Brake calipers
Discussion
Up to a point. If it's just a bit stuck from disuse it can often be freed-up with little more than a g-clamp.
If you can't just get one from a parts factor or a breaker, http://biggred.co.uk/
If you can't just get one from a parts factor or a breaker, http://biggred.co.uk/
Riley26 said:
Can you still get brake calipers for Suzuki swift GLS 1 litre?
Yes. Although currently out of stock here there will be other places that can do them or you could just rebuild them. https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Suzuki/Swift/95-04/S...
Riley26 said:
Thanks what would be the symptoms of a stuck caliper?
If you drive a car with stuck calipers round a short distance like round the block then (carefully) feel the wheels and compare them you'll find the stuck one is hotter. Depending on which wheel you may notice a pull to one side, slower, harder to pull away as well as the smell of burning pads/hot disc and aforementioned hot wheel.
Disc may be noticeably discoloured after overheating.
Get it fixed as soon as you can. I’ve had broken callipers that were replaced on their own. Then I’ve recently had callipers stuck on that Mrs drove for 60 miles..... ruined the pads and discs, car Felt slow and there was a burning smell and two glowing orange discs pulled up outside like a Le Mans car after 24 hours.... no s
t.
They’re not that expensive. Go to euro parts and put in your reg number. That’ll give you a rough idea for the part, then mark up and Labour to give you a good idea
t. They’re not that expensive. Go to euro parts and put in your reg number. That’ll give you a rough idea for the part, then mark up and Labour to give you a good idea
Edited by oldaudi on Saturday 26th June 10:18
Lack of brake servicing is one of my pet hates, its rife throughout the whole industry including quite new cars where during a so called service the brakes get looked at and if lucky some brake cleaner sprayed in their general direction.
Wheels should be removed and pads and drums removed at least every other year, preferably annually, inspect and clean, exercise caliper pistons in their bores, make sure any sliders or sliding pins are clean free moving and lubed, every two or three years change the brake fluid, do this and in many cases calipers will last the life of the car or around 15 years minimum if the car is of a quality to lead a long life.
Most cars without electric parking brakes all this is easy enough for a competent home mechanic, for others it's probably best to find an old school indy mechanic more interested in good servicing than upselling new friction materials....note some cars like noughties Mercs with SBC take suitable advice and precautions because the system must be shut down before you start dismantling.
As for checking for dragging brakes, yes a good thing to do, when on a longish trip choose a motorway service area or uphill layby on a quiet dual carriageway that its possible to safely slow up via gears and engine braking and pull into without using the brakes at all, save maybe coming to a final rest from very slow speed...obviously you don't do this on a busy section.
Then walk around the car feeling the brakes for excess heat, also handy for checking for overheating hubs from a failing bearing, a laser thermometer makes it less likely to lose your fingerprints than touching a really hot disc if you have a sticking caliper.
Wheels should be removed and pads and drums removed at least every other year, preferably annually, inspect and clean, exercise caliper pistons in their bores, make sure any sliders or sliding pins are clean free moving and lubed, every two or three years change the brake fluid, do this and in many cases calipers will last the life of the car or around 15 years minimum if the car is of a quality to lead a long life.
Most cars without electric parking brakes all this is easy enough for a competent home mechanic, for others it's probably best to find an old school indy mechanic more interested in good servicing than upselling new friction materials....note some cars like noughties Mercs with SBC take suitable advice and precautions because the system must be shut down before you start dismantling.
As for checking for dragging brakes, yes a good thing to do, when on a longish trip choose a motorway service area or uphill layby on a quiet dual carriageway that its possible to safely slow up via gears and engine braking and pull into without using the brakes at all, save maybe coming to a final rest from very slow speed...obviously you don't do this on a busy section.
Then walk around the car feeling the brakes for excess heat, also handy for checking for overheating hubs from a failing bearing, a laser thermometer makes it less likely to lose your fingerprints than touching a really hot disc if you have a sticking caliper.
My Wife’s ancient Merc has had many seized calipers over the years so have a lot of experience of the symptoms. Seems to be prone to them, don’t get much more than the life of a set or 2 of pads to a caliper.
Early warning signs are usually brake squeaking or squeal when the brakes are not applied that the goes away when you apply the brakes.
One pad in a pair wearing more than the other.
The affected wheel will have resistance to turning if you jack the car up and try to spin it.
The disc may get discoloured due to the heat, but that only happens when the issue has got very bad in my experience.
When replacing the pads look under the dust boot at the caliper piston. The piston should go back easily and smoothly with an appropriate rewind tool. If there is any corrosion showing on the sides of the piston don’t bother continuing with it. If it isn’t currently seized, it will once you push the piston back, drag the corrosion back down the bore and drive it for while, then you’ll be doing the job again.
Early warning signs are usually brake squeaking or squeal when the brakes are not applied that the goes away when you apply the brakes.
One pad in a pair wearing more than the other.
The affected wheel will have resistance to turning if you jack the car up and try to spin it.
The disc may get discoloured due to the heat, but that only happens when the issue has got very bad in my experience.
When replacing the pads look under the dust boot at the caliper piston. The piston should go back easily and smoothly with an appropriate rewind tool. If there is any corrosion showing on the sides of the piston don’t bother continuing with it. If it isn’t currently seized, it will once you push the piston back, drag the corrosion back down the bore and drive it for while, then you’ll be doing the job again.
Fastdruid said:
If you drive a car with stuck calipers round a short distance like round the block then (carefully) feel the wheels and compare them you'll find the stuck one is hotter.
Depending on which wheel you may notice a pull to one side, slower, harder to pull away as well as the smell of burning pads/hot disc and aforementioned hot wheel.
Disc may be noticeably discoloured after overheating.
Yes I can feel heat off it and a smell of burning
Depending on which wheel you may notice a pull to one side, slower, harder to pull away as well as the smell of burning pads/hot disc and aforementioned hot wheel.
Disc may be noticeably discoloured after overheating.
Yes I can feel heat off it and a smell of burning
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