Hydraulic Tappets.
Discussion
I personally wouldn't recommend adjusting hydraulic tappets. By their very nature they are sprung loaded against the followers and all you may do is over load them. Many people replace them with solid lifters for this reason and because they are more predictable from a tuning point of view.
IIRC, the hydraulic lifters are in the bottom of the engine on the cam, and if they are, then it's not a realistic DIY job.
Is it time for an oil change? They rely on the engine oil to create the hydraulic effect.
I've a feeling SHPub will be along shortly to put everything into perspective.
Andy
IIRC, the hydraulic lifters are in the bottom of the engine on the cam, and if they are, then it's not a realistic DIY job.
Is it time for an oil change? They rely on the engine oil to create the hydraulic effect.
I've a feeling SHPub will be along shortly to put everything into perspective.
Andy
There's a statement on hydraulic tappets on my website. www.tvrbooks.co.uk I got the official story some time after the S bible came out. Yes don't adjust the hydarulic tappets. Tis trouble if you do.
David Batty suggested that if the car hasn't been run for a while, if you take off the rocker covers, and push down on the push rods, if their hydraulic you should feel some slight movement (against oil pressure)
however if their solid lifters they shouldn't move at all.
also if you look down the push rod tubes (which are fairly short) you should be able to tell the difference.
fairly vague i know but it was last night, and he was alittle hesistant to comment without seeing the car (which is of course fair play)
hope these snippets of info helps for anyone else
p.s. edited to say...
hydraulic lifters DO have adjusters, as stated by steve heath, which use a 'tight thread system rather than a locking nut system'
im still not sure what mine is, and will play sherlock homes tonight.
hope this helps....
>> Edited by Batty S4C on Wednesday 21st April 08:59
however if their solid lifters they shouldn't move at all.
also if you look down the push rod tubes (which are fairly short) you should be able to tell the difference.
fairly vague i know but it was last night, and he was alittle hesistant to comment without seeing the car (which is of course fair play)
hope these snippets of info helps for anyone else
p.s. edited to say...
hydraulic lifters DO have adjusters, as stated by steve heath, which use a 'tight thread system rather than a locking nut system'
im still not sure what mine is, and will play sherlock homes tonight.
hope this helps....
>> Edited by Batty S4C on Wednesday 21st April 08:59
If the section Steve was referring to is correct, then only a small batch of early S3C cars will have the hydraulic lifters,S1, S2, S3, late S3C and S4C shouldn't have them.
Andy
SHPub's website said:
The S series V6 engine tappets.
The bible refers to adjusting these tappets on both the 2.8 and 2.9 V6 engines. It has come to light that some of the catalytic equipped 2.9 litre V6 engines were fitted with hydraulic lifters and therefore do not need their tappets adjusted. This was discussed on Pistonheads in March and it was stated at that time that all S3C engines had hydraulic tappets. Interestingly enough, many of the other 2.9 litre manuals for the Sierra and Scorpio for cars made during this period make no mention of any hydraulic lifters. In addition, none of the archive material I have refers to this either.
I have been looking into this and came up with some interesting information from TVR which states that from around May 1991, the S3C engine was fitted with a S3 type of engine with solid lifters which require the tappet adjustment. As 1991 was a big year for S3 production in both forms, it is reasonable to assume that the statement that all S3C have hydraulic tappets and therefore these do not need adjusting is wrong. To back this up, I now have confirmation from TVR.
According to TVR, S3C cars from VIN SDLDSC2P1MD011340 will be fitted with the same engine as fitted to the S3 with solid lifters (and higher compression, updated ECU). These should be treated as an ordinary 2.9 and have their tappets adjusted.
Earlier S3C should have hydraulic lifters. S2 cars are not effected and need their tappets adjusting. I also assume that the S4C has the same engine as the later S3C with solid lifters.
So contrary to the general concensus, this means that the hydraulically fitted 2.9 engines are the exception rather than the rule. This leads to several questions. The first is how do you recognise if the engine has hydraulic lifters. The short answer is that this is difficult as the tappet adjustment mechanism is present on both. With the hydraulic lifter engines, this is used to setup the pre-load.
If an hydraulic lifter car is setup as a solid lifter it will not sound right and will need to be reset. The procedure is as follows:
With the valves closed:
1. Turn the screw until there is no clearance (0.0mm).
Easier said than done especially if oil has been pressed out of the lifters and if the push rod bends. It is worth holding the pushrod in place with one hand and adjusting the clearance and then check to see if the rod moves i.e. there is still clearance.
2. With the 0mm clearance set, turn in the screw by 1.5 turns (corresponds to compressing the spring in the tappet by 2mm).
If you have any doubt over what valve type you have, I would suggest seeking professional advice.
Andy
WildfireS3 said:
Matt if you can post a pic of your tappets, I will do the same and we could compare. I have a feeling that I have std tappets.
Doesn't work. The heads and rocker covers etc are identical. The hydraulic tappets are at the BOTTOM of the pushrods, ie against the camshaft in the vee between the heads. You won't see any difference without stripping the engine right down.
AND after I mistakenly adjusted mine last year, I followed the procedure set out in shpub's suite (although I got it from elsewhere before shpub posted it) and it seemed to work fine.
>> Edited by tvrgit on Wednesday 21st April 12:50
Hi Guys (& girls perhaps).
My 1990 S2 is a bit rattly at the top end, it has manual tappets of course and therefore can be adjusted.
I did this and there was a marked improvement but it is more than tappet noise. I know the Ford lump likes frequent oil changes, neglect this and they do get noisy. The oil feed pipes inside the engine clog and engine wear is the result as these areas become starved of oil.
I'm sure we have all heard the old granada V6 rattling along the road.
I'm looking to replace my lump with a recon unit - anyone done this, if so where did you go and how much did it cost?
A Ford salvage place near me recently had a Cosworth V6 engine for little money, does this fit the S ....any mods required? It was in an accident damaged Granny so was probably OK (not too hammered).
My 1990 S2 is a bit rattly at the top end, it has manual tappets of course and therefore can be adjusted.
I did this and there was a marked improvement but it is more than tappet noise. I know the Ford lump likes frequent oil changes, neglect this and they do get noisy. The oil feed pipes inside the engine clog and engine wear is the result as these areas become starved of oil.
I'm sure we have all heard the old granada V6 rattling along the road.
I'm looking to replace my lump with a recon unit - anyone done this, if so where did you go and how much did it cost?
A Ford salvage place near me recently had a Cosworth V6 engine for little money, does this fit the S ....any mods required? It was in an accident damaged Granny so was probably OK (not too hammered).
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff