Rear Hub/Driveshaft Nut
Rear Hub/Driveshaft Nut
Author
Discussion

OldMrT

Original Poster:

7 posts

109 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
quotequote all
Hi everyone, a new TVR owner here :-) Just giving my new purchase a look over and I had a creak/click from the O/S/R wheel, it turned out to be a loose hub/driveshaft nut. Does anyone know the correct torque setting for this?

Many thanks

sabre

106 posts

300 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
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The nut is fecking tight or 230ib/ft.

mrzigazaga

18,656 posts

181 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
quotequote all
If its a new one then 234ftlb torque...I think its a 38mm socket and a 3ft breaker bar...possibly a lump of scaffold tube for extra leverage...An old one only needs around 180..But they should be pinned..especially the N/S...Use a castellated on the N/S so that you can line up the pre-drilled holes...don't be drilling any more...smile

OldMrT

Original Poster:

7 posts

109 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
quotequote all
Thanks sabre, I've got a torque wrench so I'll probably got for the 230 ft/lb biggrin

OldMrT

Original Poster:

7 posts

109 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
quotequote all
Mmmm, I'll check tomorrow, but I think it had a nylock nut on it, I've only looked at the O/S though, the whole rear end was refurbished a couple of years ago.

KKson

3,460 posts

141 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
quotequote all
Original nuts are nyloc. Personally I'd fit a new one, just in case, plus some Loctite! The nuts are available through TVR Parts at £22.20 each including the VAT.

grahamw48

9,944 posts

254 months

Wednesday 11th April 2018
quotequote all
Lucky you noticed before the wheel came off ... as it did on my 400SE ! yikes

Over a £1000 of damage done to the car.

Kwikfit later tightened mine for me ... with a big torque wrench and some scaffolding ! (230lbs)

Grady

1,227 posts

276 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
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Someone suggested taking it (once reassembled) to a truck/lorry suspension shop for final tightening as that torque setting is common in that type of vehicle. I think 230 is way beyond a "normal" torque wrench's ability.

adam quantrill

11,609 posts

258 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
quotequote all
In my experience 230 is what you use for a new assembly. This allows the bearing to bed in while still retaining some "nip".

Where I have not disturbed the bearing too much (either a retighten or greasing and reassembly) I use lower, around 150-180lbf is fine.

I have killed a bearing before by retorquing to the higher figure, but the lower one I haven't, and there's no play.

Split pinning is also advisable or it will undo again. Best to take off the nut, and look for existing drill holes in the shaft. then mark the end of the shaft with a file or hacksaw parallel to the drill hole. Refit and torque the nut, then drill through the old hole and fit a stout split pin. If there are no holes, just drill a new one.

mrzigazaga

18,656 posts

181 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
In my experience 230 is what you use for a new assembly. This allows the bearing to bed in while still retaining some "nip".

Where I have not disturbed the bearing too much (either a retighten or greasing and reassembly) I use lower, around 150-180lbf is fine.

I have killed a bearing before by retorquing to the higher figure, but the lower one I haven't, and there's no play.

Split pinning is also advisable or it will undo again. Best to take off the nut, and look for existing drill holes in the shaft. then mark the end of the shaft with a file or hacksaw parallel to the drill hole. Refit and torque the nut, then drill through the old hole and fit a stout split pin. If there are no holes, just drill a new one.
+1
A friend recently torqued an old nut up too tight and it cost nearly £1,000 to have it sorted, it killed the hub assembly which is TVR specific ...he had to have the stub axle machined which are like hens teeth and all the UJ's replaced...yikes

OldMrT

Original Poster:

7 posts

109 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
quotequote all
Thanks for that adam and mrzigazaga, I think I'll just keep it checked for the moment, I'm going to put a new spring/damper set on it as the previous owner had put lowered springs on it, too low!! I'll replace and pin the nut when I do them.

Really appreciate everyone's help on this, being new to these, I've got loads of questions though biggrin

KKson

3,460 posts

141 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
quotequote all
Which Wedge did you get then? We like photos...... Is it the one for sale that was running on carbs rather than Efi? Cheers.

OldMrT

Original Poster:

7 posts

109 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
quotequote all
No, it's definately running EFI, although I'm considering putting a carb on it, once I've sorted the suspension! A decision to be discussed I dare say wink






KKson

3,460 posts

141 months

Thursday 12th April 2018
quotequote all
Ah, that one! Looks great and don't put a carb on it! The EFi is a simple enough system and gives the Wedge its character. Generally most issues actually seem to be down to the HT system, a couple of sensors and earths!

For pound/smile you can't go wrong with a Wedge! Don't forget the Big Bad Wedge Fest the first weekend of July. There will be just a few Wedges there...........


OldMrT

Original Poster:

7 posts

109 months

Friday 13th April 2018
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I'll see how I go on the carb issue, I just don't want that niggling doubt in the back of my mind every time I go out in it and yes, we're booked to go to the Wedge Fest biggrin