Tyres - when do you replace?
Discussion
1.6mm being the legal limit, but I’ve seen advice saying <3mm grip is “substantially” lost.
My Golf 7 (FWD) has 2.2/2.6mm on the fronts and 4mm on the back.
Should I replace now? Is it worth swapping rear to the front (opposite sides) and replacing the rears?
I’ve had the car just over a year, now at 16k miles.
My Golf 7 (FWD) has 2.2/2.6mm on the fronts and 4mm on the back.
Should I replace now? Is it worth swapping rear to the front (opposite sides) and replacing the rears?
I’ve had the car just over a year, now at 16k miles.
markyb_lcy said:
1.6mm being the legal limit, but I’ve seen advice saying <3mm grip is “substantially” lost.
My Golf 7 (FWD) has 2.2/2.6mm on the fronts and 4mm on the back.
Should I replace now? Is it worth swapping rear to the front (opposite sides) and replacing the rears?
I’ve had the car just over a year, now at 16k miles.
1.59mm.My Golf 7 (FWD) has 2.2/2.6mm on the fronts and 4mm on the back.
Should I replace now? Is it worth swapping rear to the front (opposite sides) and replacing the rears?
I’ve had the car just over a year, now at 16k miles.
I can usually tell with my car when the front tyres need replacing. Not because I’m any kind of driving god, but because the driving dynamics change. As much as a FWD TDI can be described as dynamic.
I get wheelspin more when pulling away, front breaks traction more easily when cornering. Generally replace around 2.5-3mm.
Costco have a policy of rear to front and new on rear. Works for me.
I get wheelspin more when pulling away, front breaks traction more easily when cornering. Generally replace around 2.5-3mm.
Costco have a policy of rear to front and new on rear. Works for me.
phil y said:
I can usually tell with my car when the front tyres need replacing. Not because I’m any kind of driving god, but because the driving dynamics change. As much as a FWD TDI can be described as dynamic.
I get wheelspin more when pulling away, front breaks traction more easily when cornering. Generally replace around 2.5-3mm.
Costco have a policy of rear to front and new on rear. Works for me.
To be fair I’ve noticed more wheel-spin when pulling away, of late. I had been putting it down to cold conditions but it could be a combination of that and tires. I say wheel spin, but it’s more of a scrabbling as traction control kicks in and tries to save me from myself!I get wheelspin more when pulling away, front breaks traction more easily when cornering. Generally replace around 2.5-3mm.
Costco have a policy of rear to front and new on rear. Works for me.
I usually replace on a Saturday.
And anyone stating grip is lost at 3mm....well, it's a bulls
t uneducated statement. Because under good dry conditions it probably grips better. It may not deal with standing water as well....but they didnt refer to that in the statement.
But considering it is winter, it's cold and wet....do you think new tyres with deeper tread would be sensible ?
And anyone stating grip is lost at 3mm....well, it's a bulls

But considering it is winter, it's cold and wet....do you think new tyres with deeper tread would be sensible ?
stevieturbo said:
I usually replace on a Saturday.
And anyone stating grip is lost at 3mm....well, it's a bulls
t uneducated statement. Because under good dry conditions it probably grips better. It may not deal with standing water as well....but they didnt refer to that in the statement.
But considering it is winter, it's cold and wet....do you think new tyres with deeper tread would be sensible ?
Sure.And anyone stating grip is lost at 3mm....well, it's a bulls

But considering it is winter, it's cold and wet....do you think new tyres with deeper tread would be sensible ?
Buy and fit new ones every Saturday in winter then?

I was just trying to get a feel for when others do it.
P.s. the 3mm grip claim was actually from the RAC
markyb_lcy said:
phil y said:
I can usually tell with my car when the front tyres need replacing. Not because I’m any kind of driving god, but because the driving dynamics change. As much as a FWD TDI can be described as dynamic.
I get wheelspin more when pulling away, front breaks traction more easily when cornering. Generally replace around 2.5-3mm.
Costco have a policy of rear to front and new on rear. Works for me.
To be fair I’ve noticed more wheel-spin when pulling away, of late. I had been putting it down to cold conditions but it could be a combination of that and tires. I say wheel spin, but it’s more of a scrabbling as traction control kicks in and tries to save me from myself!I get wheelspin more when pulling away, front breaks traction more easily when cornering. Generally replace around 2.5-3mm.
Costco have a policy of rear to front and new on rear. Works for me.
I take mine down to near the legal limit. I buy good tyres and I want to use all that I have paid for.
markyb_lcy said:
P.s. the 3mm grip claim was actually from the RAC
I sat in a shop that sells tyres one day a few years back when I was waiting on some getting fitted.And the sales guy at the counter was spouting to a customer about tyres, and grip etc etc. I honestly felt like getting up and kicking him in the head, because of the utter tripe he was telling the customer, and it was along similar lines, except he was quoting percentages.
It was complete and utter bulls

Now the 3mm claim is perfectly valid with a context. But without a proper context, it is just bulls

And I said "a Saturday"...not "every Saturday"
details matter.
Leaving tyres to the limit for use over winter, is a pretty dumb thing to do though for the aforementioned reasons and weather conditions.
I would normally swap tyres front to rear, but at a couple of mm left, you may create a situation of excessively low relative grip on the back end.
If it were 4mm and 6mm, I'd say do it, but with what you have, do it, but check it's not got any tailhappiness on greasy roundabouts etc.
For your next set, I think you'd be better to do a F/R swap earlier, so the wear is more even.
If it were 4mm and 6mm, I'd say do it, but with what you have, do it, but check it's not got any tailhappiness on greasy roundabouts etc.
For your next set, I think you'd be better to do a F/R swap earlier, so the wear is more even.
It all depends depends on the car, tyres, usage, time of year.
However I also tend to run my car on high quality tyres, looking at the wet grip road noise ratings, and then tend to run them fairly near the limit. Wear bars become flus at 2mm which is a good time to get them changed.
However if it's winter and I'm due a load of motorway miles, I would likely change at more like 3mm or atleast drop my speed according with tyre are road conditions.
If you are struggling to afford to change them, I would favour good quality part worms that you can inspect before fitting above the cheapest budget new tyre.
Daniel
However I also tend to run my car on high quality tyres, looking at the wet grip road noise ratings, and then tend to run them fairly near the limit. Wear bars become flus at 2mm which is a good time to get them changed.
However if it's winter and I'm due a load of motorway miles, I would likely change at more like 3mm or atleast drop my speed according with tyre are road conditions.
If you are struggling to afford to change them, I would favour good quality part worms that you can inspect before fitting above the cheapest budget new tyre.
Daniel
I’ve bought tyres only from Costco for the last 20 years - Michelin.
Policy is new on rear tyres being kept move to front. Reason as proven by Michelin you will suffer understeer which is manageable vs totally unexpected rear oversteer and a spin.
As for when to change the stopping distances increase with lower tread depth / much more notable in wet greasy conditions and it can be meters shorter whereas 7mm new to 3mm the distance in stopping distance is so trivial it makes no difference.
Places claim at 3mm a tyre is 90% worn
If it’s summer running down to legal limit is fine (watch out for any summer downpours) but going into winter with really low tread I’d be changing before hand.
Policy is new on rear tyres being kept move to front. Reason as proven by Michelin you will suffer understeer which is manageable vs totally unexpected rear oversteer and a spin.
As for when to change the stopping distances increase with lower tread depth / much more notable in wet greasy conditions and it can be meters shorter whereas 7mm new to 3mm the distance in stopping distance is so trivial it makes no difference.
Places claim at 3mm a tyre is 90% worn
If it’s summer running down to legal limit is fine (watch out for any summer downpours) but going into winter with really low tread I’d be changing before hand.
Welshbeef said:
Policy is new on rear tyres being kept move to front. Reason as proven by Michelin you will suffer understeer which is manageable vs totally unexpected rear oversteer and a spin.
Can't fault that, especially for a fwd car where otherwise the rears tend to last so long they end up aged and cracked before they wear out. Sadly most tyre places and garages are too last to move the tyres. If you do say 15k a year and tyres last 40k miles (usually mine last above that level.
So 2 and 2/3rds years
On my usage I always plan the purchases of the tyres when the Nov and May Tyre sales are on. Even if that means they are left in my garage and be fitted when I need.
I’d always have the tyres changed on 2mm minimum but that’s only if it’s during summer early autumn. If it’s winter or heading into winter change them.
So 2 and 2/3rds years
On my usage I always plan the purchases of the tyres when the Nov and May Tyre sales are on. Even if that means they are left in my garage and be fitted when I need.
I’d always have the tyres changed on 2mm minimum but that’s only if it’s during summer early autumn. If it’s winter or heading into winter change them.
Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff