New paint protection?

[tuscan_al]

Having the Tuscan resprayed. Want to protect the paint when its done. What would people reccomend to seal protect the paint with?

[jayplay28]

this time of year I would look at using a sealant as its alot more durable than a wax and would highly reccomend zaino
www.zainoeurope.com

Edited by jayplay28 on Sunday 16th November 17:49

[belleair302]

The question is....do you want something permanent ie a film (3M ventureshield)to protect the nose, lower body panels etc, or do you want something like a full body applied sealant, ie G techniq, or a decent home applied product like Chemical Guys Jetseal #109 plus layers of wax, ie Collinite?

[tuscan_al]

Well the last respray didnt hold up too well to the track and enthusiastic driving, but that was a combination of a poor spray job and the shape of the tuscan catching so many stones.

THe venture/paintshield option, is good but expensive and I dont want to see the join lines. Also the cost of that can almost be as much as a new front respray next time it needs it, and there is no way of saying for sure it will protect everything.

[belleair302]

3M Ventureshield is an amazing product and I would seriously look more closely at how much quality has moved on in two years regarding film.

If you are looking at doing something yourself, then CarLack, Poorboys, Zaino, Chemical Guys and the usual sealant suppliers will offer some limited protection. The big wax suppliers like Dodo Juice, Svisswax, Zymol, Collinite, Victoria Wax, Meguiars, etc will do an OK job regarding shine, but will not protect against stone chips etc.

[PJ S]

Before you decide whether you want to run with a wax, a sealant, combo of both (wax over the sealant), or even the likes of the plastic film "shields", you will need to leave the paint at least 30 days, probably 60 to be surer, so that the curing process has fully taken place - and that's based on the premise that the paint is oven baked/IR cured.
If not, then you could be looking at closer to 6 months before it has cured fully!
Putting any wax/sealant/film over the new paint will result in extending the process, as the off gassing can't penetrate the layer(s) of the product used.

[Anatol]

What he said. Too many refinishers don't emphasise this enough to their customers - the paint needs curing time. Worst case scenario if a layer of protection is put on top too early, the crosslinking continues and permanently locks in ungassed-off solvent, leaving the new paintwork soft *forever* - the only way to fix it being strip the whole lot off and start again...

Tol

[tuscan_al]

Anatol said:

What he said. Too many refinishers don't emphasise this enough to their customers - the paint needs curing time. Worst case scenario if a layer of protection is put on top too early, the crosslinking continues and permanently locks in ungassed-off solvent, leaving the new paintwork soft *forever* - the only way to fix it being strip the whole lot off and start again...

Tol

I think this was the downfall last time, only left it 2 weeks or so before wax, and then the paint was not IR baked either...

[PJ S]

tuscan_al said:

Anatol said:

What he said. Too many refinishers don't emphasise this enough to their customers - the paint needs curing time. Worst case scenario if a layer of protection is put on top too early, the crosslinking continues and permanently locks in ungassed-off solvent, leaving the new paintwork soft *forever* - the only way to fix it being strip the whole lot off and start again...

Tol

I think this was the downfall last time, only left it 2 weeks or so before wax, and then the paint was not IR baked either...

Ooopsie!