Atco mower electrical problem
Discussion
Here’s a long shot…
I have an Atco GT30 H ride-on mower. The starter motor is turning over very slowly but if I short the solenoid it starts no problem. I’ve tested the switching (ignition) voltage on the control terminals on the solenoid and I am getting only about 6 volts between the +ve and a direct to battery -ve.
The problem is that I can’t find a wiring diagram. The solenoid has 4 terminals: the ‘in’ and ‘out’ for the starter motor +ve feed and then the two control wires, which are purple and black. The c. 6 volt measurement when I try to start it is between purple and black control wires or between purple and battery -ve (I’ve tested both). I should have tested continuity between black and the battery -ve but it’s out in the shed and I’m too lazy to go back until the morning.
I have ruled out flat battery, poor starter motor connections etc as shorting the terminals with a spanner starts the engine. Resting battery voltage is 12.35 volts.
That means it’s likely to be (1) a fault in the ignition (key) switch or (2) a dodgy mower ECU. The ECU does appear to have one burnt pin but it’s on the main safety circuit and I’ve cleaned it and tested continuity. A replacement ECU is about £100 so it’s not a crazy idea to change it anyway due to the burnt pin.
My next step when it’s light is to check the condition of the ignition switch and also confirm that the black control wire on the solenoid is a permanent -ve.
If you haven’t nodded off after my blurb, does that sound sensible? Anyone experienced similar on an Atco or Mountfield?
I have an Atco GT30 H ride-on mower. The starter motor is turning over very slowly but if I short the solenoid it starts no problem. I’ve tested the switching (ignition) voltage on the control terminals on the solenoid and I am getting only about 6 volts between the +ve and a direct to battery -ve.
The problem is that I can’t find a wiring diagram. The solenoid has 4 terminals: the ‘in’ and ‘out’ for the starter motor +ve feed and then the two control wires, which are purple and black. The c. 6 volt measurement when I try to start it is between purple and black control wires or between purple and battery -ve (I’ve tested both). I should have tested continuity between black and the battery -ve but it’s out in the shed and I’m too lazy to go back until the morning.
I have ruled out flat battery, poor starter motor connections etc as shorting the terminals with a spanner starts the engine. Resting battery voltage is 12.35 volts.
That means it’s likely to be (1) a fault in the ignition (key) switch or (2) a dodgy mower ECU. The ECU does appear to have one burnt pin but it’s on the main safety circuit and I’ve cleaned it and tested continuity. A replacement ECU is about £100 so it’s not a crazy idea to change it anyway due to the burnt pin.
My next step when it’s light is to check the condition of the ignition switch and also confirm that the black control wire on the solenoid is a permanent -ve.
If you haven’t nodded off after my blurb, does that sound sensible? Anyone experienced similar on an Atco or Mountfield?
You've nearly narrowed the problem down far enough but I wouldn't be changing parts yet. The next step for me would be to test voltage at various points in the starter circuit whilst cranking. You can ignore the negative side of the circuit as you know that is fine (as it starts when you short the starter terminals).
Richard-D said:
You've nearly narrowed the problem down far enough but I wouldn't be changing parts yet. The next step for me would be to test voltage at various points in the starter circuit whilst cranking. You can ignore the negative side of the circuit as you know that is fine (as it starts when you short the starter terminals).
I agree - but the wiring is pretty inaccessible as it is ultimately a cheap semi-disposable machine! finlo said:
I would suspect grotty solenoid contacts as they either close or don't and bypassing them works.
I didn't mention that I've already changed the solenoid as it was going to add yet more info to a rambling post. It's the 6 volts at the control terminals that makes me think that the fault lies elsewhere.I've bought a new ignition switch as one of the terminals is quite badly corroded and I find testing resistance under load quite tricky. For £17 I thought it was worth the gamble. It arrives Monday...
I know this is a very niche topic but I've bodged the problem. After replacing the ignition barrel (no change) and the solenoid again (no change) I managed to melt the solenoid as the coil was bouncing in and out of contact, presumably causing internal arcing. All the wiring looked good, with no poor joins and all pins clean barring the ECU connector.
I therefore reckon that the ECU is faulty but I couldn't be bothered chasing down the problem and instead fitted a manual 12v 50A push button contact. I now have a mildly PH 'Engine Start' button and the Atco seems to be at peace with itself.
I therefore reckon that the ECU is faulty but I couldn't be bothered chasing down the problem and instead fitted a manual 12v 50A push button contact. I now have a mildly PH 'Engine Start' button and the Atco seems to be at peace with itself.
Hello
I have the Atco gt130m. I can not seem to get it started by the key. It all seems to work, I put a meter on all the safety switches I can find, checked the ignition is working and replaced the solenoid. I have a new electric clutch switch arriving today. But I have an empty socket on the side of the dash where the bonnet comes down, just below the clutch engage button, it has an arrow pointing to it ( I can't seem to upload any pics yet??).
Any idea what this is for, am I missing a safety switch? Its got 12v to it and if I short it a fuse blows.
Failing finding the issue I may well end up with a button start!
Any help gratefully received.
Jon
I have the Atco gt130m. I can not seem to get it started by the key. It all seems to work, I put a meter on all the safety switches I can find, checked the ignition is working and replaced the solenoid. I have a new electric clutch switch arriving today. But I have an empty socket on the side of the dash where the bonnet comes down, just below the clutch engage button, it has an arrow pointing to it ( I can't seem to upload any pics yet??).
Any idea what this is for, am I missing a safety switch? Its got 12v to it and if I short it a fuse blows.
Failing finding the issue I may well end up with a button start!
Any help gratefully received.
Jon
Edited by Jonnym_here on Tuesday 11th March 09:59
Jonnym_here said:
Hello
I have the Atco gt130m. I can not seem to get it started by the key. It all seems to work, I put a meter on all the safety switches I can find, checked the ignition is working and replaced the solenoid. I have a new electric clutch switch arriving today. But I have an empty socket on the side of the dash where the bonnet comes down, just below the clutch engage button, it has an arrow pointing to it ( I can't seem to upload any pics yet??).
Any idea what this is for, am I missing a safety switch? Its got 12v to it and if I short it a fuse blows.
Failing finding the issue I may well end up with a button start!
Any help gratefully received.
Jon
I think that’s a trickle charge socket and is meant to have nothing plugged into it. Have you checked if you’re getting a spark?I have the Atco gt130m. I can not seem to get it started by the key. It all seems to work, I put a meter on all the safety switches I can find, checked the ignition is working and replaced the solenoid. I have a new electric clutch switch arriving today. But I have an empty socket on the side of the dash where the bonnet comes down, just below the clutch engage button, it has an arrow pointing to it ( I can't seem to upload any pics yet??).
Any idea what this is for, am I missing a safety switch? Its got 12v to it and if I short it a fuse blows.
Failing finding the issue I may well end up with a button start!
Any help gratefully received.
Jon
Edited by Jonnym_here on Tuesday 11th March 09:59
It was the electric clutch switch, I've just replaced it. Now the lights don't work and the solenoid has burn out
!
I think the starter is on its way as it's struggling to turn the engine over, by hand it turns over as I would expect and with out the spark plug in it spins up a treat, and has spark.
My plan is to swap the solenoid and starter from my other ride on and see if that helps. Then move to the button idea.
Am I right in thinking the deck is not removable?
Thanks
Jon
!I think the starter is on its way as it's struggling to turn the engine over, by hand it turns over as I would expect and with out the spark plug in it spins up a treat, and has spark.
My plan is to swap the solenoid and starter from my other ride on and see if that helps. Then move to the button idea.
Am I right in thinking the deck is not removable?
Thanks
Jon
Edited by Jonnym_here on Tuesday 11th March 14:46
Jonnym_here said:
It was the electric clutch switch, I've just replaced it. Now the lights don't work and the solenoid has burn out!
I think the starter is on its way as it's struggling to turn the engine over, by hand it turns over as I would expect and with out the spark plug in it spins up a treat, and has spark.
My plan is to swap the solenoid and starter from my other ride on and see if that helps. Then move to the button idea.
Am I right in thinking the deck is not removable?
Thanks
Jon
It might be worth having a look at the ECU connections. Mine burned out with similar symptoms to start with. Open the bonnet and extract it from under the steering wheel - it's just clipped on with a couple of tabs. Remove the connectors and have a look at the connector pins to see if any are looking frazzled.!I think the starter is on its way as it's struggling to turn the engine over, by hand it turns over as I would expect and with out the spark plug in it spins up a treat, and has spark.
My plan is to swap the solenoid and starter from my other ride on and see if that helps. Then move to the button idea.
Am I right in thinking the deck is not removable?
Thanks
Jon
Edited by Jonnym_here on Tuesday 11th March 14:46
I have had the meter on it a few times trying to workout which relay is for which switch, and looking for burnt out bits, it all looked to be OK, which was a relief. However in the process of trying to start her up it may have suffered, so I will check again.
I've had the engine running once using starter spray by passing the solenoid. Which all sounded good. Hence thinking about the button. That said my old Westwood T1200 has been started using a screwdriver over the solenoid for 8years :biglaugh :biglaugh
Jon
I've had the engine running once using starter spray by passing the solenoid. Which all sounded good. Hence thinking about the button. That said my old Westwood T1200 has been started using a screwdriver over the solenoid for 8years :biglaugh :biglaugh
Jon
w1bbles said:
I know this is a very niche topic but I've bodged the problem. After replacing the ignition barrel (no change) and the solenoid again (no change) I managed to melt the solenoid as the coil was bouncing in and out of contact, presumably causing internal arcing. All the wiring looked good, with no poor joins and all pins clean barring the ECU connector.
I therefore reckon that the ECU is faulty but I couldn't be bothered chasing down the problem and instead fitted a manual 12v 50A push button contact. I now have a mildly PH 'Engine Start' button and the Atco seems to be at peace with itself.
I therefore reckon that the ECU is faulty but I couldn't be bothered chasing down the problem and instead fitted a manual 12v 50A push button contact. I now have a mildly PH 'Engine Start' button and the Atco seems to be at peace with itself.
I needed a new solenoid after managing to get my engine running, but I couldn't sleep knowing there was one out there with a push button start
Jon
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