How long do brake bleed nipples take to seize?
Discussion
Quick question for mechanics. How long do brake bleed nipples take to seize? I'm thinking of changing the fluid to prevent the nipples from seizing. How many years if driven a 3000 miles a year in Suffolk (not much rain). How many years is the question.
PS. I've changed discs, pads and fluid on a bike, never on a car.
PS. I've changed discs, pads and fluid on a bike, never on a car.
So the only reason you’re thinking of changing the fluid is to make sure the nipples aren’t seized...presumably to make it easier to change again at some point in the future?
It’s an impossible question to answer with so many variables.
If you got told they’d 100% l, definitely be seized, would you be leaving the brake fluid in and not changing it?
It’s an impossible question to answer with so many variables.
If you got told they’d 100% l, definitely be seized, would you be leaving the brake fluid in and not changing it?
saladdays said:
Quick question for mechanics. How long do brake bleed nipples take to seize? I'm thinking of changing the fluid to prevent the nipples from seizing. How many years if driven a 3000 miles a year in Suffolk (not much rain). How many years is the question.
PS. I've changed discs, pads and fluid on a bike, never on a car.
I will confidently predict it will be somewhere between 1 month & 87 years, but can't be any more specific.PS. I've changed discs, pads and fluid on a bike, never on a car.
If that is the reason why you are changing the fluid I will ask where you got that suggestion from?
If your fluid needs changing change it, if you are worried about bleed nipples seizing then grease them when you change the fluid, the rubber caps don't stop anything seizing as they don't cover/protect the threads.
saladdays said:
It's a Skoda Karoq, driven very sensibly. The nipples have rubber caps. Torque is 10Nm
Well if you're already had them apart to know what they are torqued too, surely you would have put anti-sieze compound on the threads when it was apart so there is little to worry aboutI thought the reason for regular brake fluid changes is that brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time. The water in the brake fluid can start to cause corrosion in the caliper & on the piston (not make the bleed nipples seize though), and when brakes get hot the water can boil, leading to a spongy pedal and reduced braking.
like the OP I've done brakes loads of times on bikes but not on cars, planning to change the fluid in the cars soon, especially as one will need new rear pads soon.
edit: I'm hoping I remember to give the bleed nipples regular squirts of GT85 or similar for a week or so before I try to loosen them.
like the OP I've done brakes loads of times on bikes but not on cars, planning to change the fluid in the cars soon, especially as one will need new rear pads soon.
edit: I'm hoping I remember to give the bleed nipples regular squirts of GT85 or similar for a week or so before I try to loosen them.
underwhelmist said:
I thought the reason for regular brake fluid changes is that brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time. The water in the brake fluid can start to cause corrosion in the caliper & on the piston (not make the bleed nipples seize though), and when brakes get hot the water can boil, leading to a spongy pedal and reduced braking.
like the OP I've done brakes loads of times on bikes but not on cars, planning to change the fluid in the cars soon, especially as one will need new rear pads soon.
edit: I'm hoping I remember to give the bleed nipples regular squirts of GT85 or similar for a week or so before I try to loosen them.
Yes, it has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with whether the nipples seize....although it is one of the most humours reasons I've ever heard for changing brake fluid.like the OP I've done brakes loads of times on bikes but not on cars, planning to change the fluid in the cars soon, especially as one will need new rear pads soon.
edit: I'm hoping I remember to give the bleed nipples regular squirts of GT85 or similar for a week or so before I try to loosen them.
Like really...if you don't want them to seize...open them, remove them, grease and refit. It's not rocket science.
Before you do undo, a little penetrating fluid may help, but also a good dunt directly down onto it with a hammer cam help loosen them a little too before actually trying a spanner.
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