One for KDS...
Discussion
Kelly,
Need to pick your brains. A friend has a D plate TVR 350 wedge. The car is metallic silver and the front end is covered in hazing and swirls with what looks like to be brmable rash over the nose, along the wings and bonnet....but.....the doors, rear wings and boot area are perfectly clear.....
My thoughts are maybe the previous owner used a jetwash and has knackered the front end.
Worked on it today with the PC and didnt want to use much more than Menzerna Final Finish.....this removed the hazing but not the swirls. Now, I know TVR spray their fibreglass as well as the gelcoat, so now there is some room for correcting.
Not wanting to build up too much heat, I kept the PC on a low setting and stepped up to Menzerna IP....this helped but still had no effect on the swirls...........on chekcing it was ok to try, I stepped to Menzerna Power Gloss....worked it in on setting number 1 and then moved to setting 2 as per Menzerna instructions...........
Still not shifting although more clarity is seen in the reflections, there are still swirls and RDS..
Have you worked on an old TVR and if so what were your findings on clearcoat/paint depths..
I have been very cautious about all the stages I have done, being careful not to heat the area up too much but I am stumped with this one.. I am thinking they're in the gelcoat now....
Don't wanna go wet sanding yet though...;)
Kev
Need to pick your brains. A friend has a D plate TVR 350 wedge. The car is metallic silver and the front end is covered in hazing and swirls with what looks like to be brmable rash over the nose, along the wings and bonnet....but.....the doors, rear wings and boot area are perfectly clear.....
My thoughts are maybe the previous owner used a jetwash and has knackered the front end.
Worked on it today with the PC and didnt want to use much more than Menzerna Final Finish.....this removed the hazing but not the swirls. Now, I know TVR spray their fibreglass as well as the gelcoat, so now there is some room for correcting.
Not wanting to build up too much heat, I kept the PC on a low setting and stepped up to Menzerna IP....this helped but still had no effect on the swirls...........on chekcing it was ok to try, I stepped to Menzerna Power Gloss....worked it in on setting number 1 and then moved to setting 2 as per Menzerna instructions...........
Still not shifting although more clarity is seen in the reflections, there are still swirls and RDS..
Have you worked on an old TVR and if so what were your findings on clearcoat/paint depths..
I have been very cautious about all the stages I have done, being careful not to heat the area up too much but I am stumped with this one.. I am thinking they're in the gelcoat now....
Don't wanna go wet sanding yet though...;)
Kev
I know you posted for Kelly but this is my take on it if I may.
Menz power gloss needs to be worked at high speeds to get it to break down. It's something more suited to the rotary (I do however use it when i need to on my da) Because of the temps generated and the risks of associated and highlighted when working with paint finishes on plastics and fibreglass, I'd be using menz intensive polish instead tops.
Which cut method are you using fast or slow? On fibre glass I prefer to use the slow cut method. Where by I start on speed 1 to spread the product out. Stepping up to speed 2 and moving along at about 1/2" per second. Once the product has broken down I step up to speed 3 for a pass or 2. Then go back down the speeds. All the time checking progress and taking readings.
Also another thing to consider is your pad choice. what are you currently using? A 3m polishing pad with menz ip should be more than enough to give you plenty of cut to clear up 90% of swirl marks and rids providing you have enough paint to play with of course. Then run back over with your final finish and finishing pad to remove any micro maring from the menz ip and to boost gloss.
Cheers,
Matt.
Menz power gloss needs to be worked at high speeds to get it to break down. It's something more suited to the rotary (I do however use it when i need to on my da) Because of the temps generated and the risks of associated and highlighted when working with paint finishes on plastics and fibreglass, I'd be using menz intensive polish instead tops.
Which cut method are you using fast or slow? On fibre glass I prefer to use the slow cut method. Where by I start on speed 1 to spread the product out. Stepping up to speed 2 and moving along at about 1/2" per second. Once the product has broken down I step up to speed 3 for a pass or 2. Then go back down the speeds. All the time checking progress and taking readings.
Also another thing to consider is your pad choice. what are you currently using? A 3m polishing pad with menz ip should be more than enough to give you plenty of cut to clear up 90% of swirl marks and rids providing you have enough paint to play with of course. Then run back over with your final finish and finishing pad to remove any micro maring from the menz ip and to boost gloss.
Cheers,
Matt.
mneame said:
Which cut method are you using fast or slow? On fibre glass I prefer to use the slow cut method. Where by I start on speed 1 to spread the product out. Stepping up to speed 2 and moving along at about 1/2" per second. Once the product has broken down I step up to speed 3 for a pass or 2. Then go back down the speeds. All the time checking progress and taking readings.
Also another thing to consider is your pad choice. what are you currently using? A 3m polishing pad with menz ip should be more than enough to give you plenty of cut to clear up 90% of swirl marks and rids providing you have enough paint to play with of course. Then run back over with your final finish and finishing pad to remove any micro maring from the menz ip and to boost gloss.
Cheers,
Matt.
Matt,Also another thing to consider is your pad choice. what are you currently using? A 3m polishing pad with menz ip should be more than enough to give you plenty of cut to clear up 90% of swirl marks and rids providing you have enough paint to play with of course. Then run back over with your final finish and finishing pad to remove any micro maring from the menz ip and to boost gloss.
Cheers,
Matt.
LOL..the more the merrier mate..
Yeah, the process I used with IP was similar to yours. Never built up much speed and worked up and down between speed 2 and 3 on the PC... only changed to Power Gloss when I didnt get the finish I was hoping for with IP (was resisting using it due to the heat needed).Worked it in on 1 then went up to 4 to try and break it down whilst keepig an eye on how warm the panel was becoming.
I started with Sonus SFX 2 polishing pads so that I didnt get too aggressive but then switched to a DAS Scratchbuster pad eventually to see if I could get some kind of correction. This along with IP seemed to do the most good but took ages and stil didnt get the desired results.
Went over the whole lot again with FF on a Sonus polishing pad....
Kev
Edited by KevF on Saturday 16th May 13:31
jayplay28 said:
has the car in question been repainted at anytime....
take any paint readings?
(edit- just seen you were asking KDS for his findings on paint depth so take it no measurements taken)
Its not my car and the owner isnt aware of any since its been in their care (3 years) so unsure if there has been any paintwork done.take any paint readings?
(edit- just seen you were asking KDS for his findings on paint depth so take it no measurements taken)
Depth readings were not taken as I only have a metal paint gauge.......am looking to find someone who will lend one to me to double check though...
KevF said:
Kelly,
Need to pick your brains. A friend has a D plate TVR 350 wedge. The car is metallic silver and the front end is covered in hazing and swirls with what looks like to be brmable rash over the nose, along the wings and bonnet....but.....the doors, rear wings and boot area are perfectly clear.....
My thoughts are maybe the previous owner used a jetwash and has knackered the front end.
Worked on it today with the PC and didnt want to use much more than Menzerna Final Finish.....this removed the hazing but not the swirls. Now, I know TVR spray their fibreglass as well as the gelcoat, so now there is some room for correcting.
Not wanting to build up too much heat, I kept the PC on a low setting and stepped up to Menzerna IP....this helped but still had no effect on the swirls...........on chekcing it was ok to try, I stepped to Menzerna Power Gloss....worked it in on setting number 1 and then moved to setting 2 as per Menzerna instructions...........
Still not shifting although more clarity is seen in the reflections, there are still swirls and RDS..
Have you worked on an old TVR and if so what were your findings on clearcoat/paint depths..
I have been very cautious about all the stages I have done, being careful not to heat the area up too much but I am stumped with this one.. I am thinking they're in the gelcoat now....
Don't wanna go wet sanding yet though...;)
Kev
Sorry Kev , i have been mental busy and only just going back through all the posts i have missed Need to pick your brains. A friend has a D plate TVR 350 wedge. The car is metallic silver and the front end is covered in hazing and swirls with what looks like to be brmable rash over the nose, along the wings and bonnet....but.....the doors, rear wings and boot area are perfectly clear.....
My thoughts are maybe the previous owner used a jetwash and has knackered the front end.
Worked on it today with the PC and didnt want to use much more than Menzerna Final Finish.....this removed the hazing but not the swirls. Now, I know TVR spray their fibreglass as well as the gelcoat, so now there is some room for correcting.
Not wanting to build up too much heat, I kept the PC on a low setting and stepped up to Menzerna IP....this helped but still had no effect on the swirls...........on chekcing it was ok to try, I stepped to Menzerna Power Gloss....worked it in on setting number 1 and then moved to setting 2 as per Menzerna instructions...........
Still not shifting although more clarity is seen in the reflections, there are still swirls and RDS..
Have you worked on an old TVR and if so what were your findings on clearcoat/paint depths..
I have been very cautious about all the stages I have done, being careful not to heat the area up too much but I am stumped with this one.. I am thinking they're in the gelcoat now....
Don't wanna go wet sanding yet though...;)
Kev
Did you get the TVR sorted in the end ???
KevF said:
Kelly,
No mate. went through the process mentioned but havent gone any further. The client says the finish is much better (read shinier) but the issues are still there....
Kev
Hi Kev ,No mate. went through the process mentioned but havent gone any further. The client says the finish is much better (read shinier) but the issues are still there....
Kev
The problem that it sound like you have would need to be seen in the metal well fibreglass really and take some paint depth reading which would be a must .
Going by how old the car is i would guess its been painted at sometime , with what you said about its just on the front of the car and being silver then sounds like front end blend that so common in the trade to remove stonechips from bumper , bonnet and wings .
The biggest problem with Tvr's are the underbonnet temps which will age harden paint over time quicker on the bonnet and wing surface aswell as the bonnet will expand and contract more so than a mass produced car made from steel and alloy , have a look how thin the Tvr bonnet is . As the paint gets older like our skin it loses its flexabilty and will crack and fail at some time if its subjected to extreme conditions with protection , or due to too much material (paint) on the panel which will not flex . ( too much paint can also be a bad thing ).
So it may be the paint has failed which used to happen on early metallic cars mainly (20-30 years ago cars) i canjust remember old silver ford's doing this .
The other take on this is that its just hard paint and the machining process used (pc) just will not give you enough bite to remove the damage fully .
I use a rotory on plastic and fibreglass which no problems what so ever its just keep the speeds down , it is also handy to buy a infrared thermometer and use it while machine correcting , that way you will be able see the real temp of the panel not guess .
A black car sitting in the sun all day can reach over 80deg panel temp and you will find that machine correcting even using rotory will not get close to that temp with the correct procedure .
If you have some pics post them would be great
Kelly
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