Polishing out scratches in watch face...
Discussion
I use Micromesh on my vintage watch crystals. Just work up through the grades and then give it a final polish and they come up like new with very little work. Even really bad scratches.
I've Got the top kit on this link and it's lasted a few years now.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_...
I've Got the top kit on this link and it's lasted a few years now.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_...
eccles said:
I use Micromesh on my vintage watch crystals. Just work up through the grades and then give it a final polish and they come up like new with very little work. Even really bad scratches.
I've Got the top kit on this link and it's lasted a few years now.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_...
Of the few watches I have polished up I have found polywatch pretty useless for removing scratches. I have used similar to the above with very very good results. The only thing is you have to have the confidence to do it as the first grade looks like you have destroyed your watch but slowly thru the finer grades the crystal clears beautifully I've Got the top kit on this link and it's lasted a few years now.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_...
This is what I use - 3m Micron Polishing Paper
http://www.silverclay.co.uk/shto.htm
the one I use first depends on the depth of the scratch
Edited by sparkyhx on Friday 12th February 16:41
Edited by sparkyhx on Friday 12th February 16:42
sneijder said:
I've heard stories of Brasso being the same sort of stuff, not having a collection of horse brasses I don't have any lying around though.
It is pretty good, but you have to be careful as it will affect the bezel/case if you aren't precise. Not really an issue with steel, but gold plate can be thinned.Hi all
If you have a scratch on an acrylic crystal, don't be tempted to polish just the scratch as the depression that it will leave will catch the light and look awful, do the whole of the crystal evenly with the afore mentioned polywatch/brasso/ toothpaste/solvol autosol then it will look fine..
if you have a scratch in mineral glass, the job becomes a whole lot harder, it will take around thirty minutes and your fingertips will feel like they're ready to drop off!!!
the 'proper' way to do it would be to use a nasty substance called Cerium oxide (really bad for any life form if inhaled!), the way i did mine was to place wet and dry paper on a sheet of glass (for the 'flatness' or level surface ), i then wet it with water/fairy liquid, held the watch crystal down and went back and forth.
I work as a burner in a heavy foundry and it's hard on watches, here's my old work watch (it was getting hard to tell the time with it )
the burn @ 9'clock was very deep and wouldn't come out unless i had a lot longer at removing it..
once i had the crystal more or less evenly opaque, i used newspaper with brasso poured on and again used the back and forth rubbing method, i kept buffing up the crystal with a clean cloth until i was satisfied with the result (actually, my fingers were too sore to continue )
the result...
i forgot to say that i laid the newspaper on the sheet of glass as i did with the abrasive paper;)
I also had a polish at the case with the brasso....
Good luck with your watch mate;)
Regards, John
If you have a scratch on an acrylic crystal, don't be tempted to polish just the scratch as the depression that it will leave will catch the light and look awful, do the whole of the crystal evenly with the afore mentioned polywatch/brasso/ toothpaste/solvol autosol then it will look fine..
if you have a scratch in mineral glass, the job becomes a whole lot harder, it will take around thirty minutes and your fingertips will feel like they're ready to drop off!!!
the 'proper' way to do it would be to use a nasty substance called Cerium oxide (really bad for any life form if inhaled!), the way i did mine was to place wet and dry paper on a sheet of glass (for the 'flatness' or level surface ), i then wet it with water/fairy liquid, held the watch crystal down and went back and forth.
I work as a burner in a heavy foundry and it's hard on watches, here's my old work watch (it was getting hard to tell the time with it )
the burn @ 9'clock was very deep and wouldn't come out unless i had a lot longer at removing it..
once i had the crystal more or less evenly opaque, i used newspaper with brasso poured on and again used the back and forth rubbing method, i kept buffing up the crystal with a clean cloth until i was satisfied with the result (actually, my fingers were too sore to continue )
the result...
i forgot to say that i laid the newspaper on the sheet of glass as i did with the abrasive paper;)
I also had a polish at the case with the brasso....
Good luck with your watch mate;)
Regards, John
sparkyhx said:
eccles said:
I use Micromesh on my vintage watch crystals. Just work up through the grades and then give it a final polish and they come up like new with very little work. Even really bad scratches.
I've Got the top kit on this link and it's lasted a few years now.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_...
Of the few watches I have polished up I have found polywatch pretty useless for removing scratches. I have used similar to the above with very very good results. The only thing is you have to have the confidence to do it as the first grade looks like you have destroyed your watch but slowly thru the finer grades the crystal clears beautifully I've Got the top kit on this link and it's lasted a few years now.
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_...
This is what I use - 3m Micron Polishing Paper
http://www.silverclay.co.uk/shto.htm
the one I use first depends on the depth of the scratch
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