Broke My Dashboard Wood
Discussion
Needed to clean the gauge lenses on the Tasmin. Since I had the console and pod out to replace the shifter ball and bushing I figured I’d pull the cluster. Seems I’d read of three screws holding them to the dash. I think there were seven. I was kinda bummed out at first when I cracked it right between the tach and speedo, however, I think I like it better without. Has sort of a prototype/race car look to it. Thinking I’ll get some rivnuts and black Allen screws to secure it back down. Will have to find a few black plastic plugs too. Anyone else running their dash naked?
I had a naked one for a few months because the veneer had cracked with age, I have since glued it back and revarnished it badly, but it's back on. It needs another flatting down and a few more coats of varnish to make it look nice.
I think the bare metal look is a bit too "race car" for my liking.... ;^)
I think the bare metal look is a bit too "race car" for my liking.... ;^)
I kinda dig the black. Looks more exotic and less Econoline conversion van. Guess it reminds me of the 911 I had and miss.
One other thing. What’s with the lense glass? I have the Smiths gauges and they looked kind of grubby and foggy in the night with the lights on. Is it some kind of funky anti glare texture? Looking at the glass lense removed, its kind of like looking through the bottom of a glass coke bottle. Perhaps I have cleaned off whatever was cloudy though.
One other thing. What’s with the lense glass? I have the Smiths gauges and they looked kind of grubby and foggy in the night with the lights on. Is it some kind of funky anti glare texture? Looking at the glass lense removed, its kind of like looking through the bottom of a glass coke bottle. Perhaps I have cleaned off whatever was cloudy though.
I done a Aluminum dash, for a fellow wedger, due to his one breaking also and them wanting an all aluminum one. it's a late 280 very early 350,
But also looking into getting some steel backing plates made up for the later 350's , so vinyl, CF or veneer can be applied to a flat surface as per the 400SE's, This will also be cheaper than milling an aluminum blank. esp if I can get a batch done.
But also looking into getting some steel backing plates made up for the later 350's , so vinyl, CF or veneer can be applied to a flat surface as per the 400SE's, This will also be cheaper than milling an aluminum blank. esp if I can get a batch done.
For the studs you could countersink them and trap with a lock nut on the other side I suppose. Especially if thickish aly.
Could be nice to get a few made with different veneers/finishes etc. Then when feeling a bit mad put "firestarter" on teh stereo and the carbon fibre dash in....
Could be nice to get a few made with different veneers/finishes etc. Then when feeling a bit mad put "firestarter" on teh stereo and the carbon fibre dash in....
Transmitter Man said:
Leigh,
What machine do you use for punching the holes?
Phil
420 SEAC
Hi Phil,What machine do you use for punching the holes?
Phil
420 SEAC
That one was all just cut out will a 10mm end mill and a boring bar on a milling machine, hence why it took over 14 hours.
No I have the plans and done a CAD drawing, I could get them water jet cut from any material now, and be a cheaper.
I have a friend who can aluminum or stainless weld the studs, so I could do a batch of either.
I would just need to re-do the design for the round clock that's more common.
It is interesting to see the new possibilities for dashboards. My 280i is never going to be a beautiful show car - partly because I am too lazy to put in the hours needed. So I am just working on it when I can to make it a fun car.
We are working with a company that has a large LED UV printer. They are making signs for us printing directly on clear acrylic, on both the front and mirrored on the back, giving a slight 3D effect. They also print very detailed artwork to unbelievable quality. Copying burl walnut or other wood is no problem, and it can be printed on almost any material. They just did a tabletop, maybe 9' x 4' 6", printing an old map directly on wood. The detail is incredible; but they were upset as the wood warped maybe 1/8".
In my little shop we use a product called Alumaplast (it is now produced by many companies under different names) It is a sandwich of aluminum front, resin center and aluminum back (aluminium to you). Common finishes are white or black But we mostly use a brushed Al finish. We can cut and stick vinyl to the Al, or print on clear vinyl and stick that to it. Either way the grain of the brushed finish shows through. And this week I had a sample UV printed with opacities from 10% to 100% to see the effect - at around 90% it is beautiful.
The old vinyl was limited to single colors. By printing, the colors and resolution are virtually without limit.
Holes for gauges would be cut with a lazer cutter/engraver. This machine gives other possibilities too.
Other choices are DTG and dye sublimation. Direct-to-Garment is usually used for printing directly on T-shirts, but if you can find someone with a large format machine, it could be used for a textile covered dash. Similarly dye sub can be done on many materials.
Mr. Z could have logos on seat material whether textile or leather. And, by the way, modern textile is now proving better than leather in all ways, except snob value.
My point is that there is so much new technology that we are not limited as we were just a few years ago!
Wilf.
We are working with a company that has a large LED UV printer. They are making signs for us printing directly on clear acrylic, on both the front and mirrored on the back, giving a slight 3D effect. They also print very detailed artwork to unbelievable quality. Copying burl walnut or other wood is no problem, and it can be printed on almost any material. They just did a tabletop, maybe 9' x 4' 6", printing an old map directly on wood. The detail is incredible; but they were upset as the wood warped maybe 1/8".
In my little shop we use a product called Alumaplast (it is now produced by many companies under different names) It is a sandwich of aluminum front, resin center and aluminum back (aluminium to you). Common finishes are white or black But we mostly use a brushed Al finish. We can cut and stick vinyl to the Al, or print on clear vinyl and stick that to it. Either way the grain of the brushed finish shows through. And this week I had a sample UV printed with opacities from 10% to 100% to see the effect - at around 90% it is beautiful.
The old vinyl was limited to single colors. By printing, the colors and resolution are virtually without limit.
Holes for gauges would be cut with a lazer cutter/engraver. This machine gives other possibilities too.
Other choices are DTG and dye sublimation. Direct-to-Garment is usually used for printing directly on T-shirts, but if you can find someone with a large format machine, it could be used for a textile covered dash. Similarly dye sub can be done on many materials.
Mr. Z could have logos on seat material whether textile or leather. And, by the way, modern textile is now proving better than leather in all ways, except snob value.
My point is that there is so much new technology that we are not limited as we were just a few years ago!
Wilf.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff