose, I would be interested to hear if they fit the viper.
Spark plug P/n Champion RC12-LYC torque to 20 lbs
Gen3
Stub
Gen4
Stub
UK Chrysler part numbers for VIPER service fluids
| Order No | Part No | CX Description | Approx £ | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C05103526EA | 021E03 | Lubricant GEA | £18.31 | Diff oil | |
| C05103524EA | 021D06 | oil Power Ste | £3.52 | Power steering fluid |
| C05103522EA | 021E02 | Additive Axle | £4.49 | Friction modifier |
| C04874459EA | - | Lubricant Transmission | £25.73 | Synthetic trans oil |
| C04267020AB | 004C05 | Antifreeze 3 year | £9.86 | Green coloured |
Engine Oil
Sorry this is so easy if you cant figure it out you should probably put down the spanner. However here are some tips
The sump is 8-10L so that small washing up bowl isn't going to handle that, get two.
There are now three MOPAR oil filters.
- Original Fitted Gen 1 through 3 and the jeep, Chrysler should have loads (Mopar 05281090) with Mobil1 10W-30 oil
- New Viper specific, as above but incorporating the new Gen 4 design and has the viper logo on it (Mopar 5037836)
- Gen 4, not compatible with previous years but new design provides for better flow and higher oil pressures.
Other popular filters in use are
| Filter | Part No |
|---|---|
| Mobil 1 | M1-204 |
Transmission Oil
stubDiff Fluid
stubPower steering Fluid
Simplest method which flushes most of the power steering system with new fluid is as follows- Drain the power steering reservoir with a suction pump.
- Refill to the cold mark and replace cap.
- Start the Engine
- Turn the steering Lock to Lock three times.
- Turn off engine
- Repeat this process 3 times.
It is also important to ensure the power steering cap is securely tightened and remains so. The cap can have a habit of loosening and coming off on its own so it is advised to check it every time you have the hood up. Alternatively there are kits available that prevent the cap coming loose.
Note: The power steering reservoir is directly above the exhaust header and power steering fluid is flammable. There are cases of engine fires as a result of missing reservoir caps.
Brake Fluid
stubClutch Fluid
stubCoolant
50/50 mix - 6 litres of coolant/6 litres of distilled water for a complete changeRed or Green? Both are ethylene Glycol based coolants the Red coolant is long life 5 year OAT coolant and standard fill on most modern vehicles, the green is the older three year life coolant which was standard fill on Gen 1 and 2 vipers. The Red and Green coolants are reported not to be compatible and mixing the two can result in a gel forming and blocking parts of the cooling system resulting in overheating. It is also reported that replacing green with red in a system that was designed for green can lead to seal failure.
The coolants contain various additives to prevent corrosion etc. these are used up gradually no matter if your Viper is out honing or sitting in the garage under a tarp so it is important to observe the change interval no matter how much driving you do. Generally it is a good idea to change the coolant every 2 years.
When you change the coolant it is important to get as much out as possible, so turn the heater to hot to open up the valve in the heating circuit, and don’t forget to vacuum the coolant from the overflow bottle in the facia and refill it with fresh.
There are two block drain points one on each cylinder bank and can be accessed from under the car, on Gen2 the Right hand on is conveniently located above a sensor that makes getting to it a little more hassle than it needed to be. If you can get these drain plugs out it is worthwhile as another half bucket of coolant will drain from these.
It is a good idea to flush through the system with fresh water to clean it out. I usually do this buy flushing through the system with tap water until it flows clear at the drain plugs, replace the plugs and fill the system with water. There is a bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing but this has a habit of seizing and given the size of the plug, an uncommon size plug wrench and where it is located many do not attempt to use this, an alternative is to fit the ROE Silicone hoses with a bleed valve or start the engine and let things warm up a little, keeping an eye on the temperature, when it starts getting hot the thermostat will open and vent the system. If things are getting too hot and the thermostat hasn’t opened, shut down the engine and let the heat soak open the thermostat. Once things are circulating well, and don’t forget the heater. Shut it all down and wait for it too cool. Drain and repeat until you are happy you have got out most of the old coolant. On the last flush use Deionised water so that you have very little tap water left in the system when you fill it for real.
When filling the system for the last time, add the correct amount of coolant first as there will be some water left in the system. Also out of this, mix up some to the correct dilution (50/50) and fill the overflow bottle in the facia. Once you have all the coolant in, top it off with deionised water, you will probably not be able to get the last litre or so in due to retained water in the block.
Once you have burped out the air below the thermostat, any further air should naturally vent the system over several hot/cold cycles. Keep an eye on the overflow level in the facia and top up as necessary. The system does work on a siphon to the overflow bottle so any leak in the system, no matter how small will break this resulting in air being drawn back in rather than coolant and usually resulting in running a few degrees hot, so fix any of those that you see.
Don’t forget, coolant will be hot and under pressure during parts of this process so no excuses for a visit to A&E.
Chassis Lube
stubPCV
stubBrake Pads/Disks
Rear Break pad replacement
DO NOT force the piston back in with a C clamp as you might do with other systems as this will damage the mechanism. Due to the hand break mechanism the rear break piston needs to be wound back into the calliper with a special tool. If you do not have the special tool some report success with long nose pliers. Others have constructed their own version of the special tool.
If anybody has had success with the tools which have been seen in general car spares shops which resemble a cube with various protrusions to universally fit multiple systems and are marketed for this purpose, I would be interested to hear if they fit the viper.
Spark Plugs and Wires
Gen1, Gen2Spark plug P/n Champion RC12-LYC torque to 20 lbs
Gen3
Stub
Gen4
Stub
Washer Fluid