MK4 Golf GTi and GTTDI common faults?
Discussion
I've had my gt tdi 150 for 12 months doing 27k. Now on 134K
only broke down once due to blocked fuel filter which cost me £12 to replace. No problems since apart from rear axle bushes going which is common on high mileage.
Make sure cambelt has been done every 4 yrs/60K and has FSH showing serviced every 10-20K depedning on service schedule it is set at. Should be filled up with proper VW spec PD oil.
I have heard stories and seen possts of the cam lobes breaking but touchwood i have not had that issue.
For more info check - http://uk-mkivs.net/
only broke down once due to blocked fuel filter which cost me £12 to replace. No problems since apart from rear axle bushes going which is common on high mileage.
Make sure cambelt has been done every 4 yrs/60K and has FSH showing serviced every 10-20K depedning on service schedule it is set at. Should be filled up with proper VW spec PD oil.
I have heard stories and seen possts of the cam lobes breaking but touchwood i have not had that issue.
For more info check - http://uk-mkivs.net/
Windows - they WILL fall into the door unless they have had the upgraded metal clips / regulator replaced.
Cambelt change along with tensioners and water pump (plastic impeller fails).
Rear axle bushes go soft.
Climatronic can cause expensive problems so manual aircon is best.
Main thing is to buy one that has been well cared for and is original - they are great cars but will show up problems / wear if they have been abused.
1.8t is a great alrounder with good smooth performance, better/lower suspension (150 TDI may have this too) and superb MPG - easy 35 average and 40 possible.
130 TDI is very good with few issues but poorer spec. 50ish MPG
150 TDIs are know to have engine and possible clutch/gearbox issues.
Cambelt change along with tensioners and water pump (plastic impeller fails).
Rear axle bushes go soft.
Climatronic can cause expensive problems so manual aircon is best.
Main thing is to buy one that has been well cared for and is original - they are great cars but will show up problems / wear if they have been abused.
1.8t is a great alrounder with good smooth performance, better/lower suspension (150 TDI may have this too) and superb MPG - easy 35 average and 40 possible.
130 TDI is very good with few issues but poorer spec. 50ish MPG
150 TDIs are know to have engine and possible clutch/gearbox issues.
The 1.8 T i've seen has only 51000 on the clock and i'm just awaiting a reply on the what the service history is on the car at the minute. Another 1.8 i've seen has 90000 on the clock but comes with a full VWSH. Is it really the case that mileage isnt an issue if it has been serviced as per VW's schedual? What about turbo lifespan on the petrol and diesel models?
I have had a couple of 1.8Ts - bought at 80k and sold at 125k. Both were mint when bought (and still were when sold) and gave no problems, except for the windows!!! Turbos etc all original. Both bought privately from sensible mature owners - I was very comfortable with fact they had not beeen abused.
my 130 gt tdi is fantastic
nothing has gone wrong with it at all and runs like a dream even at 110k miles.
just make sure cam belt has been replaced every 60k ish miles and be wary of the turbos on the 150s, they are prone to breaking especially if you get the car remapped.
oh yeah and as someone else has mentioned you need to use proper vw oil in them.
To the guy who said 130s are poorer spec what do you mean? mine is quite a high spec one fair enough it doesnt have leather seats but its got recaro style seats, air con, electric all round, alloys, colour coded and spoiler.
nothing has gone wrong with it at all and runs like a dream even at 110k miles.
just make sure cam belt has been replaced every 60k ish miles and be wary of the turbos on the 150s, they are prone to breaking especially if you get the car remapped.
oh yeah and as someone else has mentioned you need to use proper vw oil in them.
To the guy who said 130s are poorer spec what do you mean? mine is quite a high spec one fair enough it doesnt have leather seats but its got recaro style seats, air con, electric all round, alloys, colour coded and spoiler.
No falts from my 130GTTDI 121,000 miles now.
Basically everything said above, cambelt is pricey so try and get one thats been done (with water pump).
Great on motorway and in a straight line, i would not get another mainly beause its to heavy and wallows in corners and parts are pricey (but not needed any yet, touch wood)
Plan to take mine to the 170,000 make, will see if it makes it.
Basically everything said above, cambelt is pricey so try and get one thats been done (with water pump).
Great on motorway and in a straight line, i would not get another mainly beause its to heavy and wallows in corners and parts are pricey (but not needed any yet, touch wood)
Plan to take mine to the 170,000 make, will see if it makes it.
My 115 GT Tdi done 170K and no major faults.
2 minor niggles. Rear wash wipe leaks in to the boot sometimes, so i replace the clips and the washer bottle sensor has packed in...
I get it regularly serviced at a good independant, who uses VW parts.
MOT last week, full clean bill of health.
Gonna push mine to 250K!
2 minor niggles. Rear wash wipe leaks in to the boot sometimes, so i replace the clips and the washer bottle sensor has packed in...
I get it regularly serviced at a good independant, who uses VW parts.
MOT last week, full clean bill of health.
Gonna push mine to 250K!
Before buying, check your radiator fans if the car has climatronic.
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/59897.aspx
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/59897.aspx
My cupra ( also 1.8t ) has done 125000 miles so iv seen Every common fault...
1. coilpacks ( control the spark plugs ) around 70 quid
2. MAF sensor about 40 quid
3. Plastic waterpump tends to shatter
4. oe diverter valve fails ( also known as a dump valve ) , replace with a Forge 007p dump valve.
5. Door seals are crap so check for wet carpits.
I know this sounds alot but its well worth it for an turbo engine which is easily tuneable.
1. coilpacks ( control the spark plugs ) around 70 quid
2. MAF sensor about 40 quid
3. Plastic waterpump tends to shatter
4. oe diverter valve fails ( also known as a dump valve ) , replace with a Forge 007p dump valve.
5. Door seals are crap so check for wet carpits.
I know this sounds alot but its well worth it for an turbo engine which is easily tuneable.
I've had a 150pd since 2007 and it has been the best car in regards to passing every M.O.T with flying colours and just being reliable although when the engine doesn't sound great - it just keeps going! However after 120k the 1st cam was rounded and had to replace the shaft, and for some reason (think it was the oil choice) had to replace it again within the year at 134k when the 3rd cam got rounded. Steering pump, tensioner, window mechanism are the only replacement parts done since 2007 (apart from service parts) and unfortunately since 165k there has been a clatter from the DMF and now at 180k I can feel it through the pedals. Love it, but I have learned through a costly way to use the best oil at all times! I am of course looking for a new car to avoid further costs at this point.
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