uPVC window adjustment

[Tisy]

The adjustment nuts on the locking pins - does anyone know if the pin movement is done in half a turn and then returns to its original position on a full turn, or do you just keep turning them to bring the pin closer to the latch?

My windows are 2nd floot and top hinged so the pins are under the bottom ledge and obviously not visible from inside the room. After much trial and error by feel I found mine weren't actually Allen key as informed, but rather T15. I did half a turn on each pin and its noticeably reduced the gap between the seal and frame by a decent amount, but naturally I tried a few more turns on each in the hope that would bring it all in tight but hasn't actually done anything. As I say, I can't actually see what's going on but I'm getting the impression these pins are a bit like a cam lobe (poor analogy but best I can think of!) and once you turn them to the position were they are extended as far away from the latch as possible, if you turn them another half turn, they are then back at the closest point (?)

[J6542]

They are usually on a cam. If originally set in middle position. Then you only have half a turn either way of adjustment. Keeping turning them doesn t make a difference, ie a whole turn list returns to the original position.

[J6542]

[Tisy]

J6542 said:

They are usually on a cam. If originally set in middle position. Then you only have half a turn either way of adjustment. Keeping turning them doesn t make a difference, ie a whole turn list returns to the original position.

Ah! Thanks J6. That confirms my suspicions Sadly the farthest point is not bringing the window as tight as I'd like and the seal strip already appears to be one of the tallest profiles so I don't think there's any possibility for improvement there. I wonder if adjustable latch plates are a thing? I can't easily drill new holes to physically move the latch plate inwards by 5-10mm because of the proximity of the existing holes.

[Tisy]

Striker plate is the name of thing I was looking for, and it appears that you can't get adjustable ones .

Edited by Tisy on Friday 27th June 20:25

[J6542]

You can get different thickness foam tapes that you stick on the sash, that create a tighter seal against the gasket in the profile

[Tisy]

J6542 said:

You can get different thickness foam tapes that you stick on the sash, that create a tighter seal against the gasket in the profile

I've tried that already. In theory it should work great, but the reality was it ended up twisting the frame and created fresh gaps in places where there weren't any gaps before . Tried both the thin and thick stuff.

I've noticed when looking at the pin action when activating the handle to the closed position that the striker plates are actually sited too far out as the pins only go into the slots by about 5mm at a guess. Given the length of the slots on the striker plates I'm thinking I could remove them sideways by about 20mm and drill new holes and at the same time see if I can drill the holes a bit inwards too, to get them to lock tight on the cams. The potential problem is that the design of the striker plates have that middle 'leg' underneath which seems to be there purposely to wedge up against the rim of the uPVC channel to act as a brace.

[J6542]

Yes they usually sit in a set place in the profile they are usually fitted with self drilling screws. You may be able to remove the screws and then put them back in at an angle forcing the keeper back a couple of mm which may be all you need to create the tight seal.

[Tisy]

I just had a closer look and the middle 'leg' of the striker plate is actually up against the uPVC ridge on the front (window) side so isn't actually acting as a brace at all. Of course, that means it can't more inwards any further than where it is, unless I chisel away the uPVC ridge to make a gap for it. Naturally I don't fancy butchering my window frame to solve this! I've had a look at the window striker plates on google images and they all appear to be pretty universal in design. Could do with like a 1-2mm thick metal shim to slide into the striker plate slot but can't think of anything small enough and would need to be angled at the open end to guide the pin in otherwise it would just jam.