Chassis Corrosion
Discussion
Large portions of my 93L Chim's chassis needs some TLC - there's no powder coating on the outriggers and there are one or two other patches that need some attention.
I've been under the car, had a good poke around and made a start but I can see my enthusiasm for the job wearing off VERY quickly.
I was wondering if anyone had used a garage fairly local to me (High Wycombe) for this kind of work, and how much did they charge.
I've been under the car, had a good poke around and made a start but I can see my enthusiasm for the job wearing off VERY quickly.
I was wondering if anyone had used a garage fairly local to me (High Wycombe) for this kind of work, and how much did they charge.
My outriggers look as though they need a bit of undersealing aswell, and my Chim's only 4 years old.
The last owner had it Waxoiled about a year ago by the dealers, and when she took it to them about a month ago for a service they said it needed doing again.
I don't know how good the waxoil is, or if it is easily washed off, but when she originally had it done they said it would last 18 months.
In comparison my 10 year old Toyota has no rust underneath at all, and it is still the same as it came from the factory.
>> Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 30th March 18:51
The last owner had it Waxoiled about a year ago by the dealers, and when she took it to them about a month ago for a service they said it needed doing again.
I don't know how good the waxoil is, or if it is easily washed off, but when she originally had it done they said it would last 18 months.
In comparison my 10 year old Toyota has no rust underneath at all, and it is still the same as it came from the factory.
>> Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 30th March 18:51
The powder coating that TVR use to 'protect' the chassis on their cars is pathetic, and on the outriggers where it is subject to impact damage from stones etc it's actually a liability! The slightest hole allows water in and rust starts to creep under the coating - you don't realise there is a problem until it's really taken hold. It's a shame because despite this useless protection the chassis still lasts quite well. I looked into having the new chassis for my Vixen galvanised and it was possible but with a slight chance of twisting due to the 250°C soak, so I didn't get it done, although the cost was only about £250. Funny thing is I know (from where I work) that to make powder coating stick to the base metal properly (and not just form a skin on the top) you need to heat the base metal to 250°C and soak it for about 15minutes - I wonder if TVR do this?
You would really think that on a £40K ish car TVR could go to the expense/trouble of galvanising the chassis - this would definately help the long term resale value of the cars. It would definately make me feel less nervy about buying a 10 year old Griff for £12K!!!
You would really think that on a £40K ish car TVR could go to the expense/trouble of galvanising the chassis - this would definately help the long term resale value of the cars. It would definately make me feel less nervy about buying a 10 year old Griff for £12K!!!
) and then a few coats of rust inhibiting paint....Agreed. This is a godforsaken job. Took me about 3 weeks on and off to re-paint the exposed parts of the chassis, and it was quite bad in places (outriggers bald of powder, large patches missing on main chassis). However, I will concur that the chassis is strong - I tried really hard to puncture it where the rust was bad and could not! Likewise, I cannot understand why the thing is not just totally undersealed at the factory, like most other modern cars.
I know that Dinitrol (www.dinitrol.co.uk) will underseal the car for you, but have no ideas on prices or effectiveness - although they have very good reviews. I may check this out later in the year.
Waxoyl is a reasonable protector and will slow down corrosion (it principally works by putting a thin film on everything that prevents water getting to the metal), making it a good annual option if all else is well, but its not underseal (like on the aforementioned Toyota), and won't stand prolongued spray, or stonechips.
I know that Dinitrol (www.dinitrol.co.uk) will underseal the car for you, but have no ideas on prices or effectiveness - although they have very good reviews. I may check this out later in the year.
Waxoyl is a reasonable protector and will slow down corrosion (it principally works by putting a thin film on everything that prevents water getting to the metal), making it a good annual option if all else is well, but its not underseal (like on the aforementioned Toyota), and won't stand prolongued spray, or stonechips.
I got most the powder coating that was left on my S3 buy using a battery drill with wire brush attachments as well as chisels, small screwdrivers etc.
Then hammerited it 2 or 3 times and then waxoiled it.
It didnt take me that long just a couple of hours her and there(geting the powder coat off)then done the hammeriting on one day followed by waxoiling(kit from halfords) it couple of weeks later.
And was very happy with it once it was done(yes a little boring at times)but every time i jacked the car up to work on it i was very proud of my chassis looking so good(sad i know).
Simon
Then hammerited it 2 or 3 times and then waxoiled it.
It didnt take me that long just a couple of hours her and there(geting the powder coat off)then done the hammeriting on one day followed by waxoiling(kit from halfords) it couple of weeks later.
And was very happy with it once it was done(yes a little boring at times)but every time i jacked the car up to work on it i was very proud of my chassis looking so good(sad i know).
Simon
'about buying a 10 year old Griff for £12K!!!'
Yes, I recently sold one! When I was planning to buy my first TVR, an S3, I too was concerned about the rusty chassis - but a few calls to newly-made colleagues at the TVRCC reassured me that (1) they all do that, (2) it is usually only surface rust and there's plenty of metal underneath. Notwitstanding that, I now have a Griff 500 in much better condition and last Autumn I took it down to my local tyre/exhaust/MOT place - they put it on the ramp, cleaned the year's muck, oil etc off the bottom and waxoyled it for about £40. I plan to do this every year.
Yes, I recently sold one! When I was planning to buy my first TVR, an S3, I too was concerned about the rusty chassis - but a few calls to newly-made colleagues at the TVRCC reassured me that (1) they all do that, (2) it is usually only surface rust and there's plenty of metal underneath. Notwitstanding that, I now have a Griff 500 in much better condition and last Autumn I took it down to my local tyre/exhaust/MOT place - they put it on the ramp, cleaned the year's muck, oil etc off the bottom and waxoyled it for about £40. I plan to do this every year.
Hmm, those often heard words "it's only surface rust", so loved by the reassuring seller!!!
I've stripped a couple of TVR bodies from their chassis to find horrors (big holes) lurking on the chassis where the eye can not see! You can treat the bottom of the outriggers as often as you like but it is very difficult to properly clean/treat the top of them. I don't actually know what a Griff is like but the S in particular has a couple of very nasty little rust traps, the worst in my opinion being on the lower main rails just behind the seat area (a nice little water collecting bracket is strategically placed). Did you see the 10 year old S3 chassis that one of the traders brought to the 2000 Mania meet? It looked like surface rust on the outriggers etc but there were big holes in a couple of places and the chassis was basically shagged and probably dangerous. Trouble is, on the car I bet it looked ok!
Yearly or twice yearly vigilance is the best option, but why the heck don't TVR protect the chassis properly in the first place??????????
I've stripped a couple of TVR bodies from their chassis to find horrors (big holes) lurking on the chassis where the eye can not see! You can treat the bottom of the outriggers as often as you like but it is very difficult to properly clean/treat the top of them. I don't actually know what a Griff is like but the S in particular has a couple of very nasty little rust traps, the worst in my opinion being on the lower main rails just behind the seat area (a nice little water collecting bracket is strategically placed). Did you see the 10 year old S3 chassis that one of the traders brought to the 2000 Mania meet? It looked like surface rust on the outriggers etc but there were big holes in a couple of places and the chassis was basically shagged and probably dangerous. Trouble is, on the car I bet it looked ok!
Yearly or twice yearly vigilance is the best option, but why the heck don't TVR protect the chassis properly in the first place??????????
Very common problem we at V8 at every service rub down all the suspension and repaint with several coats of Hammerrite, also the outriggers get painted and then waxoyled on top this gets down as part of the service every time at no extra cost. It is absolutly essentail to do this as I have already seen two Chim/griff chassis that were holed at the outriggers and suspension arms rotten as well.
to have your TVR serviced properly call me on 01620 844800.
Noel V8
to have your TVR serviced properly call me on 01620 844800.
Noel V8
i recently saw a V8S on a 4 post ramp and could not beleve the state it was in. It had already had welding done to an extremely poor standard and in my opinion was ready for a complete strip down and rebuild. The tank frame had been bodged and the trailing arms were wafer thin.
Have also seen an S3 with one outrigger totally rusted away (with an mot)
Have also seen an S3 with one outrigger totally rusted away (with an mot)
Just had my SEAC's chassis shotblasted (13 years old) and although the powder coat was long gone and there was some surface rust it was solid and had no structural rust. I've actually had it refinished in good old heavy duty paint with internal and external waxoyle so it will be easy to maintain in future. I've always found an annual waxoyle, easy to do if a little messy, to be an effective anti-rust treatment.
quote:
Noel,
Thanks for the offer, but you're the wrong end of the UK for me - unless you can throw in several free tanks of petrol!
Sorry mate struggling can do a holiday though I am putting togaether weekend breaks so you can have the car service whilst you have a good time at a nice hotel. Fancy?
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