Any point bedding in OEM discs / pads?

[Nigel Foster]

Mazda 3 just had a new set of (genuine mazda) discs and pads on the front.

Never had new discs in 30+ years driving.

Is there any need to do a bedding in procedure or is that just for sports brakes?

I read somewhere street brakes need curing instead, so just drive gently for a couple hundred miles?

[PTF]

OEM brakes should require nothing more than regular driving to bed them in. I tend to do a few fairly hard stops in the first few miles, then just drive normally.

Race pads sometimes require careful bedding in with heat cycles, but OEM pads are designed to operate at a much cooler temperature range.

[OutInTheShed]

Pads need to 'bed in' that is wear to fit the ridges and grooves on the disc, otherwise they will be doing all the braking on a small areas which will over heat and glaze.

Much less so if the discs are also new.

But i would still make an effort not to brake heavily to start with.
A few quick applications to bed them in, not going naughty fast down long hills, then anchoring.

[Nigel Foster]

Good to know very helpful, thanks guys

[sly fox]

PTF said:

OEM brakes should require nothing more than regular driving to bed them in. I tend to do a few fairly hard stops in the first few miles, then just drive normally.

Race pads sometimes require careful bedding in with heat cycles, but OEM pads are designed to operate at a much cooler temperature range.

Hard stops yes, but never come to a complete halt to avoid pad deposits transferring to disk at this crucial time if you have new disks. ( so 50-20mph a few times, then 60-20mph etc) . Watched a great video years ago where (i think it was Mintex brakes) an expert stated that most 'warped disks' diagnoses were actually down to pad deposits and never heat stressed disks actually distorting. Pad breaking in could be done in a few hours of being fitted using the above method.

[Evercross]

sly fox said:

Watched a great video years ago where (i think it was Mintex brakes) an expert stated that most 'warped disks' diagnoses were actually down to pad deposits and never heat stressed disks actually distorting.

A symptom of the move away from asbestos-based linings. Notwithstanding the health risks, there was no denying the inherent stability of asbestos at extremes of temperature.

[Nigel Foster]

sly fox said:

Hard stops yes, but never come to a complete halt to avoid pad deposits transferring to disk at this crucial time if you have new disks. ( so 50-20mph a few times, then 60-20mph etc) . Watched a great video years ago where (i think it was Mintex brakes) an expert stated that most 'warped disks' diagnoses were actually down to pad deposits and never heat stressed disks actually distorting. Pad breaking in could be done in a few hours of being fitted using the above method.

Now I'm confused again.

Some people are saying it's a bad idea to do the 'brake in' procedure on OEM organic brakes.

Some people say it is a bad idea not to do it and make sure you do it soon after fitting.

I didn't get any instructions.

[Krikkit]

Just treat them as normal, don't bother bedding them in.

As noted it's sometimes worth doing on pads fitted to used discs, but usually you'll find they bed in within a few stops anyway.

[georgeyboy12345]

On a normal road car, no. Pointless

If anything, it can cause damage, glazing, etc

[thatdude]

Just drive. They are designed to work at a wide range of temperatures. They might feel a bit crap initially, but they'll soon get bite and feel. last time I did pads and discs I just drove a bit more arefully until brake feel and power came back and everyhting was fine.

Dont over think it - these are modern materials that are designed to work from the get-go.

[SuperPav]

I work for an OEM. Just drive as you would normally. That's it.

If you're going to be tracking it or driving down the Grossglockner immediately, the answer is a bit different, but otherwise as above.

[OutInTheShed]

thatdude said:

Just drive. They are designed to work at a wide range of temperatures. They might feel a bit crap initially, but they'll soon get bite and feel. last time I did pads and discs I just drove a bit more arefully until brake feel and power came back and everyhting was fine.

Dont over think it - these are modern materials that are designed to work from the get-go.

When I've had new discs, the brakes have felt great almost immediately.
I'd want to know why if they didn't.

[Nigel Foster]

Ok thanks people.

I'll just drive normally then and avoid braking hard (to a stop) where possible for a bit.

[I wish dealers would provide instructions for things like this!]