Outrigger to body gap

[ketvrin]

Has anyone ever made an attempt to fill the gap between the outriggers and the bodywork before? I found all sorts of rubble between the tube and the sill and can see why it collects and how it becomes a moisture trap causing corrosion. I have cleaned it up as best I can, converted the rust and hammerited as much as I can reach (!?!). Just now when its clean and dry, it would be a good time to fill this gap.. silican seal seems like a likely contender, or expanding foam perhaps (lacks flexibility and water sealing properties I suppose...)

anyone ever done this ? or is it a no no ?

opinions please...

[RJC-S3]

I would have thought that sealing it would create a great big trough for the water to collect in. Unless you mean sealing it from the top. Possible with a lot of silicon but a big mess.

[GreenV8S]

The powder coating had come off the body mounting plates at the front of the outriggers on mine. Since I'm not lifting the body I couldn't paint them properly, so I've painted them as far as I can and then used duck tape to seal them up to the body and flooded the area with thinned waxoil. I figure there's a chance that some of it will seep into the gap between the metal and rubber and give it some protection, and having the cavity at the front filled with waxoil will discourage water and muck from accumulating on the plate. I'll probably put duck tape on the front afterwards to give it even more protection, but the back will be left open.

[ketvrin]

He-He... where would we be without duct tape eh ? thats the problem I face, filling the gap or creating a cavity after treatment but ensuring no more ingress. I reckon I could waxoyl after hammerite but dont know if silicon will stick to waxoyl, so I would probably hammerite then silicon only. I reckon I could do it without too much mess, and it would take a few tubes, but the cost is nowt compared to rotting outriggers. I think I will do it anyway, but wondered if someone had already tried it...
If I do it, I'll photo the results and let you see/laugh.

[spludge]

I wouldn't.

As RJC said you'll end up with a trough or voids where water will collect, and it will find its way in sooner or later. I've not used silicon sealant on a car but I know from bitter experience that it won't stick to dirt, grease, soap or limescale (or waxoyl). Everything has to be squeaky clean otherwise it will start to lift as soon as it cures and that will leave a path for water ingress. If I were looking to buy a car and saw silicon sealant used anywhere like that I'd walk away.

I'm still scraping and sanding the front end, I'll get to the outriggers in a week or so. I plan to clean up, derust, paint and waxoyl probably with the thicker underbody sealer. Maintenance of the paint and coating will be a periodic service task. That seems to be the PH standard chassis treatment. I'll also add some short mudflaps to the bottom of the inner wings to give a little protection to the outrigger fronts.

K

[F908 Tim]

I can help a bit.

Have done the front nearside corner as I drive through a lot of crap and muddy verges daily living out in the sticks. The Nearside always filled with mud and stones but the other side was always pretty clean.

I slapped loads of coats of hammerite on the previously rubbed down metal of both the front and side outrigger plus the triangular plate securing the body. Once happy it was protected as best possible,I filled the void between the outrigger at the front and the body above. I filled it with expanding foam, and when that was dry,covered the front surface with mastic and smoothed it off.Then applied mastic above the front outrigger support and arround the triangular plate. Waxoiled generously, and made a couple of mudflaps for the front hanging down over the front outriggers.

Left for two and a half years to weather and decided I had best take a look to see if all was still ok.
Took it all out...and it was all as good as I had left it
Re-applied foam,mastic and waxoil again last summer

Think you need to put enough mastic into the joint so as to make a nice curve to drain the water rather than collect it, but if you take time to do it properly it works a treat.The mastic can loosen on the plastic body rather than the metal but a re-application to close the gap sorts it.
Mudflaps to protect each front corner are a big, big help.

[ketvrin]

Hmmmm I can see you are doing the same job as me Spludge - commiserations. I was suggesting to fill the void completely so as not to create a gully of any sort to collect water/muck, but I hear what you say about it not sticking to anything less than clean, hence rethink on waxoyl. I was being persuaded when F908TIM came along and gave me hopeagain I was also planning to fit small extensions to the inner wheel arch to protect the leading edge of the front outrigger bar. what are you using for yours?

I'm undecided now and I kinda get what you mean about buying a car with mastic/silicon visible - it looks dodgy I know, but I'm not planning on selling yet so thats not an issue. I just want to protect the finish for as long as possible... I dont want to do this job again ever - I think I'd rather chew my own leg off

See what other opinions come in, but thanks for suggestions so far...

[pies]

If you search tvrgits website he made some extensions to the inner wheel arch

[spludge]

I bought some 3mm x 75mm rubber strip from Woolies a while back to replace the bump stops for the bonnet. I have enough of that left over to make a couple of mudflaps. Anything of the right size with a bit of flex would do the job, a bit off an old rubber mat would do.

[tvrgit]

pies said:

If you search tvrgits website he made some extensions to the inner wheel arch

I did it in July 2006, to save you searching. Cost me 80p I think for a bit of black plastic card from a modelling shop. They are only tiny but I think they make all the difference in protecting that vulnerable front corner from road crap.

Well I hope they do!

I am just about to embark on a wire wheel / Hammerite campaign again so we'll see...

[F908 Tim]

Mine are similar but I cut out pieces of rubber matting with a strip of steel bar and a few self tappers at the top to secure. They certainly do the job. I check mine every month or so and it's as clean as a whistle apart from the waxoil over everything.
I know what you mean about the sealant over everything and thought long and hard before deciding to give it a try. The surfaces do need to be clean and painted first of course. I put sandpaper over the top of the outriggers and push/pulled it through the gap between cill and outrigger.Cleaned it all after with petrol, then three coats of hammerite making sure it went all around the tubes. messy and time consuming, but it's not a monthly job! Every 18 months perhaps.

I reckon that the only really vulnerable section is the front behind the arch, the rest only needs paint and waxoil as it is not really exposed to stone chips etc as are the crosspieces. Photos of badly corroded body off repairs don't normally show the outriggers are bad beyond the front quarter even when evidently untreated.
For what it's worth,I would not seal the sides after painting, but concentrate on the fronts.

[ketvrin]

Yep that job has just joined my list. I'll get some suitable plastic/rubber and follow your leads... Thanks all for the info.
I had a quick look at TVRGIT's site and coincidentally went straight to the replacement top ball joint page... my offside one is knackered (saab 900 - right ?)so it made interesting reading - funny as well ref the Halfords assistant

[F908 Tim]

900 or 9000. Don't forget, you will need to organise longer bolts as those in set are to short.

[ketvrin]

F908 Tim said:

900 or 9000. Don't forget, you will need to organise longer bolts as those in set are to short.

Will do, thanks for the tip

[z_chromozone]

Amoung my other jobs this winter is the complete fabrication of guards that run the whole length of the car covering the ourriggers and wrapping in under the arches. I have the ali sheet and some self tapping ali screws, all I need now is some ramp time at my friends place. I think that two pieces each side should make them easier to remove for inspection and a little easier to fabricate.

Of course I still have to fit my big brake package, reposition the rad, construct my new air intake ducting and re-veneer the dash. If I get time perhaps polish and repaint the wheels.

Busy, busy,

Z

[GreenV8S]

z_chromozone said:

Of course I still have to ... construct my new air intake ducting

How're you doing it? Took me ages to get it to clear the bonnet.

[ketvrin]

z_chromozone said:

Amoung my other jobs this winter is the complete fabrication of guards that run the whole length of the car covering the ourriggers and wrapping in under the arches. I have the ali sheet and some self tapping ali screws, all I need now is some ramp time at my friends place. I think that two pieces each side should make them easier to remove for inspection and a little easier to fabricate.

Z

Blimey ! mud-flaps and outrigger protection all in one ! I hope you are going to post pictures of the finished article. See thats the difference between a scientist and an engineer... I'm going to make my mudflaps from an old black plastic dustbin and protect my outriggers with Bathroom sealant - sheesh ! (maybe use some duct tape as well ??)

[z_chromozone]

GreenV8S said:

z_chromozone said:

Of course I still have to ... construct my new air intake ducting

How're you doing it? Took me ages to get it to clear the bonnet.

Hi Peter,

I worked out that if i moved the rad 50 mm to the off side I can get the 76 mm ali intake pipe I have around the side of it. I have also purchased several silicon hoses with bends to join together the ali sections and some more ali pipe for good measure. I have a 90 deg bend which will join the pipe up with the filter in its original location using using another length of ali pipe between the two. I have a friend who is making up the pieces of plate needed to move the rad to the side. I am amazed that TVR did not do this in the first place.

From memory, your rad is completely different. i will be at the Northants meets from March onwards so you can have a look it you like.

Z

[z_chromozone]

ketvrin said:

z_chromozone said:

Amoung my other jobs this winter is the complete fabrication of guards that run the whole length of the car covering the ourriggers and wrapping in under the arches. I have the ali sheet and some self tapping ali screws, all I need now is some ramp time at my friends place. I think that two pieces each side should make them easier to remove for inspection and a little easier to fabricate.

Z

Blimey ! mud-flaps and outrigger protection all in one ! I hope you are going to post pictures of the finished article. See thats the difference between a scientist and an engineer... I'm going to make my mudflaps from an old black plastic dustbin and protect my outriggers with Bathroom sealant - sheesh ! (maybe use some duct tape as well ??)

Hi Kevin,

You can be sure I will post some pics as soon as I have finished. The car is currently on axle stands with no brakes, so I just hope I have time to finish fitting the brakes and get all the other stuff done.

Z

[GreenV8S]

z_chromozone said:

Hi Peter,

I worked out that if i moved the rad 50 mm to the off side I can get the 76 mm ali intake pipe I have around the side of it. I have also purchased several silicon hoses with bends to join together the ali sections and some more ali pipe for good measure. I have a 90 deg bend which will join the pipe up with the filter in its original location using using another length of ali pipe between the two. I have a friend who is making up the pieces of plate needed to move the rad to the side. I am amazed that TVR did not do this in the first place.

From memory, your rad is completely different. i will be at the Northants meets from March onwards so you can have a look it you like.

Z

I've done similar - air intake comes from the NS of the rad, and oil cooler is on the OS. I thought perhaps you were ducting the rad out to the grill, which is the bit I found tricky ('cos the bonnet sweeps through the space taken by the duct) but it's possible if you attach the duct to the bonnet. One of my jobs for this winter is to replace that duct (I think I'm on the fourth version now) and I'll be ducting the fan as well this time.