Adjusting derailleurs - frustrations
Discussion
I have been doing the majority of my riding this year towing a trailer with my (now) 3yo daughter on board, so I've remained in the lowest 3 gears (you have to go slowly or she gets rattled around).
Recently I have had opportunity to go out without the trailer and as I built up speed, requiring some of the smaller sprockets, I noticed my gear-indexing was out in the middle of the rear cassette. Changing up from my lowest gear (largest sprocket) to a high gear (smaller sprocket) led it to skip one of the ratios in the middle of the pack but I can't get the adjustment right. If I get the middle set right, it either "grinds" on the smallest sprocket (largest chainwheel selected at this point) or wants to change down (to a larger sprocket).
Bit frustrating all in all. Any recommendations apart from "LBS"? If I can't get it right during the next ride, I'll end up at the LBS but it shouldn't be difficult, should it?
Recently I have had opportunity to go out without the trailer and as I built up speed, requiring some of the smaller sprockets, I noticed my gear-indexing was out in the middle of the rear cassette. Changing up from my lowest gear (largest sprocket) to a high gear (smaller sprocket) led it to skip one of the ratios in the middle of the pack but I can't get the adjustment right. If I get the middle set right, it either "grinds" on the smallest sprocket (largest chainwheel selected at this point) or wants to change down (to a larger sprocket).
Bit frustrating all in all. Any recommendations apart from "LBS"? If I can't get it right during the next ride, I'll end up at the LBS but it shouldn't be difficult, should it?
As well as the above, make sure that the cable isn't slack when on the smallest sprocket. It should be just tight so that the first click moves the derailleur and doesn't just take up any slack.
When replacing the cable remember to set the barrel adjusters (if you have them) somewhere mid-range so you have adjustability in both directions.
One thing I love about my old-skool MTB is the Deore thumbshifters on which you can turn the indexing off which I've found very useful on long muddy rides when everything gets covered in crud and stops working perfectly.
When replacing the cable remember to set the barrel adjusters (if you have them) somewhere mid-range so you have adjustability in both directions.
One thing I love about my old-skool MTB is the Deore thumbshifters on which you can turn the indexing off which I've found very useful on long muddy rides when everything gets covered in crud and stops working perfectly.
Thanks guys. The bike is less than a year old. I wasn't in a position to return the bike for a 30-day service after buying it but I hadn't experienced any issues until much later anyway.
The limits are set right - it reaches the largest and smallest sprockets without wanting to "go over", and when I have it set right, those extremes work fine - it's just the middle ones that don't then.
It's as though the indexing is wrong however I am willing to try a new cable. I realise that the indexing only works if all other components work within their manufactured tolerances. If that doesn't work I'll chuck it at the LBS.
Thanks again.
The limits are set right - it reaches the largest and smallest sprockets without wanting to "go over", and when I have it set right, those extremes work fine - it's just the middle ones that don't then.
It's as though the indexing is wrong however I am willing to try a new cable. I realise that the indexing only works if all other components work within their manufactured tolerances. If that doesn't work I'll chuck it at the LBS.
Thanks again.
dome said:
If a cable doesn't cure it I'd check the alignment of the hanger next, this can cause shifting problems. Your local bike shop will have the tool to do this.
Thanks. My LBS has been very good when I bought the bike and subsequently had problems with it (they sorted it quickly and without quibble). I know they (LBSs in general) sometimes come in for some stick for their aloofness but mine are very keen to help, and I don't feel as though I'm talked-down to. If the cable-replacement doesn't fix it, I'll have no problems chucking at them. Might as well get them to give it a once-over while it's there too. I class myself as *very* competent mechanically (built a Caterham - assembled it's engine - always been involved with bikes) but this isn't a case of knowing how to assemble something - it requires the appreciation of tolerances I confess I may not have.Back to this... after changing my cable I set about trying to set it up but experienced the self-same problem. I could get it to drop into the outermost sprockets but it would skip over the middle ones. In the end I decided to take it to my (new) LBS (Cult Cycles, Earlswood - fabulous) and the chap there sorted it inside 5 mins (I'd been messing with it for a couple of hours), and only for a tenner. Now it clicks through the gears like a rifle bolt. Lovely..!!
Yeah... I tried. I know all the theory. I know what screw affects what. I have a competent mechanical mind - I've always maintained my bikes and have built/rebuilt Caterhams. But this just defeated me. The speed with which the guy at Cult Cycles did it showed there's no substitute for experience. Best tenner spent ever.
Mars said:
I agree totally. I haven't got one yet but I have plenty of hangers in my garage I use for storage. I was able to work off one of those - although it wasn't ideal. Birthday coming up - bike workstand is on the list.
check out the thread about lidl workstands, cant go wrong for £29.99. just got one myself and looks like a good bit of kit for the money.For the future the easy way of indexing gears:
Put the bike in the smallest sprocket at the back and middle at the front.
Put shifter in corresponding gear.
Loosen cable at mech pull through till tightish and retighten the bolt.
Start pedalling and shift up 1 gear.
If it doesn't change up wind the barrel adjuster on the mech out. (tension the cable)
If it changes up more than one cog wind the adjuster in. (removes tension)
Go back to little sprocket and repeat.
Once you have set this one the rest should in theory be set properly, although they may need a little tweek.
Put the bike in the smallest sprocket at the back and middle at the front.
Put shifter in corresponding gear.
Loosen cable at mech pull through till tightish and retighten the bolt.
Start pedalling and shift up 1 gear.
If it doesn't change up wind the barrel adjuster on the mech out. (tension the cable)
If it changes up more than one cog wind the adjuster in. (removes tension)
Go back to little sprocket and repeat.
Once you have set this one the rest should in theory be set properly, although they may need a little tweek.
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