Rust converter products

[eng622]

Having removed as much loose rust and flaking paint as possible from the chassis I intend to use one of these milky/grey liqiuds that turn blue/black. Problem is there are so many on the market and not all are good from what I have read. Ruling out any with phosphoric acid, the need for the surface to be dampened or wiping off powder when dry (Fertan). Not sure about Ferrozinc either as most zinc products need good clean steel.
I'm looking at these, any comments?
Vactan - vinyl acrylic co-polymer containing tannic acid, found on ebay
Neutra Rust 661 - an older product, much copied but still highly rated
Granville heavy duty - better adhesion if surface dampened, from Frost's
Wurth- have used this, a body shop gave me some, but cannot find a source

[HarryW]

Used bog standard 'Krust' before now, I think its the active ingredient in 'Hammerite' too. Its thin white like milk to apply, it turns black when gone off. Seemed good to me as I prepped the old wishbones on my old V8S with it and never got around to putting the Hammerite over the top, the wishbones stayed that black with no rust re growth 18 months later so can't be that bad.

[V8 GRF]

Here some links to Wurth Stockists in GB here

Also a page with the product on from the US here

[jonjo]

Thirty years ago I used Wymark's Rustroy on a sandblasted chassis and body-tub of a 1969 TR6 - there are still no signs of any rust and the car lives outside and gets used in the wet as well as the dry.

I haven't used Rustroy for years and I thought the product was no longer made but a quick search brought it up on Google.

jonjo

Edited by jonjo on Wednesday 2nd January 22:32

[HarryW]

jonjo said:

Thirty years ago I used Wymark's Rustroy on a sandblasted chassis and body-tub of a 1969 TR6 - there are still no signs of any rust and the car lives outside and gets used in the wet as well as the dry.

I haven't used Rustroy for years and I thought the product was no longer made but a quick search brought it up on Google.

jonjo

That beats my 18months by some way. When I get under the Cerb I'll remember that, funny enough the only bits that need doing are the front wishbones

[eng622]

Had a look on google for Rustroy and according to the Wymark website it can be used to prime over clean steel and paint as well as rusted steel, so sounds an ideal base primer for the Griff chassis. Not sure where you can get it from so emailed them. Jonjo, did you paint over the product on yout TR6? I'm always worried with these types of products as you never know whether they are going to flake off or the finish burst due to further rusting under the coating, but yours seems to have stood the test of time.

[jonjo]

Yeah I sprayed on several coats of David's Bonda Primer (great stuff) followed by an acrylic gloss black brush on paint. A few years later I topped it off with Tectyl 300 Clear.

jonjo

[eng622]

Just had a reply about Rustroy, it's only available in 5L cans, recon that's enough to do about 10/20 Griff's chassis/suspension. It's £55 delivered, not expensive for the amount, I guess

[retromiceter]

Morning, i know this post is rather old but its a current problem i have, just wan't to know who i need to email about the rust roy stuff??? be much appreciated if you could get back to me.

I'm buying a Honda CRX Vtec in white on a H reg, and it seems to have a few spots of rust round the rear arches, i've heard lots of things from various people, some say if its sorted properly it won't return for at least a couple of years, other seem to think a couple of months regardless of the quality of the job, can anyone tell me how they've got on after repairing surface rust and how they did it.

Thanks.