Red pektron 1861 steering relay

Red pektron 1861 steering relay

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burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Wednesday 21st March 2018
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Just trying to put the injection electrics back to standard the problem is the pektron 1861 steering relay is sending 7 volts to the air flow meter and to the ECU all the time.
The relay has been rebuilt in the past but it's not right now has anyone got any ideas where I can get hold of one

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Thursday 22nd March 2018
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Repairing mine I could do it but I would need to see an other one as mine has been repaired before and not sure if they put things in the right way round, and that is why they wired the fuel pump to run all the time I will see if I can find more detail about which way the power flows between the metal prongs of the Relay

am I right in thinking that if the air flow meter is not getting 12 volts from this relay it will not give the extra bit of fuel on acceleration because mine never has fired the injectors when you move the flap with the ignition on

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Thursday 22nd March 2018
quotequote all
Thanks I will check again but 12 volts goes in and 7 comes out but the wiring has been messed with I will check tomorrow which wire is connected to what prong and which way to power is flowing

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Thursday 22nd March 2018
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This resistor in the relay reads 27 ohms is should be 2.7 is it me reading it wrong lf you can tell me what value the color bands add to I tried looking it up more mixed up now electrics not my strong point I am going to run it up to a battery on a bench tomorrow see what results I get

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Thursday 22nd March 2018
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Can't see that diagram big enough only on mobile at work when I enlarge it it blurs but I have a diagram of a rover SDI on my mobile from vintage aircraft site and it shows a blue and purple wire from the steering relay to the air flow meter to pin 20 at the ecu plug
it was among one of the first check tests they get you to do will look when I get home later tonight I have had so called experts try to sort this no luck they just blamed the injectors which I have had rebuilt but the guy said not that bad pulling hair out at moment not much left to go

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Friday 23rd March 2018
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Sort of getting there the pecktron one way flow system for a better name when tested off car was giving voltage readings between terminals that had no connection it was so dirty and burnt up inside from a repair it was leaking to the other terminals all cleaned up and now reading as should
The real thing trying to sort out is when you move the air meter flap it should fire the injectors it doesn't it sends power to the pecktron it makes the white green live which has been cut to be sorted later but the white and red wire still remains dead
The flap test am I right in thinking I need to be hearing the injectors fire if not am I missing that extra bit of injection on hard acceleration or is that a myth
Off to work now doubt if I will get much time this weekend to work on it

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Friday 23rd March 2018
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Just read you last bit the crank wire you mean the white and red goes live when turning over only

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Friday 23rd March 2018
quotequote all
I want to put the system back to standard as the fuel pump runs all the time the ignition is on the white and green to the pektron has been cut, the white and green from the fuel pump now joins some non standard thing that through the bulkhead it also takes a white wire from the injection relay the lead it joins looks professional
What the lead goes to is hidden behind a cover on the bulkhead firewall next job to do
Thanks your input has been very helpful and if you have the time I feel I may need more questions answered

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
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Had time to photo the box I need to get into is this a standard thing not seen any other wedges yet been fixing mine for the last year
it's not an easy one to get into rivits and mastic all round could get messy if any ideas please tell I may just cut the wires see what happens

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
quotequote all
Nice to see what a standard pektron looks like good for reference
Had sometime today after all so had a poke around I was wrong about the black box on the firewall just covers a hole I think I can see the fan
Looked around a bit more and found what the wire goes to I think it's a tilt type switch photos posted also photos of the mess of wires the two red ones are the tilt switch wires

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
quotequote all
If my thinking is right if it's put back to standard if the car rolls and engine stalls the fuel pump stops anyway or would the be a way to have it wired and the system work as it should

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
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Is it the way it's wired in that causes the fuel pump to run all the time

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
quotequote all
sorry not sure what a standard heating set up is like not seen any others just joined the tvr club
Had it around 1 1/2 years not one of my better buys had to take the body off, lots replaced to much to own up to this is the last stage to sort out hopefully I want to put some miles on it
It has kept me busy

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
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I will pull the pektron out tomorrow not sure if I will get much more time to do anymore

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Saturday 24th March 2018
quotequote all
I will check the relays
the white wire I think has just been cut into it runs from pektron to the relay above
I know what a relay does but will look-up which number does what I should know have wired some in a long time ago
Also some of the symboles on the electrics diagram not sure if I understand them right

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Sunday 25th March 2018
quotequote all
Had a bit of time on the car I pulled the pektron out with ignition on fuel pump kept running but moved the tilt switch it cut out
I removed the tilt switch and put wiring back to standard I have fuel pressure when cranking over but on run no fuel pressure
I have 12volts at position 2 of the pektron but none at position 5 the diode is still working
But on my test meter on the 200k setting the resistor read 32 ohms would this stop the power what has me mixed up is between 5 and 2. I get 186 ohms and 5 and 3. I get 145 but 5 and 3 works is it a dud resistor

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Sunday 25th March 2018
quotequote all
Yes terminal 2 only comes live with ignition on and flap open I tested it with its top off 12volts at terminal 2 and other side of resistor .5 volts
I tested it for resistance it did not register till meter was put on the 200k band it read 32
I take it is dud
Saw this at maplins is it what I need tru ohm knp - 3005 or27 knp series 5. 0/0 3 w axial wire round or rapidonline just up the road from me but out of stock of the one I think I need but would this be the same code 51-8952

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Sunday 25th March 2018
quotequote all
sorry about no link must find out how to do it bit old school I will bypass the resistor to test it out
The fuse sounds a good idea and easy to replace looked at the pektron if I unsolder one end of it cut resistor off the rest of the wire is long enough to join and make the circuit
Thanks for your help

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Sunday 25th March 2018
quotequote all
Thanks just had a pratice at copying links on my mobile it really is easy should make things easier

burnsdavies

Original Poster:

64 posts

131 months

Monday 26th March 2018
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Thanks all sorted , I by passed the resistor and put a 5 amp fuse in line and all operates as standard thanks again for your help
Now I want to Identify all the relays and fuses before I put it back together should be easy and may save time in the future
I hope to get an mot by May